Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Don't worry I will.👍 Its currently one of these filters, fine metal gauze with a blue sponge inside, both parts washable in soapy water. If I can get it to seal properly now, I will replace like-for like.
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I know £100 just feels a bit much after what Ive already spent on it. This thread prompted me to clean the air filter and try and fix it. I found that the mesh insert was out of shape and preventing a proper seal at the bottom. I also temporarily patched a hole in the metal filter with epoxy. I'll see if this stops fine dust entering and then replace both filters.
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I have a 460 that let in fine sawdust aswell even with the foam insert. I keep meaning to try and punch out a gasket with an old air filter. Let me know if you find a solution. Otherwise its an awesome size of saw that I find useful for felling and larger diameter wood. I found the bar oiling very stingy so I upgraded it to high output oiler. I got the saw wreaked so installed a meteor piston and cylinder. It also had the carb symptoms you describe - fixed with a carb kit. Honestly the time and money I have spent on this saw is extreme!
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Wasn't it also that they couldn't get the classic boxy shape to pass modern standards around crumple zones and hitting pedestrians? I can believe this because I have been in two minor accidents in a landrover (passenger not driver, icy roads etc) where the other car was a right off and the landrover didn't have a scratch.
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just found this: Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM Google Search WWW.GOOGLE.COM
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take the head off and clean everything, it should be pretty obvious if the valve isn't seating properly. you could then use lapping compound.
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and clean with acetone and a cotton bud.
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Agreed that sounds fine. Run through the other checks and let us know. Not idling or surging are classic symptoms of an air leak somewhere.
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there could be so many things going on here that need investigating. As every poster has said above, its not about the fuel so dont change back to E10. In order I would: - you have raised the question of compression. Thats easily checked by hanging the saw from the starter rope (it should hang and only move down slowly) or looking for piston scoring. - clean saw and take out carb. Bend all the lines and look to brittleness or cracks.If you are in any doubt (given its been ran on E10 and you intend to use aspen) replace. - replace fuel filter, install a carb kit and reset autotune. - if this doesnt work, you are into the more major stuff of checking for air leaks and replacing the solenoid. autune saws are still relatively simple. The autotune can adjust for an airleak to a certain extent, thats why problems seem to suddenly appear when it reaches the limit of its adjustment.
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As above its the switch from pump fuel that shows this up. In other respects i find autotine 261s very easy to start and forgiving. Also being a 2015 saw it could have other issues, not idling well could mean it has an air leak. Its worth checking the rubbers and a pressure and vacuum test.
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Yes to all of the above, remove dead or crossing branches plus do the reduction over a few years. The only other thing is have a mind towards making it easier to pick the apples and bring the fruit down to safe ladder height. Pruning apple trees is pretty personal. As well as the pruning described above, I'd maybe just cut back one or two of the big trunks per year. I'm on year three of doing exactly this to two Bramleys apple trees. The trees have survived, yes fruiting has reduced because you don't get apples on new growth, but I don't mind that.
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What’s this interesting material coming out of my stove?
Muddy42 replied to Mr. Ed's topic in Firewood forum
When you say recent install, was a new full steel liner used? If so this becomes a fully sealed steel unit where its impossible for foreign objects to get in. A DIY-er or cowboy might snag or break the liner, but that's pretty unlikely. Tell your wife to stop burning chickens! The moisture and fat will cool the flames and produce a horrendous creosote which will damage or shorten the life of your stove. Also the smell outside must be horrendous! -
OK thanks I understand now. If its squirting only when the chain is moving, my guess would be there is nothing wrong here just excess oiling, which you could turn down. or oil is too thin. But always worth checking. Sometimes the bar or faceplate can get dirty or dented allowing oil to leak out in strange places. Normally though oil would just leak downwards to the chain catcher area You can make a paper copy of your bar to check the alignment of the bar hole? You could run the saw gently without the bar off to see where oil emerges from the body of the saw. The risk is that the clutch flies off, so I do this outside, pointing in a safe direction and after the saw is warm so it doesn't require much revs.
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Can you clarify what you mean by oil squirting "from the bar mount area, directly to the exhaust"? For me the bar mount area is on the side of the saw and the exhaust is behind this. Oil should stay on the bar mount side and it shouldn't be possible for bar oil to squirt onto the exhaust.
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Thread revival / update! So by chance I managed to find a second hand high output oiler (part number 11286403250). This is sometimes called a 1:1 oiler, meaning it uses 1 tank of oil to 1 tank of fuel rather than about 0.8 of an oil tank. I used the saw for a few hours yesterday and I can confirm this was how much oil it was using. I am a bit cautious about letting it run out of fuel/oil totally, for obvious reasons, but the saw was oiling even better. It seems really odd that this saw needs extra oil for a 20 inch bar, but if thats what it takes to avoid the bar nose seizing up, I dont mind.
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I've done a few helicoils and they have lasted fine. I use cheap taps but I go slow, use lube and lots of reversing to manage the swarf. On that check for metal swarf in the cylinder, cotton buds work well for picking it up.
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Im not technical but a friend of mine got decent wifi this way and he had poor mobile 4g at his house. I don't think you need line of sight to an antenna. Id expect the wifi provider to do a desktop survey and maybe come out to your house to make sure it'll work.
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Have you considered having a 4G / 5G receiver on your house, that then provides your house with wifi and a landline. These receivers can pick up 4G signal where your mobile can't because they are stronger, higher up and point towards the source (if that makes sense). It'll be cheaper than Starlink and avoids giving money to Elon Muskrat.
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If I'm feeling depressed, I cheer myself up by looking at garage forecourt kindling pricing. Makes me feel like a millionaire.
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sounds a bit much. Fruit trees like slightly acidic soil. How much is a stove pan - 2 or 3 kilos? I give fruit trees a spade full a year. but who knows. Very difficult to prove what is too much.
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p.s. wood ash is an easy, cheap and often readily available source of alkali, plus other nutrients. The soil around me is a bit acidic so I add some to the soil whenever I plant anything and thereafter occasionally dump a scoop at the base of smaller trees I'm growing.
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You could try digging a hole bigger than you need and planting the tree inside a carboard box of your desired soil. Trim the cardboard to soil level and soon you wont notice its there and eventually it rots. Once the root ball gets through the cardboard it will be big enough to cope with poor soil.
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Denmark has just ended its general postal service and personally I think we consider doing the same. The labour force is over-unionised and an inefficient throw back to the 1960s. The use of private letters is in decline and government / NHS should be forced to digitize. 90% of the physical mail I get is junk mail and a large proportion is a duplication of email. There are other ways to deliver the financial services and banking than through a post office branch. Sorry if this sounds harsh. For parcels, competition is great, but some days you get evri, parcel force, DPD all delivering separately and blocking up the roads - there must be a way to co-ordinate this.
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Agreed I think those are the standard US connectors (SAE) so should be very compatible.
