Paddy1000111

I haven't found the stihl stuff too bad. Their system is pretty dumb and not the super intelligent ECU that everyone thought it was. To be fair to stihl if there's an issue with their kit then they own it and replace the parts for cheap. A full mtronic update/repair kit for a 201T for example is £51 and that includes a new flywheel, ignition module, carburettor and throttle rod. The update kit for my 261 was £17 for a new fuel solenoid and filter etc. Not so sure about Huskys though...

Doesn't that put it above the C1 licence though? Also means I'll have to do C1+E and I wouldn't be able to get any groundie to drive it where I could with a 3.5T+750kg chipper

No worries! I wonder why they discontinued them. Maybe I'll email Stihl and ask!

I guess so but in my experience a lot of small engines score and seize on the chain side of the exhaust port. I've had some before that looked nice through the exhaust port but had no compression. The piston was scored in the right fwd corner and you couldn't see it. That was a farmers saw though that had been used and abused where it's dragged out the truck cold and put flat out straight away. I'm just trying to offer solutions that anyone can do with no tools and give a yes or no answer to aid diagnosis

Everyone has their bad days Spud... I'm still confused with that. You would think that that following the manual and taking the idle to 2800rpm **as per spec** would be the right thing to do but it now idles at 3100 because the tech said they never idle at 2800 ?. I just went in circles with it and gave it to someone else to check my sanity ?

Or is it 107, Or maybe G (ASCII unicode) is another initial of my name. I like mysteries

Well, I usually grease it up and give it a little twist. Can't think of anything else to call it ?

can you hold the saw up by the starter? i.e. hold the starter handle and let the saw go, does it drop and turn over or hold up? Usually a pretty fool proof "rough" compression guide.

Shame that it doesn't fix the log issue eigh! ?

Here's one of the rings I spliced in, so tight it's hard to rotate and locked in by lockstitches. I have quite a short end and I whip the tail just so it looks nicer

They look good! I can't remember where I saw the instructions from tuefelberger. I know they have one for a loopie sling and they definitely have them for the Ultra or they wouldn't sell them. God knows where I found it. The instructions from Poplar mechanic were easier to follow though. For the eye tighness I have tied off one end to a rafter and then hung a bucket off the other so theres 25kg of force puling it tight before pushing a spike through the joint to lock it and then carry on the splicing pulling everything very tight. You should also lockstitch the splice as per the teufelberger manual for trex splicing to lock it all in place (which it looks like you have anyway). I've not used a safebloc but are you meant to insure that the rope enters one side of the block and exits the other so it can't ever pull out of the sling?

Same issue in Devon. I got one of these, the rooms in the house were at 70-80% humidity, down to 51% now and everything's bone dry finally! I throw about 4L of water a day down the drain from it! electriQ 20 litre Low Energy Anti-Bacterial Dehumidifier for 2 to 5 bed houses WHICH Best Buy CD20LE | Appliances Direct WWW.APPLIANCESDIRECT.CO.UK Buy electriQ 20 litre Low Energy Anti-Bacterial Dehumidifier for 2 to 5 bed houses WHICH Best Buy CD20LE from Appliances Direct - the UK's leading online appliance specialist

I agree about shell bearings (Although you do put grease on them during build as oil doesn't stay in place and it prevents damage during first start but that's a different thing). Then again if you had a slow moving bushing which is the shell bearings closest relative then they are greased. But when I meant spray of oil I more meant a squirt of lubricant in a can not pressure feed systems. In the aircraft world (my previous job) the bearings on jet engines (rolling element ball bearings) were lubricated by a jet of high pressure oil which then drained down into a scavenge system, through a oil cooler and back to the oil reservoir. If you want a good example of bearings that are "swamped" just look at car gearboxes. The bearings are usually submerged and areas that aren't submerged are usually fed by pumps like on Land Rover R380 boxes. Another good example of swamped ball bearings are bearings in turbo chargers. High output turbos have swamped ball bearings that are pressure fed from the engine for cooling. It's like the CAT engines, c13 etc. They don't trust splash lubrication or mist lubrication so they have oil jets bolted under the piston which jet oil onto the liner and onto the piston base to give cooling and lubrication. At the end of the day, oil mist/air is probably one of the worst lubrication/cooling systems as air is a poor conductor of heat. Its the reason we use materials that trap air like down or fiberglass wool to give insulation. Liquid is the best conductor of heat which is why we cool our engines with oil and water and we don't all drive around in air cooled engined cars. Pretty much all high load/high speed bearings are pressure fed, gone are the days of having an oiler that you give 2 pumps every hour. Considering our saws now use more air and less fuel than ever before whilst working harder than ever before it makes sense to give them a little more oil. It doesn't seem to do any harm.

Oh yea 100%. I've never had a ticket of any sort in my life, all depends on attitude like you say and knowing when to just take an earful and let it go. Makes me think that I would probably have the unit plugged in or on a small switch tucked away. Get pulled over and say it's broken if needed. I have a dash cam and people have said "I don't know why on earth you would do that, it might incriminate you" but if I had a collision and I was at fault I would throw the micro SD card in the hedge. In all honesty if I was to keep running overloaded (which everyone else seems to do ?) I would still rather have one so I could shift a load round if it's unbalanced or know that I am under 20% over or whatever. I would rather have a properly balanced load that's a little over and get a slap on the wrist than an unbalanced load that's a tonne over and have a nasty crash when I lose steering.

