Daveyboy

Sorry to point it out but you've pruned it into the shape of a trampoline! How on earth....

Take out the dead, the diseased, the dying and the dangerous. No more than 30% to be removed in any one year -that's the target. But you just might have to go over the top. And take out any canker, crossing and/or rubbing branches too. It's a balance which you do in pruning to determine the amount of woody growth and size of next years crop. Figure out if you're going to have a wine glass shape at the end of it or a central leader. Your first tree looks wine glass and the third a central leader - by the looks of it. The second is going to be odd because of it's location. Don't be scared to offer to take it out and plant a new one. What shape do you want? People get attached to their trees ("It was Grand-dad's and the apple was given to him by his Aunt Agatha" or some romantic notion about Robert of Loxley - weird, I know but wtf.) but when they know they don't last for ever... New trees aren't expensive. Buds. There are two types - fruit and growth. You can reduce next years growth by rubbing off the growth buds ut you won't see them until February or so. It's a bit early for pruning. It is a job for a cold day because you're not supposed to interfere with the sap - infections get in. If you can, identify the tree. The fruit gives it away but 99% certain it won't be grown from seed - all commercially sold/grown trees are grafted onto rootstocks. The type of rootstock determins the potential size and life of the tree. So don't expect a tiny tree on an M25 or a giant out of an M27. And if you can make a record, then you've got a days work every year. Make sure the scion is above the ground and not covered by wet grass - keep it clean. Save the bigger branches for burning because the smoke they give off is brilliant. I've smoked sausages, hams, cheeses - and it's good on a barbie too. Tons to know - you won't get it all in one post, i'm afraid!

Plus 1 for rescue remedy. But use it sparingly because the effect lessens with multiple applications. Two drops on your dogs tongue should do it.

I've seen trees like that live for years - still producing fruit too! Most of what damage I saw was caused by animals like sheep and horses. So the cause may be different but the effect will be similar. How's the rest of the tree? Did it give a crop this year? Canker anywhere? When was it last pruned - it should be annually. It'll need pruning in the cold of the new year anyway so i'd hang on until then and have another look.

Wow! Never in a million years will I get to do that! Well done you.

I agree you might not have to and in the same way, you don't need to unload a gun either.

I am sat in front of my log burner, buring ash I felled 2 days ago. And it is roasting in here. I know it's only a poem, and written by some daft ape, but as they say - no smoke without fire.

Dear youngster. I remember when petrol came in 2, 3 and 4 star qualities. My Dad used to get by on less than a fiver's worth a week. And with these grades of fuel came Redex and other additives to make up for it's lack. Engines were designed to run one type of 'petrol' and what was being sold was a differnt type of 'petrol'. Sold as the same thing but it wasn't. It was something else. Then came unleaded. Which was probably the worst thing to ever happen to Benzine based productes. And with it came 'lead replacements'. And at the same time came 'low sulpher diesel'. To get around modern diesel, add half a liter of mineral 2 stroke to a full tank - it will stop your engine from sounding like a bag of rocks. It lubricates the valves - what the sulpher used to do. Then came Ethenol. And most of your 95RON is at least 10% Ethanol - Which is known as E10. E5 is - well you're the smart arse, you figure it out. Then came all the branding of 'petrol' and now you don't have any idea as to what you're buying. Momentum, Premium, VPower, Supreme - you don't know the difference, do you? So the reason why I drain the tank, if the saw is going to be left for any period of time, is just good practice. It's a good habit to be have. Why? Because fuel changes, that's why, but habits don't. And engines, which pretty much stay the same, were designed to run on one thing and that thing changes. Engine design changes, fuel changes and what we're looking for, and what we don't get, is consistency. Draining the tank takes away the risk. Did

Aspen, 4 star, Tesco's finest - it doesn't matter. If your saw is going to be left for any period of time, drain out the fuel and run it until it dies.

Green holly goes like fireworks.

