Muddy42

You are right to watch out for sharks like woodlands.co.uk Sometimes the ownership rights these people offer is very sketchy and your "plot" is in the middle of a much larger woodland block with no access. The price can vary hugely - £10k an acre used to be the rule, but commercial blocks or planning potential can boost the price. Plus proximity to towns and wealthy areas and good access will boost the amenity value for people like you. I think technically there is a limit on the number of night for a private campsite (60 days?) which should be plenty. It would be unusual but check for a restrictive covenant against overnight stays. There is a lot of discretionary costs that you can make - pruning, thinning, replanting etc. Compulsory costs would probably be limited to fencing and branches falling through fences, especially where the neighbours are livestock farmers. If access is shared there may be road repair costs. If the woodland is part of a grant scheme or accreditation, this will come with conditions. You'd want public liability insurance.

Thats what I think yes - speed and torque. The extra friction caused by pulling the chain round the extra 2 inches out and 2 inches on the return. Plus Im sure there are other factors. Heavier chain. Chain tension generally increases with longer bars to keep the chain tight, so more friction on the tip.

Also is the cable routing slack enough to handle going round corners? but not too slack that it catches on things?

If you have a multimeter, remove and test the glow plugs for resistance. Id check the fuel filter first and maybe flush it with solvent. If it needs replacing, whack a hole through it temporarily with a screw driver and carry on testing while you wait for a replacement. if you disconnect the fuel lines at various points, you should get decent squirts when you the engine is turned over.

Have you tested voltage and load on the battery? Are the battery connections clean? have you bled the fuel system to see if air is getting in or if fuel is reaching the injectors? Replace fuel filters? Id ohm test the glow plugs to see if they are working (should be low resistance). I presume you are pre-heating the glow plugs?

Its slow growing and dense, so lots of energy per volume. Its a great firewood once dry. However to your question, it doesn't split or dry quickly.

Great. Personally having used a few pro battery saws, I don't find them equivalent in power to a 50cc petrol saw, in spite of the fact this is what they claim.

50 cc saw (stihl ms261) and 13 inch bar for most of the work I do - storm clearance. 70cc for felling larger trees, logging or when I get the first saw stuck! 120cc for blocking up "unsplittable" logs on the ground

Hot fire or not, every stove manual ever written will tell you not to burn wet wood. A neighbour of mine managed to totally block his new cowl and flue in one season, requiring replacement at some cost. Chimney fires can destroy your flue liner, chimney pot etc or even worse case burn your house down. Its simply not worth gambling here!

Gabriel, You'd be amazed but yes my Esse stove smokes back into the room when lighting, refilling or when the stove is dying down. I have tried every trick in the book over three years, but its not really helped. Its an old drafty house with a cold flue and flue downdraft problems. Older non ecodesign stoves have massive air intakes and quickly send masses of heat up the chimney and continue to send lots of heat up the chimney (so called "inefficiency") so that this is never an issue. Defra, Hetas and european test standards have designed Ecodesign for a more "efficient" burn, better air quality but a lower flue temperature. But this only works in perfect lab conditions or a modern house that is warm anyway. Its a great business for stove installers with the need for more scafolding, insulation beads and anti downdraft cowls. But I also think the stove design doesn't help. It doesn't have enough potential air intake and the airwash and door are too close to the top of the stove. Its far too easy for smoke to spill out during lighting. I'm going to replace the stove soon.

I had the same problem with my one handed Makita DUC150 chainsaw. As above, I have sharpened the teeth until the gap to the rakers about 50% of how it started, about 10 thousandths now.

Air should come through the carb outlet pipe. If you think about it that's what the purge bulb does, suck fuel from the carb so it gets replaced with fresh fuel. You should not be able to blow back into the carb through the outlet valve. Are you 100% sure the fuel pump side of the carb is oriented correctly (valves next to the metal of the carb then gasket) and that the metering diaphram is not upside down? Is the needle valve seating properly?

