Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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I remember that!
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The hammers are tougher and better for thick stuff, the Y flails are better for grass.
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We've had the same delivery company for years and they have never raised any concerns. But as part of my work I will make the tank look a bit smarter - new sight guage, clean up the cap and a bit of paint.
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Im pretty sure the tank is set up correctly as you describe. It just hasnt been cleaned for 40 years and probably has water in it.
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Not sure to be honest. The stuff in my heating oil tank is slightly yellow. Recently the boiler has been running badly, filters get clogged up with a black slimey stuff and I ejected a massive plug of the same cr@p out of the oil line. when Ive got the tank a bit emptier, im going to empty it and flush it out. Its a very old metal tank, that we’re not aware of ever being emptied. It sits under cover, but water might have got in when the roof had a leak recently.
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I have only had problems with machines left outside and used infrequently. Ive had no problems since I got a bigger shed and I try to periodically run tanks empty and flush them out with petrol and leave to evaporate. seems to work but Im not an expert. i now suspect my heating oil has a bug (kerosene) so Im going to flush it out soon.
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Not a combi but I use these Oregon 5l containers, pours well straight from the can and refillable. No spouts or funnels required.
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It depends! If I was to spend over a grand on a saw Id expect it to last more than ten years and to always have a resale value. I might use my 50cc saws all day, but the bigger ones only get used for a few cuts and are only carried from the truck, so I really don't care about the weight.
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I can see the stump you removed. Are you sure they are not talking about the other stump as well that you didn't remove, shown closer to the path in your photo?
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Trust in government is at an all time low at a time when the size of the 'government' is at an all time high. Government spending is now over 50% of GDP (when you account for PFI), a lot of which is to the benefit of retirees (health, elderly care, pensions) paid for by fewer workers and a dire education system for the very young. We have more layers of politicians (MEPs, MSPs, MPs, mayors, regional assemblies), more and more public servants with their gold plated pensions. Personally I think we need a fundamental rethink about the size of government, its purpose and what it can achieve.
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Interesting. I've heard rave reviews about the MS400. Personally I've always been a fan of 50cc saws for light work, so 65-ish cc saws never felt enough of a step up.
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I stand what I said before something doesn't seem right here or different parts have been used. Regarding fuel lines they normally perish long before any damage. Were the fuel lines replaced with generic pipe of a wider diameter maybe? Did the extra insulation fix the dying issue?
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Lucky you, its amazing wood with a fine grain that feels like ivory and takes a thread well. I process and store my own. Generally people use it for small stuff - tool handles, pens, knife handles, small boxes etc. so Id just store as large logs. I don't find it splits much and the bark protects the wood well, Id just spray the ends.
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Interesting, you certainly seem to be chasing new problems around this saw! Is this a wind up? Firstly, the cylinder metal is harder than the spark plug cable, so that metal damage is caused by something else. Incidentally is this an aftermarket cylinder or original? If the parts are original, you should not need to consider removing metal to get the cable to fit. Something is not right here. Is there any text or markings on the cylinder? Could this saw be a mishmash of parts. If the cylinder matches and the tape causes the issue to go away, replace the cable (it must have been shorting to the cylinder) and just make sure you always route the cable correctly in future. Maybe once the cable was mis-routed causing this damage.
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not necessarily, one of my saws is really badly scored but has compression and starts fine. Id isolate the kill switch next as above.
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Yes that sounds slightly different from your original explanation. - Can you examine the kill switch for issues with the cover off? A small bit of metal may be bent out of place. - Can you the disconnect the master switch and start the saw? When you do this, obviously take care and you need to block the air intake to kill the saw afterwards. I wouldn't expect a lose electrical connection issue to only happen when the saw is hot - vibrations and movement would have a more immediate effect. When you replaced the cylinder gasket, you should have pressure and vac tested the saw. If you the electrical tests above fail, I would check all of the rubber parts (inlet boot, fuel line, impulse line) then pressure and vac test the whole cylinder. Also while you are at it check the piston isn't scored. Air leaks can manifest themselves in weird ways and this is the only way to be sure. I would do this test before spending money on an old saw.
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Annual always for me, but my vehicles are older. I might be wrong, but I'm not sure the computers can tell when there has been an oil and filter change. So if you don't reset anything and get a garage to do the recommended less frequent services, how can your warranty can be affected?
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Presumably, looking at this from the top and/or bottom of your picture, the bung would be round? If so you need someone with a fairly large lathe. Mine is not big enough.
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Thanks, that's what I am worried about - that the queen will survive. I think I'll get a cheap bee suit and remove everything in the depths of winter.
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I think it is pretty clear that your neighbour is in the wrong having cut branches on your side of the boundary. However the chances of you winning a case are pretty slim and there is no point in falling out with him. Also the damage is done now. I would simply make sure the neighbour is made aware of the law in this situation and politely say that if the tree doesn't recover, it would be appreciated if he would replace it like for like. Still if he declines, replace the tree yourself and move on.
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I have a huge wasps nest under my roof area, in an area that is quite warm and centrally heated. Is it the cold that kills off wasps or do they die naturally every year? I'm nervous these ones might not leave and I have roofing work to do next year. I know there were wasps there last year, but I can't be sure it was the exact same nest. I want to remove it over the winter and spray some "chemicals" in the area to make it less attractive to wasps in the future. Should I wear a bee suit as well? Any advice appreciated.
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Yes the thinking being that you can still damage a saw in the time it takes the tachometer to refresh for the H jet. However I am a cheapskate and very rarely use a tachometer. I also do not push saws anywhere near the max (at least 1000 rpms lower than max) and the default carb settings generally get pretty close. Personally for this type of use (as a check) I think a 1 sec refresh one is fine. L jet and idle doesn't require a tach, but even if you use one here, 1 sec refresh is fine.
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I didn't get on with rotatech bar oil (and I have posted here about it). It caused my bar sprockets to seize up which has been quite expensive to resolve. If you are still keen I'll give you a good price for the 17 odd litres I have left?
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So far labour have succeeded in annoyed a fair proportion of the 'grafters' of the country, e.g. employees (NIC=tax), business owners (CGT), bankers (carried interest and VAT on school fees) and farmers (IHT). Let's see.
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In electric, I've used both Stihl MSA 300 and Husqvarna 540i - both excellent for small short jobs. But be under no allusions, some manufacturers say their electric chainsaws have the same power as a 50cc saw, but personally in my experience they feel more like a 35 cc petrol chainsaw. Who knows why, you'd have to examine the test parameters - chain width etc.. But (again subjectively) my petrol MS 261 feels way more powerful/faster/lasts longer that either.
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