Fronm a sentimental point, keep it. Grave yard and all that. Old folks, coffin dodgers, vicars and the like appreciate the woody look, the fungi, the decay and the whole concept of getting old and death. But.... The fungi is a dead giveaway. (There's a joke in there somewhere) Unless it comes from a supermarket, in a sealed bag, mushroos are not my strong point. Someone will be along to identify it but Beech with fungi, to me, is pointing at the end of life. The heart of the tree is probably gone so I'd say take it out. Did PS - ready to be corrected!

What? Singing? That's Roy Bailey, isn't it?

Roy Bailey

Anybody running a 'Great Wall'? Looks very similar to an Isuzu Rodeo that I used to have.

Screwfix for DeWalt. And they've got a sale on...

Taking this one step further, if you could have a 7.5 tonner arb truck, with 4WD, which one would it be?

I've got a still MS261 as my main saw and after reading the horror stories about their needle bearings, I took it apart. The failing needle bearing - part no. 39 in your diagram - should be lubricated. Apparently it's a common failure on 261's so it's either because the spindle oscilates or poor maintenence. So I got some ZX1 grease, which I consider to be the finest there is, and put a smear on the spindle and some inside the bearing and some on the outside too. Put it all back together. At the same time, I dressed the bar, did the usual inbetween jobs/service and the difference is mega. Engine off the chain just spins around - you only need a good pull. A huge difference in performance. And why not? There's more to chainsaw maintenance than pouring chain oil in.

Life, and work is unpredictable. So you'd better be reliable. And keen, interested, easy to get on with, safe, self motivated and offer value for money. And it depends on what kind of service you are going to offer. Do you turn up with all your own kit? Own PPE? Transport? Just you or are you going to be a man with saw? Or are you a man with saw, chipper, chip truck, climbing kit and insurance? What's your offering and why should someone like me employ someone like you? What can you reasonably charge for a days work and is that going to be profitable for you? So think about what the market near you needs - what's missing? - and can you fill that gap? What's the distance you're prepared to travel? Whose going to do the books? How do you get the work? But if it works, and you're working 5 days a week, you should be earning more and if you organise your accounts right, end up with more dosh. Which is the real reason for going alone, isn't it? D

And this is what it always wanted to be. Gallery - Work - SCAM Spa

Speaking as someone who is ex-army... The story is that they were designed for the artillery boys. The tale is a little like the SA80 cockup. Designed for a purpose but the purpose wasn't really there and the design was flawed. Why they didn't by Heckler's instead of SA80's is beyond anybody's reasoning. RB's had a real handling problem, braking problems, going problems. A bit like the Isuzu Rodeo in a way - designed by an accountant. So they were built en-masse, delivered to the army and after a few lads were jailed for causing accidents, someone asked if it was in fact, the vehicles fault. The RB's were withdrawn and other things used. Things like Pinzgauers. Things like Alvis Stalwarts and Bedford 4 tonners. It's one of those things that you might really love. But, having driven one, I can put hand on heart and say 'never again'. But then again, I like Stihl chainsaws. I know a bloke on the Isle of Wight who had the only Lada 'cut and shut'. Try one! Buy it, run it for a while and if you like it, keep it. As the chinese say "he who doesn't taste, doesn't know".

What do you know about it, NiftySteve? Is it a good one or a bit of a dog? Let me know, pm style, because I might be interested. D

I think we've all done that...

Back to proper saws, don't go for a 171 - the MS181 is far more useful. For an extra twenty quid you get a bit more go, which you'll appreciate. The chain is quite thin - it's a 3/8 pico - but kept sharp, it will cut anything. It just takes a little longer than a bigger saw. But it will do it. And stay with a shorter bar. A longer bar will encourage you to take on jobs that are bigger than the saw is capable of - if that makes sense - and it's safer too. The 14" bar is well suited. Stay away from the 16". And Stihl chain oil seems to be a bit thinner than other brands. The thicker stuff maybe cheaper but it clogs up the delivery to the chain, which is where you want it. Final point, stay away from the quick chain tensioning nonsense - get one with a nut to tighten because it's hardly difficult to use, is it? David

Stihl MS181 with a 14" bar. A small saw that will tackle most jobs - I've taken a fallen Silver Birch apart with one - the wood is in the log burner as we speak. David

Are you up to date with your jabs?