lux
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Posts posted by lux
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Coincidentally I’m working next door to the real Mick hucknalls house in a couple of weeks.-
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You will need to get your deposit down first. Germany is running at a third capacity so I had to wait a month for my new Stihl saw and the same will happen with vans. Then you are competing with Amazon, Royal mail, all the delivery companies and the Supermarkets all buying new vans now.
Just bought a new 3 way tipper trailer German made. Readily available no supply issues. Couldn’t get an ifor until April from same dealer. Or any other uk brand.
Trying to buy a new canopy from N and J Aluminium at the moment. Those guys are on their knees
Will investigate the van situation. I’m most likely to get a new iveco.
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Drop me a message, not far from you in petworth
Are you after timber on a regular basis ? I’ve got some half decent sticks to knock over coming up in the diary. I’m Haslemere. I don’t mill very often now so happy to move some on else it’s the big biomass boiler in the sky for them ...-
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Evening boys and girls
just wanted to give a heads up to any 4x4 tipper owners, being one myself I’ve had a bit of a time of it regarding insurance companies. I was recently involved in a road accident in my l200 tipper. I bought the truck standard and had It converted 3 years ago, I met someone on a narrow country lane and managed to stop... unfortunately... she didn’t. She admitted full liability so I was completely in the clear. The issue I had was when it came to the insurance agreeing a value on the vehicle. When I first had it converted I informed the insurance of this and they agreed it was worth around £10000. I Renewed insurance with that same reputable firm (NFU) for the next 3 years. However after the accident they wrote the truck off and tried telling me it was only worth 6.5k!! For a 2011 l200 tipper in immaculate condition with 60k on the clock. They told me that I should have updated the value every year but my argument was that it hasn’t really lost any value?!!
anyway after many arguments and choice words and the backing of the garage that quoted the repairs!!! .... I’ve managed to haggle them up to 8.5k and as I still can’t buy one as good as mine I have bought it back and going to repair it myself (forgot to mention I was a car mechanic for 4 years before i joined the arb industry) it’s my only option as I still can’t buy another one as good for 8.5k
Just wanted to give a heads up to any owners of similar vehicles to make sure you give them a value every year.
I was looking at buying an extra van recently. Some used ones in arb spec seem to be going up in value. My transit van seems to be worth pretty much what I paid for it 4/5 years ago. I was very surprised. I bought another new tipper trailer in the end to go behind my 4x4 until next spring when I think I will just buy new as the secondhand can prices are daft.
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After several years of debating what to buy and having almost gone for a Trakmet TTS 800 premium band saw and generator, I have taken several steps back and decided to just mill my requirements and high value slabs with a Panther 42" and a Spud ported 660 , which I already have, running Lo Pro Stihl chain.
I bought the Panther Intersect as well, as Rob D. says the combination of the 2 is the most efficient setup to produce any dimensional timber that I require.
We get a lot of tree removals where normally the trunk unfortunately gets ringed up for firewood, but as the timber costs my nothing, milling slabs should add a lot of value to some jobs.
I invested in the longest 1st cut system rails so I can, when the need arises, mill up to 8.5m when the labour to move slabs that length is at hand !
I have a forklift and facilities to dry up to 8.5m if is worth force drying or I can just sticker and let nature take its course? Marketing will be the real challenge !!!
I planned to mill 'slabs' at 2 1/4" and 3 1/4" but I would appreciate your views on these dimensions.
I take it from the post you have a log kiln or access to one in which you can dry the timber. ? That’s a real plus for planks. Like hewn said if it’s beams for framing you want them green so as they naturally air dry and a mortise and tenon will gain an extra mechanical lock as it shrinks and tightens. Oak in particular
Timbers for say staircases etc etc will want to be killed or air dried a number of years.
I have found its best to move a stick in lengths back to the yard and mill at a later time rather than mill on site. Milling is a lovely process but is quite slow and makes a huge amount of mess. Unless a customer wants there own timber you will be spending a long time extra on a site and generating a big clean up in someone’s garden. Commercially if access allows you will make more money moving the stick and milling at a more convenient time / location and rolling onto the next tree job.
I no longer mill anything because it’s just nice timber. I will relocate it and save it for another day. If you have the space etc. Generally the timber is then just used for my own projects.
Hope that’s helpful.
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It’s under £500 , take away the vat it’s irrelevant.
