Mark Wileman
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Everything posted by Mark Wileman
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I'm using theres, good point, might stick a real one in
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Thanks Eric, going to get a genuine coil and see how she goes. I've got her idling fine now, only misfiring when I put the gas on!
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Just to elimate the carb, my H/L jets are currently a turn out (probably a bit more beacuse I was scared of going all the way in and snapping them again), so could this backfire be caused because they are to far open and therefore there is too much fuel going into the cylinder, hence still burning when the exhaust port opens and backfiring? If this is a faulty coil it should be back firing as soon as I pull the cord, but shes starting, idling roughly and not revving, then backfiring... seems to be it's a timing issue, but not a coil issue (as a dodgy coil would fail every cycle, right?).
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It's on! I guess I could try to tighten the exhaust bolts a bit and give it a go. I'm going to reset the position of the coil and then if it's still not playing find a genuine coil to stick on, the fun begins
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How's it going guys, update on my 372 now my new carb finally came! She fires up okay, but when I give her full revs she doesn't seem to go past a fast idle, was about to start fiddling with the carb and the fucker backfired through the carb. Now she'll fire up when I hold the gas on but she backfires and then cuts out, the flywheel key is still in position, and I have a credit card's gap between the flywheel magnet and coil, my mix is about 2 months old so I'm going to try in the morning with fresh mix before I start trouble-shooting further!
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First splice ever, my Dad talked me through it. Yeah the core was a nightmare, got the fid caught a few times. To be honest this was just a test splice, the other end of this 7m rope will have a 50cm eye, just wanted a crab attachment on the other end for a bit more versatility. About the bunching, how do you combat that? I tried to tighten the outer layer as I was doing the final pull but couldn't get it to budge.
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Yeah, honestly if you want a decent saw, buy a decent genuine saw. I've not done this to try and be cheap, I was genuinely interested in the idea of putting a saw together and fault finding/fixing it as it breaks down to improve my knowledge of saws. I nearly have enough in my piggy bank to get a 395xp, this is just little festive project
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Which turns out not to be genuine!
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Might just get this genuine one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Husqvarna-365-372-Carburettor-Carb-Walbro-581-10-07-01-Genuine-Part/1550565206
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Just did that, used my combi to tighten it up to the point that it needed body weight to turn (probably too tight). On the subject of too tight, just sheared my L screw on the carb Rather than mess around I'm going to get a new carb, recommendations for the best carb avaliable? I said all along that as stuff breaks I'm going to replace it with genuine/good quality aftermarket stuff.
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Ah, okay guys I cheated, I ordered a seperate crank case already assembled so I have all the parts to make up a new crank case (plan to do this with original bearings, shaft, seals and a 52mm cylinder). So yeah, that surclip is "engine stuff" that was already built I'm glad your online Spud, watch this space as I spend all day trying to get her to run Do you usually put washers on flywheel nuts?
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Just before I fire her up, H/L low screws where done all the way in then 1 turn out, idle screw I'll do when running. And Dan, just checked my flywheel nut The video i followed used a washer on the flywheel but the parts diagram doesn't have one, not sure what direction to go in there but as I dont have a torque wrench I think I'll washer up!
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Just assembled my 372, going to wait until the morning with a fresh head to set the carb and fire her up. I also have a surclip left over, so I'm a bit worried.... Apart from a bit of a fiddle with the oiler, it went together perfectly. The start coil quality is crap mind, so if anyone has a 365/372 genuine starter assembly for sale .... Will upload some pics in the morning.
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Any chance we can get a sub-forum in the employment bit for freelance/SE guys to have stickies now the directory is gone? CTC soon spam off any self advertising we do! Rule could be the post title must just be service and area covered to make it easy to search "Groundman - Devon/West Cornwall" etc...
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I used the fids for part of it, had to use a longer metal strip to do the bigger gaps though.
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First attempts tonight! 16mm Marlow Draco eye splice.
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2-stroke novice question... why would that make the saw scream? Sucking air in through the crank seals? Good job for finishing though, how was the quality of the other parts?
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As unsightly as that chip is, I don't think it'll effect the way the case sits together will it? Should stihl get a good seal if the gaskets are okay. I'm a bit nervous now waiting for my 365/372 (don't know what size cylinder it comes with), quality seems to be a bit hit or miss! About the bearings, all the videos I have seen people have swapped the bearings out for better OEM ones or original ones, if your confident you can do it I'd say go for it, the bearing is probable the most likely thing to go (that isn't easily fixable at least).
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They don't seem a lot of money, I'm not the best at file sharpened unless I'm on my bench, lately i'm making a mess of my chains when sharpened out stone/metal hits on the job. I get them good enough to go again but not so good as I can get in the workshop. Electric jobber would mainly be for getting said messed up chains back on track!
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Hey, sorry to revive the thread but do electric chainsaw sharpeners work on semi chisel chains? Trying to understand the physics of a disc getting into the same position as a round file
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Most cost effective way of running a 28" bar.
Mark Wileman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Chainsaws
372 pot is 50mm? -
Most cost effective way of running a 28" bar.
Mark Wileman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Chainsaws
But there certainly seem to be a lot more second hand stihls out there, so we'll see! -
Most cost effective way of running a 28" bar.
Mark Wileman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Chainsaws
I think I'm too deep in huskies to go stihl, for no reason other than then looking pretty lined up next to each other mind -
Most cost effective way of running a 28" bar.
Mark Wileman replied to Mark Wileman's topic in Chainsaws
I'll have to set it up, I use works 372 with an 18 inch bar, anything bigger we have a 385, 390 and a 3120 so I think I just jumped to the conclusion that 70cc isn't good for much past 20 inch. -
Doesn't the blood short out the electric saws when they cut you therefore stopping the chain before cutting your leg off?
