lux

Soon as you put cable bracing in. Yr admitting failure potential. K

Looks like a nice dismantle for the new year.

You can’t cut 72” slabs with a woodlands.
Or carry it into the woods/Forest/through the kitchen etc.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

That's the only thing is then it blows the milling out the window because it's hard enough on a 881 let alone a ported 661 plus the availability for big bars and the need for adapters and bla bla bla 

Hi all
 
I've been asked to inspect some Cobra bracing today and although we know what we are doing, I’m not qualified to inspect or re-brace the tree in question.
 
Is there a qual for bracing and if so, does it cover inspection of historic braces? 
 
Many thanks in advance
 
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Oh yea, 100%. I wouldn't ever want to swing an 880 in a tree. What I meant was, I was going to get a 661 for big jobs off the ground but it left things a little muddy size wise. I personally don't see a big enough gap between a 500i and a 660 to make it worth owning both and there's not much of a saving between a 462 and a 661 to make it worth owning both as for the bigger stuff it doesn't make much of a difference. 
 
I guess if I got a 661 then a 500i/462 are so close weight and size wise that it doesn't make it worth buying both a 661 and a 500i/462 apart from luxury. At the other end of the spectrum a 462 can run a 25" bar, my 261 will run an 18" which is enough for most jobs. 
 
Theoretically, if an 881 is more ergonomic and not a engine with handles anymore then I can have an 881, a 500i or a 462 and the 261 which seems like the perfect balance of saws with the add on of my 200T it covers pretty much everything. Obviously if I lived in a budget free world then a 661 as well would be nice as I wouldn't have to climb with the 881 but I am younger and can cope with more of a work out for now anyway.

23 hours ago, lux said:

Not on or near the king Edward estate is it ? Only out of interest. I’ve just done a load on a domestic site there. Was surrounded by birch and chestnut plantation.

Not that one, the old hospital site top of the hill on Kings drive , you then have the long straight hill down to midhurst that has the coppice to one side and the forestry stuff on the other. They mulched a large section on the road side a couple of years back. 

Any way there is loads of birch plantation in there,  A lot of those new large houses on the estate have some terribly exposed trees in there gardens and driveways that are becoming a problem. They were all forestry trees and the developers have left patches of them landscaped into the development. Ugly tall trees with no crowns and now really exposed to get blown over.  lots of them are in poor health too. 

Only out of interest as Im working on several there lately. 

I have a small amount of Birch available, cut to 3m lengths. Most is fairly strait but there is the odd bendy knobbly bit and some small diameter but most is in the 4 to 10 inch diameter range. Felled over the last two months. Access for 8 wheeler, not artic. Looking for £44 a ton +vat. Initially one load but more will be available in the future. Near Midhurst in West Sussex. 

Just a couple more from the end of last weeks Bosh session. Big old twin stem and the single stem that Big Beech is now the proud owner of.

Is it for indoor our outdoor use ?

Polyurethane spray like you use to seal kitchen worktops would also be good. That can stabilise colours. Let me ask Tim who works for me. He’s got plenty of knowledge in this sort of stuff with his carpentry skills.

If it’s a pale ish colour yes. If you are talking about woods with dark or red colouration etc I’d be reluctant to use it. It’s a strong chemical bleach basically so likely to fade the colours you are trying to recover / preserve.
With redwoods I’ve had good results refinishing and sealing to liven the colour back up. Osmo is a good product to seal and UV stabilise which might help mate.

I doubt it will recover lost colour ...in fact the complete opposite it is a bleach !!!

I am looking for some information, if possible on the use of the aforementioned Acid for the recovery of lost colour in wood.
I know that some woods, when milled produce some phenomenal colours but as the timber dries this disappears.
Is there any benefit in using this for restoration of colour along with a wood conditioner?
I am well out of my depth, so any information greatly appreciated.
Timber species specifically is Yellow Poplar and and Magnloia.

I don’t know what kind of ground it’s grown on in Kent. But in Sussex/Surrey it always seems to be on a sandstone slope, hence the silica. 
 
 

Besides. Is bought it and taken it now. I don’t do refunds [emoji23]. I’m sure he will get something worthwhile from it.

Sweet Chestnut warps like a bitch when milled and the Sussex stuff is full of silica. I wouldn't waste your time.

I appreciate that your new axe isn't as "new" as you wanted it to be. But. Its for splitting logs? Just crack on and use it.

 
How big are the bits and how much do you want for some?

 
First one, i like the helical form as you said. Wood looks good. Will it get milled?

 
First one, i like the helical form as you said. Wood looks good. Will it get milled?

What kind of tree is that, Lux?

More of the same for us today, same site again as the photos from Tuesday. Another couple bopped down to the specified heights.

Same again tomorrow. Sadly much bigger ...

Feels flimsy where they have kept weight down like most new stihls.

Basically same saw. Different chains that’s about it now the 560 had been updated.
20inch bar is max. Any more and you want the 572. Nice enough saw.