SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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Likely, at least in Europe - but anyway you can swap those things around as you like - it doesn't really matter what the saws originally came with.
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That top end may no be an improvement over the 71cc one, unless it is ported. A 372xp clutch cover likely can fix the issues with the chain tensioner and outer dawg. Just remove the front tensioner and put it on. Check that the chain can move freely.
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3/8", and try an 8-pin if the bar is short.
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If you want a slower, heavier and less agile 60cc saw - be my guest, and get a 6100!
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The 55dl 16" bars really are about 14 1/2" - but still a little long on that saw. Personally, I would never buy such cheap bars and chains - it is very likely crap made in a Chinese back yard - or something like that.....
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Those 3005 mount 18" bars are barely over 16" in reallity.
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I don't think you need that to do a basic resetting to factory specs, but I'm not 100% sure?
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One of the new and better Echo models, but still not quite there regarding either power output or weight, specially when compared to the 560xp/2260 (no, I haven't used one - this is based on availiable info).
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That isn't always possible, it depends on what is wrong, and if there are availiable metal in the critical places.
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Unless you count -10c as really cold, that is!
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As it looks to me, 91VX is still made, even though it is not offered on all markets.
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You can always have a dealer reset the AT to factory settings, if needed - or buy the equipment to do it yourself.
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That is what I assume as well.
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Some times, yes - but I don't usually cut when it is really cold.
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There are some reasons other brands have problems keeping up in these "strato/autotune" days, but they really always had - although Dolmar did put out some good models now and then (think 120Si, 115ih and 7900). Echo always seemed unable to port a cylinder reasonably well, until may be on a couple of recent models....
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I have never needed the carb heating up here - and not all "G" saws have it. Some times it varies between different markets if the carb heating is part of the package.
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A common issue with most Echo saws is a low power to cc and weight ratio - but there allegedly are exceptions. It may have helped that they were more or less merged with Shindaiwa (same owner) - but Shinny never was stellar in that regard either (except in some very "optimistic" specs sheets). Anyway, there are signs that Echo is improving their saw designs.....
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More like a year, as I remember it...
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I'd take the 560xpg for an 18" bar, although the 550 also is capable of it. Definately take the heated handles - they are great with wet gloves as well as in cold weather!
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Those years varied a bit between different markets etc.
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The 365xt is a 71cc saw - same as the 372xpxt, but with flow limiters in the transfers (easy to remove, if you know what to do). It is a bit stronger than the 365 Special even stock, but it also is a bit heavier.
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The depth gauge bit is what I mostly use as well. I prefere to file freehand on the cutters, unless there are rocked out teeth.
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If you stay with the "specs" trough the "life" of the chain, the rakers will soon be too high, after you have sharpened the chain a few times. As the distanse between the cutting edge and the raker increases, the raker need to be taken progressively more down, to uphold the "angle of attack". Because of that, I use and recommend progressive raker guides, like the Husky plates and the Carlton FOP. Use the "soft" setting on the Husky plates, if you want the rakers a little lower - then you start at .030", instead of the often recommended .025" (with regular .325 and 3/8" chain).
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No, it weighted like a 70cc saw, a was a relatively weak 50cc saw - it is an ill concieved relic of the past, definately not the future! It happened around 10 years ago, if my memory serves.
