neiln
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Everything posted by neiln
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just over done it again 2 pieces of pine, on smallish one moderately large,added to a stove with merely embers. vents open for about 2 mins to get good flames but then shut as much as i can. I suspected the laarger lump was 'fat wood' full of resin as it was heavy. Hmm, seems so. flue thermometer is now right round as far as it goes and ir/laser thermometer reads 465C if i shine that at the flue. its good stuff this pine, if rather over potent. I'm starting to think I'd swap the 15+m3 of oak still in the pile for pine if i got the chance.
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My source is the Lars mitting book, Norwegian wood.
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I was thinking about the firewood demand as gas prices rise. We expect the price cap to rise significantly in April so next winter the cost of gas could be several times what they were. At that price wood will be slightly cheaper as a fuel. If I were a firewood seller I would be thinking about preparing higher volumes and working on ways to shift higher volumes without investing loads. Maybe a leaflet with every delivery/email to every current customer to put the thought in their heads and offers like, 'take green wood from march to August and self dry, get dried wood at the same/discounted price from January to march'. For those not taking up they offer then a 20-30% price rise, the wood will still be a cheap form of heating
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Law in Norway to have a wood stove (or at least an alternative heating source) as protection from catastrophe in the event of a several day power cut.
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I'm burning lots of pine currently, not sure which but it's very good. I CSS it in lockdown #1 so it's well dry. Very resinous, lots of 'fat wood' which burns insanely hot and for much longer than you'd imagine. I'd be very pleased to get more, very pleased.
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The met office seem to agree Long range forecast WWW.METOFFICE.GOV.UK Our long range forecast (which is updated on a daily basis) provides an indication of how...
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That is the issue, can't shut it down to slow it. It runs at ramming speed only. Like wise 1 log often doesn't burn well but if I reload early 1 can work. Only trouble is this super dry but resinous pine...I put one on earlier and still hit 420C! It was a super knotty piece, fatwood.
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seasoned yew, aka depleted uranium
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I had both stoves going all day yesterday. Not because it was super cold, although it wasn't warm, but to warm the house back up after a few days away. Burning some 20 month seasoned pine and some of its a bit resinous and nuclear. I had one stove at 450C on the flue temp after one reload. It's survived though, thankfully! I'm trying to do more frequent reloads of a single log at a time since 2 can just be too much. Back to single stove evening ops until the weekend but the look.
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Astrolux mf01. It is well made and bright, very, very very very bright
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Keep your vents open when the stove isn't in use and it should dry. I keep meaning to squirt a bit of wd40 around the inside of mine when I'm done burning in spring.... But never remember.
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I've had 8-10 fires so far but it's sunny and mild again so hopefully won't need the matches again until the end of the week. Swept the flues in September for the first time in 2 years, just light powdery soot, just over an ash pan full in each. Not bad, and that's after 22m3 through the two (total).
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30 cube in the garden, 2.5 at mum's, I think we will manage
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If your generally fit and healthy then working smart and an as axe can be great, exercise, reasonably quick, cheap. That said, £150 gets an electric log splitter which works well if a bit slow, and I've spent they and more on axes now! There's plenty of technique and tips that you can learn for hand splitting, here or YouTube. I've been at it 7 years now, so fairly practised, know the different wood and what it needs, know a few tricks for awkward bits, have multiple different axes that helps a bit, and know when to just noodle a lump with the saw! I enjoy it though, done about 32 M3 over the last 2 years, not bad for a home owner non pro.
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If an axe isn't for you then definitely get a splitter of some kind. But bet aware, it's often the lifting of logs or bending over that is the back breaking part not necessarily the axe swinging. Different techniques like splitting on the ground or using a tyre to keep splits in place, and use of a hookaroon or pickaroon can help. Also technique and experience and the right axe for the job help immeasurably!
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It sounds to me like drawing the air from the room would be best for you. If the first construction is of the age where it needs the ventilation, then vent! My own 1930s semi is similar. Solid walls which can be quite cold, built with 5 fireplaces and a range, when I moved in 13 years ago it was quite damp at times as over the years the c/h had replaced the fires and the air bricks and the house blocked up. I put two stoves in and opened up all the air bricks and the place is much much drier. The weather is very very humid at the moment though, I'm getting condensation on the inside of the double glazed windows which is a bit unusual. It'll soon cool a bit more, and with the stoves the house will soon be much drier. Wife and I really notice it if we are lazy and put the c/h on, how the humidity climbs quite quickly.
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I'm voting for the stuffed to the gills with crud like the turkey at Christmas. Pop the clutch drum off and clean clutch thoroughly,
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Set the tension ok on a cold chain and it won't be so loose warm as to be a problem. That's what I do anyway.
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Shell v power, Esso synergy supreme (both are actually 99+Ron and Esso guarantee e free in much of the country, shell don't and haven't for a couple of years). BP ultimate is also a 97 Ron E5 fuel. Not sure if Texaco have a super grade.
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Yes you're correct, I should have said that.
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Yeah, it deserves to be back together and in use!
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Anti vibration mounts. Husky are known for all smooooooooothness as they use proper springs unlike the German creamsicles. Less important on a small saw, but if at all sensitive you'll notice the buzz. Gloves help.
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Don't grab the chain and pull backwards on the bar and you'll never slip off and take a chunk out a finger, and gloves aren't needed. What's the AV on the 135? If it's springs, maybe try without, if it's rubber then get gloves.
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Well I wouldn't choose to run the marathon in them, but I've had no trouble wearing them for a couple of tanks of fuel through the saw plus a bit of shifting logs and tidying the mess.
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Again, he's a homeowner and unlikely to walk far in them or wear them for long. I have never had any discomfort from mine. Gloves yeah I know. I understand some research into injuries in the American forestry industry led to the glove design and patch on the back of the left hand. Possibly a case of stats being abused? You'll want something on your hands when handling logs though I'm not sure any chainsaw gloves are very robust as they are usually soft goatskin.
