Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Poplar is a hardwood, but I know what you mean, its at the softer end 😀
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Did you check black/white oil pump and that everything is consistent? Just try regular more expensive bar oil as an experiment (after cleaning and flushing everything out) you are wasting money on replacement worm gears anyway, plus the lack of oil won't be good for your bar nose sprocket.
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To be fair the original post was a bit of a ramble with two questions. It doesn't matter anyway, because the OP seems to have vanished anyway. Checking the land registry would be an obvious first step.
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Ive used a lot of bar oils, they are pretty much the same, and tou can get them all to work - if you have an adjustable oiler and can turn the output up or thin a thick oil with solvent. Im a big fan of heavy oiling. The main difference between aspen and motomix is the motonix bottle spills everywhere when poured!! I decant it into an aspen bottle. Will a bit of maths, you can easily add two stroke oil to take motomix from 50:1 to 32:1, if thats what tickles your fancy.
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Did you feel younger afterwards?
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My mower survived other than a blown fuse, so check that.
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No they are interchangeable, its a 30 year old Bolens.
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I recently put a battery in a ride on mower the wrong way round. The starter motor span the wrong way and wouldnt engage with the flywheel. I took off several covers and bolts then cleaned the terminals before I realised! i told myself the mower and under the battery needed a clean out anyway, regreased the steering mechanism, clean battery terminals - definitely worth it!
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Thats a fair price, hold your ground. Also replacing bearings properly or leaks in the case are fairly high skill repairs.
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I've had a few. I seem to get 5 years out of them before a non economic repair comes along. I'm in two minds - yes I like keeping 'professional' saws going but, when new they cost five times as much and after 5 years start needing money spent on parts. Yet you can get a basic Stihl for £150.
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Also bags get damaged pretty quickly if you drop logs from a processor into them! Ive used various home made wooden frames and chutes to help.
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The weird thing is the OP said they have replaced the pump last week, so it wont have had time to fail or block up? Are all replacement parts OEM and with part numbers that match those listed as compatible in the manual? As above has there been a mix up. Before you fitted the pump was it easy to turn manually?
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Or a blocked oil tank vent?
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A few months ago I moved two ornamental maples. They are about 20 years old and about 1 foot in diameter. We used a 16 tonne digger to dig out each root ball and hoisting them up with chains and straps and into a logic quad trailer. I pulled them off the quad with a tractor. The trailer nearly collapsed and one of the tyres burst. What a pallava, I can't conceive of how anyone would attempt such a thing for a tree that must be 10/20 times heavier?
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great idea. I was in hospital recently (all fine) and you should have seen the kit that I rescued from being thrown into the bin. I got a variety of syringes up to 600m that I thought might be useful for emptying fuel tanks plus some long reach forceps that will be great for fishing out fuel filters !
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Using a Stihl 2 in 1 file has the rakers set too low
Muddy42 replied to KeenButGreen's topic in Chainsaws
Stihl 2 in 1s need to be used level and not tilted. Maybe you were tilting the file onto the rakers? But this is one of the reasons I don't like 2 in 1s. Sometimes the rakers get to low sometimes too high. Plus they stop you from seeing what's going on. Buy a flat file and a raker guage specific to your chain. Stihl do a complete set with round files too. You can use that chain for round file practice and if you take a few mm off with a round file, the teeth will be proportionate to the rakers again. Watch a lot of youtube. -
Ah Im with you. Id definitely try and glue that. Preparation is important, remove as much as possible, probably that brake band and the brake housing cover. Also Id try and clean from the oil tank side. Flush the oil tank out with solvent or petrol and then refill with solvent leaving the saw clutch side down to drip through the hole. Empty petrol, clean and dry for a few days. Rough up the surrounding plastic with sandpaper to accept the epoxy.
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I think I've found a leak in the bar oil vent. I ran it without the bar with mixed fuel instead of bar oil. It was spewing out.
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or check the manual.
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Im not sure what you mean by the "middle"? In these situations, extensive youtube learning is helpful. Like this:
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Any chance of a photo from further back, hard to tell what we are looking at?
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When replacing only springs, sometimes string can help. Get the clutch secured down somehow and get a piece of string tied around each end of the spring and pull apart. Same in reverse with the new spring.
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So I replaced the #31 plate. Interestingly the replacement from L&S Engineers was thicker than the original one. This definitely seals better with less visible gaps. Frustratingly the results were mixed - initially it seemed to be oiling better, but then the oil dried up again. I'm going to repeat everything again - clean out oil tank, hoses, oil filter, oil pump, run solvent through it. Check bar oil vent. I will check this when I have the clutch off. Thanks thanks
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When wood dries it might half in weight but it won't half in volume. I think that's where you have gone wrong. I use bags and IBCs. I'd advise buying way more bags than you think you'll need. Bags rip and break a lot especially if you filling them mechanically. Yes the wood won't dry well in bags, if thats what you are intending.
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Large section of oak to mill (any one interested)
Muddy42 replied to Thesnarlingbadger's topic in Panther Mill UK
I can't see that having any (net) commercial value.