That is very cheap for a big saw. I don’t need one but I might buy one out of curiosity now [emoji23]
Are they on a par performance wise to say a 572 or 462 etc -
It would be good if they made this clear, as a lot of people will be put off buying
that would otherwise buy a Dolmar, needs cleared up, maybe @shavey could contact
Dolmar and ask for a straight answer.
Yes the saws have not changed much in 10 years, other than to keep up with the
emissions regulations, that says a lot abouth how well they were designed and built.
The 7900 and even the 7300 can still compete with the new Husqvarna 572, and for
40% less in price.
Are they really under £500 ? That is very cheap. -
Would anyone be able to help with the above problem I’m having?
After recently blocking off the accelerator pump the saw starts and runs sweet so thought I’d fixed the boggy acceleration.
I’d previously changed:
Fuel filter
Fuel line
Spark plug
Carb kit and cleaned it
Blown out:
Air filter
Fuel tank vent and valve
I’d even replaced the fuel cap thinking there was a problem with the pressure...no psssst when opened
When it’s boggy it does pick up if I feather the trigger
Any advice would be much appreciated. I don’t want a dealer to have it for another 6 weeks
Air leak somewhere maybe.
I had one that only played up when hot. Cylinder and piston were scored.
I’d imagine you’d be better off getting a new saw and chucking the old one in to be fixed and not worry about how long it takes. -
They are a bit depressing ....
See... humour helps. [emoji23]-
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Some of you need to try a winter where i live,christ its not called the heads of the valleys for no reason.Its 1368 feet above sea level and my place is right on the top of the mountain.
Always makes me chuckle we use feet to express altitude in the UK. Go anywhere else in the world and what we label mountains are rolling foothills.... Scottish highlands the same, undoubtedly very beautiful but not particularly big.
No getting away from the fact that our increasingly wet climate is getting tiresome. Makes you appreciate those lovely sunny days even more.
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I really like these goat skin gloves, they helped me when I had grip injuries......You sound young with a lot to discover, but RSI is very real for many folk with a heavy lifes workload weighing them down.
WWW.SAFETYLIFTINGEAR.COM
Cutter CW700 Strimmer & Trimmer Anti-Vibration Glove | CUT-CW700 | SafetyLiftinGear
Buy Cutter CW700 Strimmer & Trimmer Anti-Vibration Glove On SafetyLiftinGear From £13.75
Sadly you are well wide of the mark on all counts.
Luckily RSI never been an issue for me.-
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Yes, it’s a highly underrated wood.
Like oak but less sapwood obviously.
Quarter sawn it’s stunning, beautiful medullary rays , but I’m a fan of big old gnarly burry ones.
Seen some quite amazing ones over the years.
Blinkin huuge sone of them with 8’+ burrs!
It’s highly durable outdoors, it’s lighter and easier to work than oak.
I think there’s a market for SC sleepers over imported euro oak.
Just need to convince the public[emoji106]
I only milled it once making a bridge in a horse field. Nothing fancy but some thick old slabs. I’ve heard of it being used as beams but I’ve only worked in the round at Ben laws.
Some of the helical old stuff is good for veneer I believe.
Anyway I have some real whoppers to fell in December. It’s down south but if it’s of interest let me know. I’ll be paying to have it lorried away as it stands.-
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Hell yes!!!
Milling with a big saw is a white knuckle ride all the way, wrestling it in a straight line, perpendicular to the log, big knobbly bits to go around and 120 odd cc and 5’ of chain to fight against.
And you can’t stop or let go without scoring the board.
So that’s a big YES!!!
[emoji6][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Lol. I’ve done plenty of milling. That’s quite a description hewn. [emoji38]
I hate gloves save for really cold weather. I’m just chuckling that these are special milling gloves.
Do you ever mill sweet chestnut. ?-
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The 880 is bit of a tractor,
The 881 is like a fast trac.
All my saws are stock, though I have used quite a variety of ported and spud ported saws.
Unmodified the 880 is fine with an 84” bar in 5’ of oak.
The issue with modding 880’s is being able to use the increase in torque effectively.
As the top rpm is really limited to about 12.5-13k mechanically.
However with porting you could drop the depth gauges below recommended levels as you’d have the torque to back it up.
But then you’d have a saw which couldn’t be used legally for work.
This is a pre production model of the 881.
It’s just on loan. Had it from March til August and it’s on its way back Monday [emoji1][emoji1][emoji1]
Rob.d of Chainsawbars.co.uk has just sent me some different chain setups for the panther mills. So next week I’ll be doing some comparison videos (if the rain stops).
