Johnsond

Hi yeah absolutely the guy who is asking has nearly 30 yrs commercial diving experience and prior to that was a navy clearance diver. He now runs his own inshore commercial diving firm. Normal practice/old school would be to airlift around the base of the pile and then cut with a diver operated hydraulic or air powered saw as per pic. But the health and safety types are not keen on that nowadays. I've done this operation myself as a diver and dive supv and it's a hard one to risk assess and train for. It was myself whom suggested the idea of shears as hydraulics will happily work sub sea.The problem with vibroing out timber piles is the tops are nearly always rotten or weaker than the portion of pile remaining in the ground and invariably tears apart. Also the vibro hammers are designed to clamp onto steel piles not the top of old timber piles. The job itself is for demolition of an old navy jetty so the value of the timber is not a concern as it will most likely be scrapped at end of job. I was just throwing it out there hoping that somebody might have a way of or experience of adapting the newer bigger shears to carry out the task. Cheers

Hi looking for some advice on best option for sealing the ends on some large sequoia slabs. I've a fair area to cover so would be looking at a decent amount of whatever is recommended. Any advice would be appreciated cheers

Hi Yeah the first option will be to choke them and go for a straight pull. Can't use the vibro extraction option as the timber is in poor condition above water. This in my experience is generally the case as the constant exposure to air and then water is far more damaging than constant immersion. If they don't pull then client will want a contingency plan. All the cutting and or shearing would be a subsea operation at 1m below bed level, total water depth is approx 12m involving divers so dust etc would not be an issue although I will pass the warning on as they will no doubt be dealing with them once on surface. Regarding the shears the main concern is as to wether they would have enough grunt to deal with piles of that size. Cheers

Hi All ive a colleague whom has been asked to remove a number of greenheart piles from an old jetty. Basically they will be cleared to 1m below bed level then cut. Old school way was with a diver with an air powered saws as per pic but health and safety nowadays tends to not like such bits of kit. My query is are there shears out there that could deal with 14 inch square greenheart ?? And if so could they be crane deployed on a rigging bridle to be positioned on the pile ?? Just throwing this out there guys for some opinions Cheers

I must admit I agree with most of that and whilst I can't stand the the policies and bullshit he spouts I do know of one ex miner who did graft for his money back in the day that being Ronnie Campbell MP

Dial back on interfering in other people's wars and problems and concentrate on a strong defence force and all the associated engineering and manufacturing jobs etc it generates would be a good start. Accountability on massively over budget publicly funded projects ie Scottish parliament building etc would be nice.

Hi Andy I was trying not to mention the SNP tax system as it's blatantly unfair and for them to claim you are rich if you earn 43000 is total rubbish. I know the sacrifices I make to support my family and the thought of the incompetent individuals whom take a bloody large chunk of it because I choose to work hard and try and better myself infuriates me. I agree we need to pay in to the system to support all the services, that I have no problem with but make it fair like I say fixed rate job done. Talking of tax my council tax bill is like having a never ending £200 a month bank loan, start putting vat on and all the other little money grabs and the total tax take starts to look very different.

Flat rate across the board ie 20-25% after say 10k regardless of how much you earn no messing no need for a huge hmrc workforce and the tactics they use on investigations. work hard and you make more not get penalised. Tax system is so complex the loopholes are exploited massively by those who can afford to.

Hi Just came across that online and was wondering if anyone had any info on them ?? Cheers

Hi Worked with a German UXO disposal guy a while back whom would not entertain smart phones, face book, twitter etc etc he was adamant about it. After a bit of banter and mickey taking his reason given was after growing up in the former East Germany and being subject to the scrutiny and eavesdropping on everyday citizens by the Stasi he would never again utilise any device or bit of kit that enabled people to keep tracks on him. He was a switched on very clever guy and no conspiracy theory type but he believed whole heartedly based upon his past experiences that the state and the likes of google Facebook etc etc were not to be trusted.

Only thing I'm tuned into right now is how much aches and pains I've got after humping them slabs about lol

Hi Yeah pump was screwed right up the correct way. Saw was bench tested with bar in and no chain. I guess yes started with brake on as per norm, and brake off and revved to check flow. In an earlier post you mentioned the case valve I checked and cleaned that and slightly altered the profile of the oil holes on the bar to mimic the profile and feed angle of the stihl bar, I'm not sure whichever or whatever was the issue but I've been out today and milled for 3-4 hrs and there was no sign of any heat on bar, saw felt much better when cutting so hopefully whatever it was is sorted. As for oil consumption I tend to top off as I fuel but will probs go the other way and try to keep an eye on it in case flow drops off again. Thanks for the input

Maybe so but we are talking say 2mm on stihl and 3mm approx so not major Just thought I'd mention it. Oil flow from powerhead was good and as the pump has a given delivery volume/capacity/pressure capability (as I understand it) the difference in size unless huge will have little affect. End of day all it has to do is get it into groove and chain will carry it on its way. If the stihl rolomatic oils diffently/ better then ill know the current combo is not working well together mind you that is only a 36 inch bar and current one is 42 which should make very little difference id have thought. Aux oiler I think for milling will be route to go.

If it's only had a few hours use, then may I inquire as to whether you that oiled the new chain before putting it on the new bar? If not, then it could be that the dry chain rubbing in the bar when first used without being properly oiled has caused heat damage somewhere causing the bar and chain to oil badly. Hi yeah top groove was well oiled and chain then run by hand to set tension. I was at strathbogie saws today and have picked up a stihl 36 inch rolomatic bar and crosscut chain to try and see if oiling is any better. Spoke to Pete up there and he was very helpful and offered to lend me a stihl bar for free rather than buy to try if I needed. I measured and compared all the oil ways to the stihl bar and if anything the Sugihara has bigger oilways. Regardless of this I reassembled the whole set up and ran the saw with bar end near a sheet of A4 oiling was poor compared to my 661 on a 36 inch bar which was leaving definitive lines of oil on the paper instantly when revved. I ran the 880 with brake on and on tickover on the bench the oil is pushing out fine from the oilway. Im just gonna stick an auxiliary oiler on for milling but It will be interesting to see how it oils with a stihl bar when the time comes.

