drinksloe

Do canadians not put the gub in upside down? So 4-6" below would be like us putting back cut halfway up gub Must admit never really tried to make a tree jump over anything. Generally if i have to fell a tree/limb over a fence i will cut a high open gub over fence hieght and try to leave hinge so it will hold the stem while i break it down. But generally not a good idea to fell trees over fences u don't want to flatten Anytime i've screwed up up and put back cut below gub cut it generally always sits back even if it wouldn't normally sit back if back cut was above and can be a pig to wedge over. Can see the theory behind it for winching dead stems but not really a job for beginners never heard of puting the stick in before, will that not be the same as cutting a vey acute small gub? I experimented with cutting very small gubs when cutting for skyline to try and get every hinge to break, but found on quite small trees (less than 12-18") it would sometimes support the tree and not snap off at all. For a begginner i'd say always cut above the gub, the nearer they are to level the stronger the hinge will be, but if u cut too low it well often sit back on ur saw.

Out of couriosity has the hose been extended/raised? In ur 1st photo looks a very clear difference in brick colour directly below window, almost looks like they've added and extra 3ft to house when built upstairs. But does seem unlikely, just a really strange join the way the colours mix/meet. And while u always get big variation between facing brick colours (why u always mix a few packs together) the way they are joined in looks unusual if just down to not mixing packs. I would of expected odd diffrent coloured 's along those bottom courses or darker 1's when they put there corners up (as often build them first to get ur lines/levels) I'm not overly familiar with subsidence issues, but like many things in life, if u've recognised the problems u can make an offer at the right money and go in with ur eyes open. Occasionally u will still get ur fingers burned thou The house obviouly has issues that would cause most folk (possibly lenders too) to walk away so it ur a bit handy and trust all the reports and they have picked up all the problems correctly u could be well positioned to get the house fairly cheap. But if ur relying on trades to do most if ur work be aware it will cost a lot so u need to get it cheap, those tv programmes where they do ouss up for peanuts wish i could find there tradesmen/suppliers

Quite clever, 1st time i've seen that sort off thing. In pracitce is it not easier just to have a hand winch/or tirfor in van? I'd be worried that even with the increased load it was still not enough to pull the tree over and then u've no where to go

Was going to say exact same, some of the subby boys are running tractors for contractors at silage time for next to nothing, all they get is the diesel and any breakdowns/punctures is paid for themselves. A good few years ago i was getting a higher hourly rate for myself fencing than a famer mate was getting running his tractor doing silage work. Throu the winter doing hedge cutting most of the contractors are just keeping their men employed with little profit, rates are so low. Will depend on the type of work, possibly if ur working for horsey folk with more cash than sense might get better rates, but would be surprised if many farmers would use a quad when u can use a tractor instead. Think u can hire quads for 50ish a day + ur time +fuel+ transport etc

Aye some of the things u done as a youngster scares the hell out of u when u think about it now. But usually u never knew any better and were a lot braver/more indestructable Aye i could see that happening with Larch, not cut a massive lot of it as generally npt planted on outsides of woods (or atleast not in this area, think soil generally to wet/peaty) and usually doesnae get big or hairy enough to need hand cut. I imagine larch will be a more similar tree to the american red woods u usually see barbers chairing from usa.

U do get some types of clothes that are tick repellant, rovince is 1 and gets good reviews. Doubt they make cutting trousers thou. They will make base layers stuff thou. I imagine u all alrerady know about Lymes disease, if not have a read up on it, quite a bad disease that will floor u for life and relatively easily prevented, avoid getting bit and taking them of the right way (ie no vaseline or lighters or randomly pulling with fingers/tweezers)

Not neccessarily a No, althou quite possible. U will need a bat survey (which may be the norm now anyway for building/roofing works) i was quoted 1200-1600 for survey + if bats u need a licence more cash and to get licence u will probably have to do some mitiagtion/damage limitation depending on bat numbers/type of roost etc. Even striping slates of a roof if u find more than 3 bats whole job has to stop until u can get a licensed bat worker to handle them, althou more likely need a licence etc so could take some time The wildlfife trust i'm involved with built a quality centre/hide on the reserve and put bat access into loft against my advice, now got bats living there. But if they ever need any work done to roof will need a bat survey and as present a licence and god knows wot else I'm about to start a renovation for myself, thankfully/amazingly no bats present as it had been left for last 20 years empty had plenty of access for bats and u always see them in general area. Going to turn surrounding woodland into a small nature reserve but going to purposely manage it to attempt not to encourage bats, should be in favour of them as like seeing them and they eat midges but far too much legisalation involved and too many people making a lot of money of it. Even made some bat boxes but will not be putting them up If u make timber bat boxes as u use untreated wood when box rots/falls off tree, tree is no longer protected as no bats there now so if u want to do something make sure its quite temp so u have options in future. Completely wrong but thats the way the legislation is, u'd have to be mad to encourage them.

