ShooTa

its firewood is what it is

yep cant get a bloody tractor into the fields as its just tearing them up atm ...

cleave it do not saw it and it will last 2x as long (if not more) soak ends in a barrel of wood preserver for 2 weeks before putting into the ground OR cover with tar OR burn (lightly charred)

that or a bungie cord around a few rounds also works. take a tarp out if your in the woods that you can throw over your gear if it starts wetting it down - aslwell as gives you a dry place to sit. always have a spare pair of socks spare chains as said above. and a really bad one incase you need to work near old metal in tree/ Oh and always offer to sharpen a saw if you use one that is not yours - 9/10 times theyll turn you down but common curtesy.

oak posts when cleaved are the mutznutz - some still doing their job after 60 years here - sawn posts just dont keep the same way.

hes northumberland - look under peoples names.

can you not sell them yourself? - restack ?

for a maul - you have two choices - bargain basment placcy handle that you can mash the ..... out of - and replace when needed ,. OR a sexy gransfors maul - which not only is very very good but that if cared for (and for the price you will) you can pass on to your grandkids and they in turn to theirs. for a splitting axe either go oldschool and pickup an old elwell and re-handle it OR get a sexy x27. for being stiff and old and probably grumpy get a splitter.

have a fair number of western red cedars that im contemplating either getting boarded up or turning into posts/rails or similar -

yep just sticking out my oar to see if there are any Millers on here in North Wales - more specifically Denbighshire? and if so are you running a mobile mill or static and i guess ill stretch to those wonderous few with alaskan chainsaw ones too. thanks for reading and to those answering.

you can get a wonderful tape measure that helps work it out.

circa £300 for a mini mill? store under the kids beds or your attic?

due to finally having a real crack at our small woodland im thinking about future extraction routes etc. now we have a loading area for trucks and so on - but i want to create a landing area that is in the woodland to store lengths that can later be divided up for wherever. so to those who have done this log stack on steroids any ideal way to make the standing area? is it simply some good hardcore or do you put in special drainage etc?

LW how are you getting on with them? my concerns would be mainly once wet become vulnerable to squirrels/rabbits

ahhh but a logging horse is a stalwart not a fairy *wink* think crossfit athlete vs a footballer - footballers trip over blades of grass and have to be hospitalized/

very nice garden kit! and shocking for the time that im reading this. to keep this on the fun concept of narked delivery drivers any other horror stories of revenge?

Shows that all the global cooling caused by hot heads in london have caused !! it were much better in your day.... actually i guess assuming the tree has had a fair amount of direct sunshine its not been cold and is being watered well i presume it would get confused and go Oh spring!

thats a good score - so what will you do once youve let them dry/cure? make something yourself or sell on - and if so what avenues do you look for?

rather than edit as its a separate question logs and dry(seasoned) which to most on this board means less than 25% moisture reading on a moisture meter (via amazon for £17) and more about 20%. this takes different times depending on type of wood - hard/soft etc. Ash when felled in September - wind dried and then in the final months brought inside will season for the following winter. Oak will take usually 2 years. there are many many posts on seasoning wood - both on here and hearth.com and arborsite.com - but the 3 key tennants are :- get it off the ground (wood pallets) get it split ( smaller the better but dont go nuts - think your market) site your stack where it can get wind. siting your stacks for the best wind really helps reducing the seasoning time - and most people will top cover the wood come mid september to stop rain really getting into the stacks. re woodshed - some pron from hearth woodshed pr0n

to sharpen correctly - obviously best if an experianced guy shows you . failing that there is you tube the key is to get :- files that are the right size for your chain file guide thats for your bar and chain and a depth guage small flat file your local shop/where you bought your saw should have them all, failing that there are places like clarkforest who have them in bundle kits/ personally i dislike the file guide that fits all around your file - i prefer the small reversible ones that clip onto the chain/bar lastly when you buy your chain - it should say on the box the angles to sharpen/file at - whether it be 0 degrees of the vertical or 35 degrees and then for the horizontal - most good chains have a small line of indication for the correct cutting face. for how much you should sharpen - you get a feel for your saw but the first one is when your nice big sawchips turn into dust not chips. that and if you hit anything - every time you refuel is somewhat excessive imho - but a single file stroke done correctly i guess is keeping it honed - i tend to sharpen every 3-4 trees felled of serious size - more and say maybe 2x on a fully ringed up tree.

might see you if you go for phils course then.

i shall have to go out and take some photos Phils done about 7 or so courses to date - a few on one thinning - which although not finished due to all the wet weather preventing me and tractor pulling out the stems is looking far sweeter than it did before we began , and the one hes been working on recently is beggining to really shine. as is an old stand of w.red cedars that we did my large tree course on - but they are still in pole length as im still figuring out what to do with the buggers - shingles mebe or start splitting them up for stakes like they do in the USA or what - some will become a new wood shed area im thinking. the hardest part so far is man hands -aka its me and the occasional friend and my wonderful lady putting in time to burn brash and stack firewood. i noticed in a thread that getting 10 or so cubes of firewood is a good investment into getting a labourer - whichas yet due to the woodland not paying (other than large standards) could be the way forward, that and saving some pennies for a small logging trailer with hiyab - been looking at the riko ones (but atm cant even start the budget on any). as moving the wood to either roadside or to the yard is the tricky bit. thank you for the warm welcome.

doobin - good plan reguarding the labourer.

ouch - thanks for the heads up -

cor you fellas wiv your smarts - we still live in a shoe eating leather and all/