Hi First thing I did was strip and. Clean saw and bar etc, all oilways were clear, I ran powerhead only and got good flow from the outlet, another post mentions the possibility of a valve/vacuum issue so maybe that's something to look at. Mind you as I've said saw is only a few hrs of use old. I'll get back to it tomorrow and see how it goes.

Hi Squaredy Thanks for the input. That's kind of what I was hoping to hear. A few cracks etc I'm totally fine with The timber itself is a load of oversize stuff cut at 4.8m. There should be no problem getting at least a couple each of the 6x6 and 8x8 beams from some of the larger pieces,Plus I should have the advantage of having spare beams to choose from if some move to much. Max beam length i need is 4.2m. I've attached a couple of images of something along the lines of what hopefully we will end up with and of the logs themselves.

Hi all Looking for some opinions on the merits/cons when cutting Douglas fir beams for a timber frame ie free of heart or heart centred, I've been reading up as much as I can as I intend to cut the beams myself. Trees have been down for over a year. just throwing this out there for any advice/knowledge that's about. Cheers

Cheers for the replys guys. I think I'll give the aux oiler a go to tell truth. Regarding the running in the 661 has only ever milled and has done hundreds of hours with no probs but I tend to back off and not run it flat out. 880 was bought to do the same and has not been maxed out whilst working. Myself and the kids have spent a lot of yrs racing/rebuilding 2 and 4 stroke mx bikes/ quads so I'd say I have a fair degree of mechanical sympathy. But I'll take that on board ref the 880 and let it burn through a few tanks before using it again. There was no bark or dirt on the log. Sparks and noise was I'd say from a dry bar and chain. Clamps holding the bar are well away from groove and there was no deformity on bar when it was off saw. Oregon chain oil is what I'm using and have for years with no problems.

Hi Cheers for the reply chain tension was spot on and this occurred within approx 20 inches of first cut commencing. I mentioned the steps I took in initial post ie cleaned oil holes and bar groove ran powerhead on its own to check oiler etc . Saw has literally done 2 hrs from new same with bar and chain was brand new out of box but I'll check that today. Regarding the wood being milled, it was a piece of dead elm not super hard. The comparison I'm making is with the 661 and a 36 inch stihl bar I know how much oil I get off that and how it feels even when being pushed hard. I'll take a look at it again today and see how it goes.

Hi Guys First off merry Xmas to all etc etc Doing some milling today just to get out of the house for a couple of hours, virtually new 880 and 42 inch Sugihara bar with Oregon milling chain, timber to be milled was a piece of elm approx 32-34 inch diameter. Set up and initial milling went ok but pretty soon into the cut I noticed a couple of tiny sparks from chain and tone changed. Stopped milling and checked the the chain/bar noticed evidence of heat with bluing on leading edge of bar. I did a vertical cut at end of milling cut to remove the piece and check for steel etc but found nothing. Proceeded to strip and clean saw and bar, groove and oil ways were ok I ran the saw powerhead only and the oil flow was good ( Set at max) whilst I had bar off I used a burr grinder to slightly radius the face that goes onto the oil feed on the saw just as a precaution and to allow better oil flow. Everything was reassembled and ran up. I offered bar end up to some new 4x2 to check for oil off bar end and found virtually zero oil spray. I've done plenty with a 661 with up to a 36 inch bar and never had an issue, just curious if from others experience is the 880 oiler ok for longer bars etc. I'll check tomorrow with vernier to make sure holes line up spot on for bar and powerhead oil ways. Bar and chain came from rob on this site. Cheers

Hi Yeah it is something I've considered but I think for now the convenience of having the petrol motor and the amount of use planned would outweigh any advantages of running 3 phase etc. There are some good mills out in Poland at reasonable prices, couple of engineers on boat I work on are polish and they were helping me out when seeing what was out there. There was what seemed a copy of a woodmizer with hydraulics etc 3 phase at very decent money ??.

Cheers for all the advice guys, sometimes you just need a shove in the right direction. I was as I've said dreading doing it with an Alaskan. Anyway spoke to Chris today at woodlands UK and pretty much made my mind up on what direction to go, only question left is 130 or 126 with the 14hp option. Chances are the 126 would do all I ever need. He mentioned the 130 is being slightly heavier/tougher built ??? Anyone here had hands on with both and willing to offer any input ? I was also wondering if there are any members on here around the Aberdeenshire area with either the 125/130 set up, be handy to see one up and running with some hrs on it etc

FAC covers rifles, multi shot shotguns and over 12ftlb air rifles or air weapons as they like to call them up here. I have an FAC and a shotgun licence and last year I had to add the air rifle licence to run with them. Firearms licensing officer whom visited to check security for my 5th renewal was of the opinion it was a complete waste of time as is always the case it would only be the law abiding that would adhere to the legislation. As for SNP they are indeed in the business of controlling and interfering as the crazy scheme for having our kids a nominated by the state guardian showed.

Valid points in particular the cost of used and the resale value. when I'm earning that means I'm away normally either offshore or overseas so whilst time to complete the jobs I have lined up is not pressing the actual time I have at home is something else. The 500 loss is easy to stomach I guess when a days hire for a woodmizer with operator is 400-450.

Hi disregard that request for the number etc, just had a quick look online and got his contact details thanks