And looking forward to trying these out..
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Anti vibration gloves for milling [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] .... seriously ... -
Reduce the height no problem, reducing the sides will look terrible and by the look of the way it’s grown it would be a truly miserable climb.
I agree with the fell and replant. Pick something that won’t outgrow its position or require lots of future pruning if you have their best interests in mind not to be giving them a future expense. Removing and replacing that tree will no doubt be enough of a cost for them.-
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I think it depends if they can afford r&d of developing a new one too how many they will actually sell
Judging by the demand for the second hand ones going at new saw prices I’d say it would be worth it. Honey brothers got a batch of 880’s a couple of weeks back. Sold in days all at full rrp instead of the usual 27% discount from rrp.
I will be getting a new 881 when they come out.-
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As already mentioned torque settings will be critical. On both my grinders once I have tightened them up I rotate the cutter and give each pocket a couple of knocks with a hammer then recheck. Usually grit / dirt moves and they need a nip up to torque again. Seems to work for me [emoji106]
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Any tree you underprice [emoji38].
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It would be useful if they replaced the 3120 too.
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For the last few years I have been using a Predator stump grinder. My present stump grinder is a 38 RX fitted with a Kohler EFI engine, a big improvement on the petrol carburettor version and the Lombardini diesel engine.
The cutting head is really my only gripe. I've always been very satisfied how well the Multi-Tip cutting head performs and how easy it is to change the teeth. However, an issue that always seems to arise is the shearing off of the bolt holding the cutter teeth in place.
According to Predator a few years ago there were a few soft steel cutting wheels around which were causing issues. They actually gave me a free replacement cutting wheel. After approximately 15 hours work with my latest Predator, I sheared my first bolt. I can break sometimes three or four bolts in a days grinding and sometimes I won't break a single bolt for several days. I'm not quite sure why this is, however, I do believe that the cutting wheel steel is not particularly hard, therefore the pockets become slightly stretched.
I'm thinking about possibly changing to a Green Teeth cutting wheel, I would be interested to hear about other people's experience with the above cutting wheels.
You can read more and see a short video on a post that I wrote a few days ago.
Thank you for reading.
Roy
I have the same grinder. Have you tried buying bolts from elsewhere or even had some produced. Looks like the bolts are made from the wrong steel for impact work.-
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Try proper scotch bonnet sauce.
Tobasco is ketchup by comparison.
[emoji106]
I’m not sure giving scotch bonnet to a pup is a great idea ... vets are bloody expensive [emoji38]-
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Get a fruit, take the seed out, put a blob of chilli sauce/English mustard inside the flesh.
Then give it to the dog.
Won’t be interested after.
[emoji106]
Tried that tactic when my viszla was a pup. She used to do a bit of kitchen worktop surfing to hoover up any food.
I spiced the crumbs up with some tobasco, only thing I discovered was that she likes a bit of spicey grub [emoji23]. Greedy bugger lapped it all up.-
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Quite honestly as a generalisation this industry loves to moan and blow smoke up its own arse about how skilled we are. Etc etc. It’s perhaps only the physical nature of the work that sets us apart from other trades.
In reality anyone who is physically fit and is a hands on practical person with some good sense will grasp the motor skills needed to do this job. Maybe it’s the dangling from a bit of rope feeling like an action hero that gives people a raised perception of what’s required.
If the OP was going to learn to plaster or lay bricks at 35 people wouldn’t say much. Most of us couldn’t leave a mirror finish plaster and no doubt if I laid a big brick wall it would be as bent as 9 bob note.
Climbing and cutting trees is a skill for sure but it’s not building a space ship. I recon at 35 he’s got some miles left on the clock and if it makes him happier then give it a bash. Good luck to him.-
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So true. I am 60 now and still do most of our climbing, but there is no way I can mange the wide hedges any more. I leave that to the young ones with more strength than me. Most days the groundies have a harder time than I do up the trees.
For sure. When there is no way of getting any mechanical assistance on a job and it’s down to dragging branches and carrying logs ground work no doubt saps the legs more. Plenty a good enough reason for the op to learn to climb quickly [emoji23]-
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ArbDogs? Pics!
in The Lounge
Posted
Went to refresh my memory on a job coming up that I priced about 6 months ago. Nice woodland so took Maisie for walk whilst I measured up some of timber being removed. Terrible weather so she got daddies jacket for the drive home