Woodcrafter

Yeah I like it painted looks great.

Thanks Bill

Thanks Goodpig.

I also think they're going to have to change that junction into a car park. Otherwise that's going to cause some accidents.

I just get blown away by the vision you have being able to look at that stem and be like yeah I can do that there this here and all the rest of it, it's amazing mate really is!

Thanks Tommy that means a lot coming from a true master.

I know we are all bored of seeing owls but I get asked to carve them. I have little time to spend trying stuff I want to carve. So anyway here's my today's effort.

Excellent work! Now there's a good reason to visit Ireland again!

Had some beech in the stove last night 1st time I've burnt beech in it, one log burnt for a good 3hrs couldn't believe how long it was burning for it wasn't particularly big at all. Anyway it pleased the wife as we've got a log store full of it and another 6 ton sacks full. Last year I burnt cherry hawthorn and ash with a bit of cedar through the mix as well. The cedar threw out lots of heat and burnt well. Being in the game I never really worry about what to burn as I'm lucky to have an endless supply but beech at the mo is winning as a favourite.

Doontheweather on the other thread is looking for a 170 to bill.

I think bills got a couple of 170's forsale!

Fencers use carving bars for mortising the fence post for the rails. You want a nice light weight saw like the Stihl ms170 with a dime tip carving bar.

Hahahaha yes I've been in a few spots where I've thought to myself I shouldn't be doing this and sorted myself something a little more stable. "I get paid for my carvings as part of my job so I don't have any need to finish quickly to chase the next commission." How does this work then do you not do any commission work?

Yes I was a little brief I often forget I'm not always talking to regular saw users. But like to try and help I was trying to think of a good way of explaining about the kick back zone. After reading yours I was like yep that's it.

That's that's a much better explanation. 👍👍👍

Yes the kick back zone is tiny you can plunge cut without a worry.

Yes Bills right. You could put a quarter tip on it. There's a recent thread where someone's asked a question regarding different size saws. For detailing with a dime tip you need a smaller saw.

Carving bars are less likley to kick back.

Hahahahaha excellent! Yes plus they would need to be made from hard wood!

Cheers I can't take the credit for them there's thousands on google images. And I've seen a fair few on here!

Hi Thought i would give the Christmas tree idea ago as I've got a December carving demo. Building up some stock and thought I'd share I'm going to give them a bit of a blow torching for more detail.

Arboricultural Association

Yep loads of cut and hold don't really ever use a secondary anchor point unless it's a monster. I do from time to time go through phases of aspiring to be the perfect arborist but that's generally around the 2yr re assessment 😜😎.

Always try to gauge what you are going to take off in approx meters look at the trees general shape the curve at the sides where it is possibly unbalanced at all in envisage the shape you would like to create. As said before start at the top. When choosing a suitable growth point to cut back to look all around you baring in mind other available growth points when you have decided that you can see enough available at the approximate amounts you want to take off you can start. Try and use your growth points as your guide from one to another to create a flowing canopy line if you have to shorten your growth point slightly to keep it in shape do so it will only annoy you when you get down and you have one whispy bit poking out. I like to keep the tree in a natural as possible almost as if it hasn't been touched to the untrained eye. Once you've started at the top and you are happy with a good few growth points around you and on your chosen path I generally like to go straight down choosing a line that I know I can get to as many points as possible from my chosen route. Don't struggle to get to pieces that you can get from other routes down. Also try not to reduce too much underneath areas where you haven't pruned above even if you think you I can get that and it's in shape and will look good there's nothing worse than cutting a branch above for it to snap off a growth point that you've left below. Any way try not too get down unless you are really unhappy you are going to slow down your day get yourself over tired. Keep at it you'll get better with each one and be reducing without too much thought in no time. Hope this has helped please excuse my spelling and punctuation. Phil

Ok cool cheers