Quite a few years ago done some climbing/felling on a big job, helping an old boss out with odd days, he was subbing to a big national company lots of over the top meaningless H&S (yet they had no idea about chainsaws and some of the worst safe working practices ever invloving saws) Long story short had to climb some potential 'bat trees' identified by a bat worker who was waiting on doing his climbing ticket and stuff stuff in cracks/holes etc where bats could potentially roost incase trees needed to come down at a future date, but where hoping they wouldnae need to come down. Was a couple of big severly rotten trees (obviously prime bat habitat) and they wanted the trees sectioned rather than straight feeled to protect any bats that may or may not be inside. I refused to do it, above my experience level and didnae have the equipment to do it safely, or at least for me to do it safely. Lowering stuff of an already rotten stem which is also supporting u, possibly could be done by a better/more experienced climber/crew but i wasnae going to attempt it. Not actually sure wot they eventually done, wether a straight fell (that i reccommended) or got a better climber/crew in? I suspect the first as be a lot cheaper Often the best practice is to attempt to lower 'batty' type trees to try and minimise any risk, which is fair enough but usually the fact their 'batty' means they are rotten, big cracks or hollow ie generally structurally weak/unsound althou not always the case

I'm similar to Spruce never seen a barbers chair with soft woods even when leaning or heavy to 1 side, mibee too knotty in this country? As most of clips seem to be soft woods in usa. Most of the barbers chairs i've seen/experienced were in medium sized hard woods 1-3ft ish butts and usually sycamore, willow or ash (but never cut much chestnut). Depends the size of tree ur cutting (i've never thought about using it for a back leaner) but i usually put my wedges in at 10 and 2 rather than 12 and usually work 2 or more wedges. So in theory u could/would have space to cut/bore the holding piece out. I'm guessing SP is generally feeling outsiders so will generally be decent sized timber usually 3+ft butts, so u should have room. Must admit i just usually keep it simple and cut it so i can wedge it as i go I would of thought if u've got a wedge in either side u'd be safe enough to cut the back hold without it trapping ur saw. But suppose it depends on tree/wieght/lean and how much of a back hold u left on it. Be a pain if it pinched bar before u got it fully cut off as struggle to wedge the bar out if timber still holding. Most soft wood cutters i know always carry a spare bar/chain in piece bag for when something like that happens, saves a lot of walking back for spare saws, u soon learn:001_smile:

It's just the names that have totally confused me Got a feeling if i type hairy muff cut into google my computer will explode:001_tongue: In my opinion its more about ur common sense and eye for where the wieght is and having the 'feel' for where saw/bar is, no good naming cuts if u can't tell when to use them (not saying that is case here). Worked with young guys in past who could name things i hadnae a clue about but i wouldnae trust with nail scissors. I was just taught ur classic gub/felling cut, a cut for felling forward leaning (ur dogs tooth type) and back leaning a split level and ur letter box type? for removing a hinge on stuck up trees. Honestly cannae mind them having names just what their uses are In normal forestry work really only use straight felling cut and dog tooth, very rare to use a split level as tree usually to large so can fit a wedge/s in Last time i done a ticket i was just getting assesed for windblow and was horrified by the standard of boys on the med tree course i piggy backed on for a day, cutting throu hinges and had no idea where bar was in tree. When i done my early tickets had/advised to wait 2 yrs before doing med trees after doing small unless u were experienced. These boys had never picked a saw up before done small/coss cut 1 week and straight onto med/wind blow the next. Most had no feeling for saws or wieght in trees, and they had a top notch instructor just far too much to take in in 1/2 weeks. Flat tyre have a look for clips of trees actually barbers chairing u'lll get the idea why u want to leave the back attached. Trees under pressure will do it too, like a small stemed tree with others leaning on it, just gort to have ur wits about u

Cheers james. Actually done my 32 years ago, probably before all these cuts had names. Lst time i was shown about sap wood cuts u cut/scribed a short cut directly below hinge either side, mibbee 4" or more so not weakening too much but would break off instead of holding and splitting the timber. More for large hairy outside softwoods But then again mibee calling sap wood cuts the wrong thing. Think most of my cutting techniques/work practices are now frowned upon by fisa

Sorry to be boring, cannae think of an other inuendo:thumbdown: Is there a site that shows all the different cuts and names? Recognise some decriptions but never had names for any cuts really.

Have a look on auto salvage websites and proper auctions. Some motors not making an awful lot. My last/present 1 is an insurance write off, just had a couple of major body work bashes on it, panel beat it myself with help from my tifor either welding nuts onto body or drilled holes to could attach winch cable to pull bashes out. I'll never get a job as a panel beater,but it doesnae look to bad for a work motor and was cheap

Now u've really lost me felix:001_smile: Is there somewhere u can look up all these different names of cuts? Last time i done my fisa was with a bunch of old woodcutters and was just before it really came in so instructor was keeping it simple Apologies googled dogstooth cut and it is wot i tought a back strap cut was. I must have got it muddled up with the split level for back leaners.