I've always thought one of these would be fun. You light a fire under a stone floor, once going the smoke and heat travels through a system of tunnels under the floor to a chimney on the far side. You can have one burn in the morning and the house stays warm all day. Its a more efficient version of the roman Hypocaust, still in use and called a gloria in Spain.

thanks. Just to be clear on the liner, it sounds like you just have a short section of metal liner poked up the chimney and then its original clay liner thereafter to the top? Is that right? A friend has a stove like that and Ive helped them clean it. It wasn't very dirty. Its old school, and no doubt the safety police will jump up and down but seems to work ok. That's my issue with modern stoves. The old ones were simple fires in a box that would cope with a wide range of flue drafts and conditions. Lots or air in/outflow would overcome any cold air in the flue very quickly. Modern ecodesign stoves need the conditions of the flue to be just right - lined the whole way to the top, flue insulation, potentially an anti-downdraft cowl to correct for the stoves inadequacies at £300+VAT. Its all great for the stove installing industry! James at Clearview has written extensively on this topic and performed some side-by-side tests: ECO DESIGN ISSUES AND FEEDBACK | Clearview Stoves WWW.CLEARVIEWSTOVES.COM

it does look good. The problem with my Esse1 is the door and air wash are too close to the top of the stove, causing it to smoke when first lit. Part of the new ecodesign nonesense. Whats the point of a stove that makes the outside air cleaner but causes indoor air pollution? i’ll probably replace it when the right second hand 5 inch flue stove comes up.

As above are you sure the primer is connected the right way? Its short line from (normally the top of the) carb, long line returning to the fuel tank. The fuel line goes from the fuel tank to the bottom of the carb. If the lines are clear, you should see where the bubbles start from? Are you sure the carb was assembled in the correct way? If any of the diaphragms ripped, it could benefit from a carb kit. You can pressure test a carb, but do it gently to avoid breaking stuff. You don't need a pressure tester for this, if you blow with your mouth on the fuel line you get an idea if the pressure is dropping.

Chainsaw? I only use that for storm clearance. The majority of my firewood gets stored as lengths then in June every I process it with a hired grab and a 12 tonne splitter with conveyor belt. I burn the splitter offcuts and sawdust myself. The only manual handling is carrying it to the stove from the grain sack. I cant think of anything worse than briquettes - packaged, expensive, unnatural and un cosy.

I'm from a different end of the country, but I'd try local sawmills, firewood suppliers or timber haulage companies. Scope out anywhere where trees are being felled, sometimes they will have a half load or some types of poorer grade timber that the sawmill doesn't want. If the wood is green, technically it needs to be delivered with a statutory notice on how to store and dry it.

The ceramic tile stove sounds amazing! I'm afraid I cant think of anything worse than wood briquettes- all that processing, packaging and the cost. I'm very luck to have the space and time to enjoy making firewood. This is a great read: Norwegian Wood: Chopping, Stacking, and Drying Wood the Scandinavian Way

Some people disagree with this, but personally I like a combination of outdoor and indoor seasoning. The weathering (rain, sun and wind) effect is always stronger outside. Then you bring it inside for the final few months. By the time is ready, I can barely tell what species it is.

A worn sprocket can cause symptoms like this.

Scottish land ownership is pretty murky. Its much harder to work out who owns land, there are a lots of murky community ownership tenures around, the owners can hide bheind companys, trusts or nominees and far more of it is not on a modern map-based registration system. Are worried about trees falling on houses or roads? I think you have a two options. - Pay a solicitor that specialises in land ownership to work out who the owner is. - pay for a tree survey to give to the council or discuss with your house insurers

OK. ffs the price has gone up in the past two years. this is what I have and I would recommend it. Mityvac Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit MV8500 646541004116 | eBay UK WWW.EBAY.CO.UK All images shown are for illustration purpose only. Silverline Vac/Pres Metal Pump Kit. just make sure you get one that does vacuum as well as pressure. Mityvac do a similar pressure only tester that I bought by accident first time round.

I have a mityvac which costs about £80. Yes these testers have a huge range of uses aside from p&v in two and four strokes. I prefer a separate gauge for compression testing. Also bleeding brakes, finding leaks, draining fluids, draining old engine oil, unblocking central heating oil pipes - just some of the uses I have put mine too

OK, as above my guess is the trigger sensor. But, I still don't think you can rule out an air leak until you have p&v tested the fuel lines, carb and cylinder. My understanding is that autotune can mask problems and compensate the fuel mix so the saw doesn't blow up as quickly as old saws did. Also I find spraying carb cleaner at a saw doesn't always reveal problems. You could roll the dice and DIY replace the sensor at £40 if the alternative was the labour of a repair person.