Rough Hewn
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Everything posted by Rough Hewn
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Sounds interesting, What do you mean by streets ahead? [emoji106]
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Get a snatch block to offset the angle. You’ll be out the way then[emoji106]
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After reading this thread, My advice would be: A tirfor is the wrong piece of equipment for the job. [emoji106]
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Please help identify why my hedge looks dead
Rough Hewn replied to suavegarve's topic in Tree health care
Burn it. [emoji106] -
I looked into the costs of manufacturing the components to build my own mill… 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 Have you seen the price of extruded aluminium profile lengths… Not to mention all the bespoke engineering… Think I’ll stick to just using them… 🤣🤣🤣[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Yep, clean air filter after every large cut. They’re only about a tenner. Get a spare. I’ve seen guys put grease around the bottom seal to stop dust. [emoji106]
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Glitch in the matrix…[emoji106]
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I banged a tiny dent in the bar where the grub screw goes with an old nail. [emoji106]
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Yes it is on FBarbtalk, There is some rot, but it’s getting much smaller up the log. I expect it to be fairly solid after another 4-8’. Sadly though we have had to cancel the job as there were too many complications with the site. Gutted… I have said if he can crane it onto a lorry I’d take it. But I’m not holding my breath.
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The length on the bar is how far it protrudes from the front of the saw. Ie 16” will be protruding 16”. (Minus bumper spike length) (For Stihl bars) [emoji106]
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And I wouldn’t bother getting a replacement bottom skid. You can change the chain now without unbolting… [emoji106]
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Ok, let me explain. Panther mills are at the cutting edge of chainsaw milling. All mills will need correct assembly and calibration. Then you will have teething issues. But after a while you will have the best mill available. I had issues with everything above, but all got sorted in a few days. Never had an issue since. And I push the limits of all my kit…. Chilaskan mills are great for beginners and hobbyists or woodworkers. They just don’t last though with heavy use. I’ve got a box full of broken Alaskans. Probably burnt through 3-4 in 2 years. The aluminium wears on the rails so that the bolts lose grip, the uprights crack and break, The welding is ****, don’t trust the height markers…. Etc. That’s why there’s also a massive difference in price. I’ve had my panthers for over 2 years of harsh work, still going strong. [emoji106]
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And in twenty or more… Someone with a chainsaw mill will be wondering WTF!!! 🤣[emoji106]
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What would you want them cut into? Planks, beams, live edge boards? How many have you got?
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I can do this, but I’m not cheap. Is it oversized logs?
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None. [emoji106]
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I removed the lower skid and bent the clip bit off so it doesn’t clip the chain. [emoji106]
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It’s the same air filter as most pro Stihl saws, the hd2 filter. It gets blocked quickly because you’re milling produces finer chips, and the engine uses more air flow than any other saw. I clean my air filter every cut on big slabs. [emoji106] Bloody nice bit of elm [emoji108][emoji108][emoji108]
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With 304 drive links per chain! 🤣[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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[emoji16][emoji16][emoji16][emoji106]
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Big big thank you to Rob.d @chainsawbars for sponsoring the mega log milling in a week or so. [emoji16][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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This arrived whilst I’ve been away… Anyone guess the length of this bar?[emoji848] (That’s a 661 with 25” bar on left) [emoji6][emoji106]
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Get a ladder.
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Andys right you don’t need to alter the angles, it’s personal preference. But yes the clearing teeth need to be lower than the cutting teeth. Lo pro is delicate, go gently. Always buy the bigger bar. [emoji106]
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That’s camber. Only some oregon chains use a 10 degree camber. But most manufacturers it’s flat.