I'd say the indivdual pick up's condition/miles etc is more important than wot badge it has. Only 1 i'm not keen on is navara's, had 1 which was ok but some garages refused to take it as a trade in due to the d22? (03 plate) engine, if done more than 100k miles u should be ok thou, tend to go around 50-70k I think new shape are quite soft compared to other 4x4's I don't mind the l200's althou the old square shape the cabs are rubbish and no room in back seats, new bubble shape are far better cabs, loads of room. L200's are most popular pick up in my area by miles, not the best but cheapest, but never hear of that many big problems with them

Cheers rmac. So wots the dog tooth cut then? I was sure last time i done my fisa they called the split level cut the dog tooth cut? But i may be wrong. Not really up on my terminology of cut names Ps. I thought that too rmac about boring the gub, only time i've ever done it

Going to ask a bit of a stupid question here I see a couple of folk have mentioned a dogs tooth cut (i take it that is the cut where do back cut from both sides so u can put ur breaker bar in) and leaning trees. I thought they were only for smaller backwards leaning trees so tree does not sit on ur bar and u have no room to get a wedge/bar in plus saw. As being mentioned on a back strap cut thread, do folk use them for forward leaning trees? I would of thought the side bit left as final cut might be too far round side to stop tree splitting/barbers chairing esp on larger trees

Thats a scary 1 matty. Scares the hell out of me, only had it happen a few times and a few times caused by over enthusiastic winching. Seen it happen to far more experienced cutter than me too Not sure i'm the best at explaining, but basically on a leaning tree (willow ash, sycamore, chestnut, are ur classics) the weight of tree/gravity takes over before when the hinge is still to large/wide, so top of tree will move while hinge/middle of bottom is not moving, sending splits down the stem. When it goes very back end will pivot and fly up pretty quickly almost taking ur head off, tree often then spins on the pivot point (looks about 20ft up in photo) and can roll either side, just got to hope u've ran to the right side (why so important to clear ur emergancy exits, 45 both sides) Dunno if there is clip online of barbers chairs happening, mibee easier to understand when u see it. A very useful cut on leaning trees, infact only cut for leaners (unless u put a far largr gub than normal in)

I take it a back strap cut is when u leave the tag at the back? Esp on leaning trees. Quite important esp if ur working with more brittle hard woods that are leaning (or got a muppet on the winch, who tensions without being told). If u cut the normal way at some point gravity will take over if tree leaning and thats why ur barbers chair happens, and can split and roll anyway or hit u with back see sawing upwards pretty quickly Not nice to be cutting normally and see/feel the grain opening up along the stem as ur praying for ur saw to cut faster to get enough out for hinge for it to work. In the old days the old school cutter would tie chains round a trunk so it could not split, that was when they laid the gub with axes and back cut with big cross cut saws, so could not bore in. Another cut in soft woods at this time of year is ur sap wood cuts, bore in some cuts well below hinge each side, so it will snap off and not hold on and split the good timber at base of stem which often happens with large soft woods esp in spring time

Will depend on size of the job and type of fencing (is it deer fencing) But u can soon rattle wire up failry quick, has he posted it too or just strainers Are the tres in the ground but not fenced off then? I doubt any reputable fencer would come in to a job that alread has strainers put in, he's putting his reputation on strainers someone else put in? Looks dodgy from both sides. He might wonder why its not finished have u paid fencer etc? Same as urself i'd imagine doubt u'd readily take on a planting job half done Wether u use him again is another question but as moores said bet just trying to do as much as possible before weather breaks again

Would the rate not vary between jobs/timber? Esp with skyline usually the real brown end of the stick iimagine can be quite tricky and could be a massive variation in production, prob mainly due to site steepness rather than timber size

Is most ancient woodland not already protected by SSSi's? Sometimes protecting it can cause more harm than good, esp if landowner is already managing/protecting it, SSSi or other legislation can make it more ackward to do the work needed.

1 of the last meeting i went to they were wanting to prosecute some farmer for cutting a tree down and phoning up the bat group to ask wot u do with a couple of bats he found, not sure if dead or hibernating. The way legislation is at moment doing more harm than good, i'm involved with setting up a wee nature reserve, but will not be making any bat habitat or putting up any boxes just because they're such a PITA if u encourage them and then wot to manage the tree there in. If u follow the rules ur off ur head to stick any semi permanet boxes up, atleast with homemade untreated timber ones they will rot fairly quickly and tree/box no longer protected

Most of the cutting i done for contractors was a day rate. And i got the same rate when felling for the skyline. i only done the felling never had anything to do with the skyline itself, often it was not on the job and i ws working well infront Think the few folk that operate lines down here just pay the boys day rates and same rates as if cutting/brashing for harvester

To be honest if u have to use it and it saves ur life i doubt u'll be worried about buying another 1! Small price to pay to save ur life. 2 hill walkers died near me recently after being out overnight and while quite a high area loads of farm hill and quad tracks about and quite a lot of houses nearby for a remote area. Would have been rescued in minutes rather than over night, same with the keeper that survied up cairngorns, would off saved mountin rescue a hell of a time Been a while since i looked into 1 for myself but think the mc murdos last about 8yrs then u have to get it serviced/battery changed