I guess so. I feel like if I put my best effort into keeping it light I would at least be closer to 10-15% than over 30% if I overloaded by accident. Would much rather have a £100 fine than a court date.

600kg?! Definitely won't be getting a double cab. The single cab tippers I have seen spec a 1137kg payload they have a steel "highway maintenance" type bed. I am wondering about looking into an ally bed with some other type of material for the sides, not sure what yet. From what I have seen on spec sheets you can save 100-160kg on payload by getting an ally bed with ally short sides and I may look at something like ThermHex for the side panels above the normal tipper side height which is a polypropylene honeycomb board for truck bodies, caravans, ships etc. Prices aren't bad (under £200 for all the sides), it's strong and only weighs 80kg per cubic meter so all the sides would come in at maybe around 60kg

Well the clicking to me sounds like it's missing and the fact you said it cuts out under any kind of resonance sounds to me like you have a wire chafed though causing the ignition system to earth out somewhere and cut out. I'd suggest you make a start by taking off the fan cover and the top cover and get in with a small torch and just look at the wiring and check for any chafing points any loose plugs. Give everything a good tug and wiggle and make sure all the wires are in good nick. Also take the spark plug boot off and have a gander at the spark plug lead end connector as I have seen a few of these snapped. Another thing to look at is the little nipple on the end of the plug, on some models these unscrew, make sure its not come off or loose. If you have another spark plug then pop one in first and check again as the wire inside can crack or the resistor can give out and when it gets hot under full load they can cut out too, it's a similar result the engine misses/pops/clicks and then just dies. You let them cool off and fire it up and it will sit at half RPM/idle all day long as they don't get hot enough to die. Here's the 661c-m service manual if you want any info on taking stuff off or wiring harness diagrams- 661 c-m.PDF

Does it cut out instantly as in shut off like you hit the off switch or does it bog down and die?

Any chance of a video? Does it make a strange clicking noise all the time or just at high revs when it cuts out?

Also, for the sake of comparison. Here's the piston on my 3 year old 261c-m. Sadly I don't have last years spark plug as it found its way to the bin but apart from a light biscuit coating (like the spark plug in the slideshow) there wasn't any actual buildup

The above pictures were from stihl, They ran seven BR600 blowers for 500+ static running. The machines ran WOT 24H a day which would simulate a years professional use. Full slideshow here- WWW.SLIDESERVE.COM STIHL Inc. Mix Oil Comparison. STIHL Inc. Mix Oil Comparison. 500+ hour static run test Seven BR 600 blowers Test results from June 2006 Machines ran at W.O.T. 24 hours around the...

The differences between the oil colours HP/HP SUPER/HP ULTRA is: HP- Mineral oil- Low deposits, good lubrication HP Super- Semi-Synthetic- Lower deposits than HP, Better lubrication than HP HP Ultra- Fully-Synthetic- Minimal Deposits, perfected lubrication properties. To be fair to stihl, there is a difference between all 3, they aren't just marketing jargon and different packaging.

I'm just going to stick to what I'm doing. I know guys who do utility work and really use and abuse their saws cutting brash back etc. They have to provide their own ground/climbing saws but they get provided everything else. They run theirs on 40:1 without a problem as they have a tonne of saws and the guys who just chuck in one of those pre-measure pouches had more issues than the guys who ran slightly more oil. As well as the reasons I gave earlier the new saws are also meant to use 20% less fuel than older models with 2-MIX and the husky equivalent. Engines are now tighter, lighter, more powerful and higher revving than anything before, add into that supplying 20% less lubrication it all, to me anyway, seems a good reason to run slightly more oil. Not much has changed either tech wise, a bearing is still a bearing, a piston is still a piston. The tolerances may be tighter but there's nothing new. If you really want a bearing to last you run it in an oil bath or with a supply of high viscosity, high pressure grease, you don't give it a light spray of oil. I'm just going to stick with it, if the worst thing that happens is I have to brush a spark plug off occasionally (I've not had to yet) then so be it.

The reason the older saws ran on 25:1 and 32:1 is because the tolerances weren't great and neither was the oil. Modern fully synth oil will provide far more lubrication than any of the older stuff. Why run more oil? Why not? The only reason we are pushed to run less and less oil isn't so much because oil has come on a long way or its super protective but more because the saws need to meet emissions regulations, to do that and to reach the specs on paper and be "compliant" you must run the saws on a 50:1 oil mix. A lot of guys run ported saws, modded mufflers, they remove spark arrestor screens or gut the muffler if it has a cat. Why wouldn't you run more oil? Especially as the new stuff is clean burning, doesn't wax up etc It only has positive effects on the engine unless you take it too far. There's only negatives from running less and less oil. Modern cars can go 20,000 miles/2 years between services with new oils. They did this to make ownership look nicer and to reduce carbon footprint and be "green". It doesn't mean I wouldn't change the oil at 10,000 every year like I've always done. I bet if you compared 2 engines, 1 serviced every 10k, one serviced every 20k like the manufacturer states there would be stark differences. Bit like saws, take two saws put them on a test bench and load them up. Use the same fuel and oil, feed one 50:1, feed the other 40:1 and leave them both running flat out until one pops, I guarantee it will be the 50:1 saw. For the sake of 5L of fuel using £2.40 of oil instead of £2 of oil it makes me happier and from what I have seen from my saw during services and teardowns, my saw is happier too.

Good effort. What gave them away? The flat tyres or the clutch smoke from every stop ?