Heavy Oil Saw
-
Posts
130 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Heavy Oil Saw
-
Like a clean air “plug”? Thank you for the explanation, I am learning slowly.
-
The supercharger/scavenger blower on a 2 stroke diesel clears the cylinder for a fresh charge, as well as feed air for the combustion stage, so to speak. If my days in classroom are to be remembered.
-
Your right, looks like it was an internal problem, and metal was dragged around, it was hard enough to chip the cylinder anyway. Cheers for pointing out the different transfers, I’m at a loss at which is which. Top allows in fuel/air mix and lower is the Strato fresh air (is that the air blower/supercharger in my terminology?). Used to two stroke diesels myself.
-
Is that any better? My opinion is she’s not got any life left in her. Need better lighting in the garage, in the kitchen it’s clear as day the Nikasil is ruined and a chip missing between the transfers.
-
In another post I mentioned having another cylinder for the saw I’m “building”, and that I was worried about some damage I’d noticed on it. Is this salvageable or sling it in the junk with other parts I’ve already renewed. Here’s the exhaust port And this is a transfer I believe
-
Think it is 0000 350 3518.
-
Fit the new type fuel filter, has a higher micron rating and obviously stops more crud getting to the carb/solenoid. Think it has the orange body. From what I’ve read.
-
Shall just give it a quick blitz and be done. I was studying the damaged piston, and thinking of the comment of why wasn’t the cylinder more damaged. I believe@spudulike mentioned about locking the engine off, to remove flywheel, I think this is the case, a flat blade screwdriver or maybe a chisel was stuck in there, as the corner of one fits pretty well.
-
Just bought a Meteor piston from Greece, think some of you guys have purchased from him before, as found his name on here, bloke called Leo. I’ll spin my stones down the cylinder, unless there’s more of a chainsaw friendly thing to do. Vim in the cylinders deglazes well apparently. Thanks with all your help so far, it’s greatly appreciated.
-
The little cut outs are still there to align with the pins.
-
Bent bits from the saw. It looks like the front handle lower AV mount is bent, it may well meant to be like that. I don’t run saws for a living, but after using one, thought I’d build one. Be cheaper to buy one, buts what’s the fun in that? The boys kind of enjoy seeing things as well.
-
I really don’t know. Took the cylinder off, ginger carefully, inspected it, thought no too bad, placed the rest under a towel and got on ordering bits here and there. My eldest (8yo) was helping stuff the bearings back into a case using oven and freezer method and wanted to know how a engine worked, so grabbed a cylinder (the one in pics) and the body. Obviously going through the motions and noticed the damage, never thought there would be any as the cylinder was clean.
-
I think I’ll get a Meteor piston and new Stihl bearing and clips and run the cylinder. Are the Meteor rings any good? The cylinder looks almost new inside and out, apart from that slight difference in lining colour.
-
I wrote it like I took them, but uploaded them back to front, sorry. I’m slightly puzzled by it, I have no history of the saw, seller said he got it as a job lot and sold them off. I do think something heavy landed on the muffler, as it’s dented at the top, and the piston mounted AV spring was bent.
-
Here’s a few pics of a piston from a Stihl, first two are intake side, with damage to the lower skirt, the third is exhaust with a couple of dings of some sort on the left. Should I just ditch it, or could I clean it up or run as is? Here’s the cylinder that the piston ran in, on the intake side there seems to be a little damage on the same side where the piston is, the plating looks worn. I have another cylinder, but that looks buggered on the lips of the ports. I’ll post pics later. Any advice welcome. I’ve honed bores, but these 2 strokes, which I’m new to, are finicky IMO.
-
The motors will all be made in the same factory in China, just in a different case. I’d of thought the electronics would of been key to power, IMO.
-
You could be onto something there.
-
I’ve never seen petrol leave crystals like that before, brown sludge like in the link describes, but never sugar looking stuff? Sorry I can’t be much more help, though personally, I’d be up for tasting it.
-
That’s what happens when you drink in Bavaria.
-
I’m tempted to get the screw type, for assembly as well. My problem is it robust enough, are the threads decently cut, are the adapters stamped with part no? I keep looking at the Stihl one, but the price is high, but your getting a quality tool and able to return if it breaks, and part no stamped on adapters.
-
Not sure how your coil will act if mtronic or even work, and there’ll be a start position missing, probably warm start. The wiring harness will be different. Could be modified. If you’ve got a carb 261 you’ll have the parts.
-
Do you know the number on the old or new coil? 4701a or 4702a maybe?
-
1140 007 1802 mtronic kit for 261 & 362, not found this kit price or where to get it from, someone may know though.
-
@lofty123 I think there is an improved solenoid, which is white I believe. The black ones weren’t all that good apparently. I found part no on another forum. Did you get a cheap carb in the end? Found any other gremlins. My build has stalled while I save funds for a case splitter, think I may get both?
-
Rodger the dodge. Bet your thinking, here’s a bloke who asked a lot of questions in school, and your right I did and still do. Thank you all!!
