Muddy42

I havn't used stovax, but have used three other 'eco design' stoves that have been utter s**** - hard to light and smokey. Ive posted on this topic here before. The problem (as I see it) is that these stoves are designed to divert/restrict exhaust so it recirculates and re-burns the gases within the stove repeatedly. These is also less control of air going in. These stoves need very exact operating conditions - airflow in the room, flue length/straightness/temperature. They may work fine in a new airtight house (that is warm already) with a perfectly straight/lined and insulated flue, but conditions in older properties are much more variable. Give me big old Charnwood or Clearview anyday. These stoves have massive air intakes that can make them roar like a steam train on lighting. Yes more heat goes up the chimney and you use more wood, but it doesn't smoke into the room.

The small bark stuff sounds great for lighting fires.

wouldn't long thin lengths be ideal for turning into wood chip for someones biomass boiler? Or do you not have enough volume?

wouldn't long thin lengths be ideal for turning into wood chip for someones biomass boiler?

Ive heard the Sherpas and ASs are good. The Grillo looks like an Iseki, maybe the Grillo is a knock off. Ive just managed to raise the deck a bit on the Grillo, by moving a 'shut off' so the blades can turn in the travel position. The highest standard height setting was 90cm, which was too high and I was hitting too much and digging into the soil.

So I have put a few hours on the Grillo. It cuts great. It doesn't clog and stall like the Bolens did (which I was really asking too much of it to become a rough cut mower). It just smashes through everything, rocks and stumps included. I like the simplicity of being able to remove and sharpen the blade tips. - It needs choke to start even when warm, so I think some carb cleaning might be helpful. - I'm going to raise the deck a bit. I'm hitting too much even on the highest setting.

and pull the bit out regularly to release the chips and sap.

Personally What gear did your father have? Personally I wouldn't think it was a viable business now without a tractor/ forwarder, large log processor, a loader and room to dry >1000 crates (some of it can be outside, some under cover.

Thanks Eric. Ive also bought a second hand Grillo Climber 9.22. My thinking was this had the largest engine without being 4WD. 4WD would have been nice, but these are more expensive and there are more parts to go wrong. I havn't felt I have needed the extra traction in the past, but maybe I will regret this. For some reason the tyres have been shifted from tractor tyres to turf tyres, so I will probably return it to aggressive tractor tyres that will help with the traction. Regarding your electrical issues, you might try a 'contact spray' to control the oxidization - the kind that you use to protect trailer electrics? Alternatively I have bypassed all the safety systems in various mowers. I haven't looked at the Grillo's electrics yet, but normally you have one circuit running to the ignition key that needs to be closed by the various safety switches to work. Normally the safety circuit is a different colour from the black/red of the earth/positive - yellow or blue. A bit of continuity testing with an electrical tester will normally work this out. Let me know if you want me to figure out how the safety switches work on mine?

Thanks. Yes the others have newer B&S engines which I understand are not perfect. Brushcutters or rough cut mowers have thicker blades, off road tyres, do not collect and are generally built to take more abuse.

Does that brass metal vent thing work? meaning does it allow air in and stop (too much) fuel escaping. It depends how precious you want to be, but its just an air vent, you could try gluing that fibrous thing back in. Clean everything with narrow wire and carb cleaner.

I have but the thing is I wouldn't use it "for anything else" just mowing.

Castle no. Its an old market garden, where they used to sell plants, fruit and veg. Flat varied ground but very fertile alluvial soil so the grass and weeds grow like stink. I also do paid work for a few people who can no longer maintain their gardens or use a chainsaw - so think of knee high grass with buried obstacles. I like fixing older machines and keeping them going.

So my ancient Bolens ride on has finally had to be retired with a cloud of issues - camshaft, gasket leaks, clutch, rust, broken spindles. I am looking for people's experience with the various ride on brushcutters out there. They all seam remarkably similar. Generally I am looking at the model with the largest engine in the range that is not 4WD. I could get 4WD if second hand, but the new 4WD ones seem to be more expensive. On the face of it 4WD would mean a few more parts to go wrong. - Orec Rabbit RM952 - Grillo Climber 9.22 - Etesia Attila 98 Budget of £5k if second hand. The new ones are about £10k. I'm not adverse to new either. And before anyone else suggests alternatives, I have an ATV flail mower for the really rough stuff, 50cc strimmer and a normal collecting rotary mower for lawns. This is for quite specific applications, tight access and under orchard trees. Thanks in advance.

Purge bulbs can look bad from the outside, but inside they are fine. I'd just disconnect the pipe that returns to the carb and pump fuel through it for a while. Then run. Check everything for cracks and air leaks.

Purge bulbs are pretty easy to replace, just make sure you get the lines back in the right order. Regarding the bar oil leak, to see if all parts are there, you are best to check the assembly diagram online for your model of saw. Also get the saw and bar spotlessly clean and check that the face plate is flat and sealing properly. Confirm its the right type of bar and correct number of chain links for the bar. Also check that the bar oil holes line up - a good technique is to make paper or cardboard copies of the bar

Sorry I am not quite sure what you have replaced already? Have you bought OEM part number 1129 350 5850 "Tank Vent for Stihl 020T, 020" (photo below)? Buy this and everything should become clear. This part comes as three separate parts, which get combined and fitted together. Your top photo looks like the middle metal part of 1129 350 585. Your next photo looks like the innards for the plastic part on the left of the photo for 1129 350 585.

As above, flush out the tank a few times, pump the purge bulb if there is one and run it until the smoke clears. Then Id maybe check the plug is clean.

Thant will definitely help. I tested that with a temporary ethernet cable first - you can also get flat cables that are easier to fit under closed windows and doors etc. The temporary cable worked fine for ages, but I did eventually dig permanent cables round the house and drilled through the walls.

Thanks for the warning! I'll find a way to do this safely with the blade on. Yes I think that's all ok Pinions clean and lubed up. The cable is free and engaging the drive. What's odd is that one wheel drives and one doesn't. When I say one wheel doesn't work, this is even if you lift the mower off the ground. The one that works appears to have most wear to the pinions. Does each side of the gearbox work independently or is it a solid axle all the way across?

Personally I don't think its tuning. I wouldn't have thought the high jet had anything to do with starting, that's just for peak revs and your approach to low jet tuning seems fine. Its just vapour lock or fuel getting hot and bunging up the carb. I don't have any magic soluiton. Keep fuel in a cool place or out of the shade. Open the fuel cap and pour out any remaining fuel before starting. Put saw in the shade for a few mins. Take a break and sharpen your saw.

Thanks. I was thinking of doing more something along that lines - more comprehensive diagnosis and getting closer to the drive. For safety, I was thinking of taking the blade off and raising the mower up on a fish crate or something similar. I could even turn the belt by hand with the engine off.

Its a shame redline is about five times the price of most other decent oils ! Anyway I need to do some research on this stuff. Thanks

Same. Neat petrol goes in either jerry cans or rectangular 5l petrol cans. Mix goes into either the combi can or reused aspen bottles for the strimmer.

Ive been using red Oregon two stroke oil for the last three years at 40:1. No engine failures yet! Please note I havn't taken any apart any engines that have used it, which would be the best way to confirm its quality and check the big end, however I've inspected several pistons with a torch and they look good. Jaso D rating (highest rating). Oregon 2T Stroke Oil | Sorbus International Ltd. WWW.SORBUS-INTL.CO.UK Oregon 2 stroke Oil, A high level of lubrication, and specially developed additive technology, provide the highest level of performance and improves engine life.