Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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Agreed I think those are the standard US connectors (SAE) so should be very compatible.
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i think thats only on the more expensive noco chargers. Its good to hear you have found this works.
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Agreed I have a 2amp Noco charger. It charges everything from a quad to a tractor battery (this just takes longer, just ignore the % charged dial and keep going). I like the fact that as standard they come with a leads that can easily be used with crocodile clips or connected permanently to the battery as a trickle charger. The downside is that they are a bit "smart" and can sometimes refuse to charge older or heavily de-charged batteries. As above I might just buy a couple more 1amp noco chargers and use them as trickle chargers. I'm after a new jump pack. I have an ancient one made by RAC that won't hold charge more than a few hours, although you can charge it from a cigarette lighter which is a great when you are on the way to rescue someone!
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bring it inside and it should recover, cold kills batteries. thanks but I don't think I'll try a solar charger. The shed is in a shaded spot and I'm skeptical that it would get enough sun! I want to extend the electricity to the shed anyway to run other tools etc.
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Thanks will do. It would help if some manufacturers didn't hide their batteries so well. I need to remove 6 awkward bolts and the bumper (!) to get at the battery on the Grillo climber under the fuel tank/bonnet. I'm going to attach some permanent battery leads to make trickle charging easier.
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So I went to service various engines and mowers and both had dead batteries. This made me think about trickle charging them over the winter. I have been doing this to the quad and its been revolutionary, especially in this cold weather. I would need to bring electric to the shed, which is something I was planning to do anyway. I can see that you can buy dual trickle chargers (which clip onto two batteries at once) but these are expensive. I have an existing 1 amp noco smart charger. I was wondering about charging both batteries individually then connecting them in parallel and attaching the trickle charger. Has anyone done this successfully? or I could just buy another 1 amp trickle charger or two to give me a spare for other 12v batteries.
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compression is a peak value, so you could still have a ring leak or a stuck valve etc. even the oil itself can contribute to the compression.
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Yes, there are a few things that could go cause excess fuel when you cleaned out the carb, or reassembled the choke or governor. BUT I would have thought a carb fuel issue would affect both cylinders equally. I would try soaking the piston. If all else fails, replacing the engine will require removal anyway, so you might aswell give this a go and tackle the crankcase side. It takes time, but technically is not that difficult. Just remember the order that everything goes in and the timing marks.
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I am definitely no expert, but I did successfully rebuild my first B&S v twin last summer. I am a bit unclear about what you have been doing. You but you can strip down a v twin from two directions: 1. underneath the engine you can remove the single crankcase cover. this accesses a large area of sump, oil and the single camshaft, compression release, timed cogs etc. 2. Behind each of the two cylinders. Taking off the two valve covers accesses the valves and rockers etc. Then you can again go behind each of these to get to each of the two heads and pistons where the combustion happens. which route have you taken?
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I am so confused by this thread! Sometimes my 120cc Stihl 088 struggles to mill knotty hardwood with a 36 inch bar and goes slow. A 65cc husky, all battery saws and any mains electric chainsaw will not pull a conventional 36 inch chainsaw bar. Bandsaw-type sawmills work with smaller motors because the bar is narrower.
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bummer. Assuming you are not using the mower anytime soon, why not try soaking the pistons, which might free up stuck rings? You can try various light oils sea foam or even petrol itself. squirt fluid through the spark plug holes, soak, rotate, suck out the fluid, repeat with another mystery oil, etc.
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Stihl MSA200c battery charging issue after inactivity.
Muddy42 replied to Fatboy2017's topic in Chainsaws
Its my eyesight that is the limiting factor with 1/4" chain! -
Stihl MSA200c battery charging issue after inactivity.
Muddy42 replied to Fatboy2017's topic in Chainsaws
Personally I thing you need two chargers for 12v batteries. - A small smart charger 1 to 5A to trickle charge and top up relatively healthy batteries. - For big 12v batteries (tractors etc.) or really depleted batteries you need an old fashioned large capacity non-smart charger. Mine is so old I can't read the label to see what the amperage is anymore, but it really wakes up old batteries. but I try not to leave it on for too long. -
Stihl MSA200c battery charging issue after inactivity.
Muddy42 replied to Fatboy2017's topic in Chainsaws
Was the battery left outside or very cold by any chance? Maybe try bringing into the warmth for a while before charging. -
not jesting but its difficult to prove either way unless you can time travel? Lifespan depends on hours of use, style of use, maintenance and a bit of chance. I used to just go for pro saws but even they can fail. Ive recently realised that there is value in having a small cheap saw as part of the collection. I can lend it out and if it fails it doesnt matter as much. I too had a 028 that lasted 20 years until there was an issue with the crank and seals, and an 088 that is still going but I think larger engines always tend to last longer. Im not convinced today’s MS saws are as tough as the 0-somethings , but we’ll see. My piston is already a bit scored after 3 years and Ive had to replace a lot of parts.
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More power but also more weight. If you are only cutting small stuff, 35cc is ideal. also will it last 5 times as long? i have owned both. The 161 lasted 5 years, im not sure my 261 will last 25 years.
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I find the professional versus consumer saw debate is a tricky one. If just looking at price when new say a Stihl MS162 is £160 versus a Stihl MS261 at £850 (professional saw). You could buy 5 of them for the same price. If you are not good at maintenance, replacing parts and/or wreak a consumer saw, there is a lot less to cry about.
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i'll give it a miss then. Nothing drives me mad than proprietary equipment that you can't work on. New cars and dealer only stuff but also I lived in a house for a while where the previous owners burglar alarm company refused to give me the admin code and tried to put me on an annual contract just for changing batteries and vacuuming dust out of the sensors. I won in the end, the previous owner was under contract not me.
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I prefer putting a carb kit in a genuine carbs to non-genuine replacement. You could try that. Does the tunning change when you tilt the machine in different positions? That and erratic revving could be an air leak. I'd P&V test.
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Not sure, it made no sense. I immediately modified it. Maybe everything was meant to be held in the supplied vice?
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There is no right or wrong answer with bar lengths but that sounds a bit extreme. I can't remember if the 365 is 65 or 70 is CC, but the old rule of dividing the cc by 3 is about right, which would be 23, so it sounds like you are already pushing it at 28 inches. Personally for a 36 inch bar id go for a 90 or 120 cc saw. Also unless you are milling, there are very few situations in the UK where 36 inch bars are essential. If you are milling, this is even tougher for the saw and I would still to a 120 cc saw for a 36 inch bar.
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I bought a cheap KATSU Bench Drill Press recently that seemed to have two ON buttons, one of which you needed to keep pressed, so two handed operation. Its now permanently cable tied on.
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Yes I've often wondered about CHP. Are these things properly serviceable to an enthusiastic DIY-er? One of things I like about simpler burners like ecoangus is you can take the whole thing apart - turbulators, fans, firebricks, pump etc.
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Looks amazing. I burn way more than that already. I mostly store in lengths and then have a few days with a log processor each summer.
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Sounds amazing! Id love to have one of those. Maybe when I downsize houses. I think this fear of slumbering, or cold water cooling the boiler, low stove efficiency etc is way too narrow a frame of reference. Your experience shows you can burn the stove hot and clean. Plus you are saving on heating oil/gas/electric.
