TGB

What the building in the background? It's like an Esher thing, the steps appear to go nowhere.

The 445e was known for self slackening and throwing chains. The 450 is the same mechanism, so your problem doesn't surprise me. I just can't help you with a remedy.

The Stihl bars have a sealed sprocket bearing, whereas the Husky do not. The cheap Oregon ones work fine. Their just a bit messy when it comes to recharging the grease.

Don't know if they do utiliy but 'Usk Valley Training' are good and are based in Talgarth. [email protected]

Sunny and bright at first, a light drizzle falling now. But I'd welcome the drizzle over being pelted with stones and nail filled scraps of wood. Which did happen this afternoon. I wasn't sawing, so minimal PPE for the task in hand. Hence have now got injuries to face & hands; sodding school kids! Police have filed it as assault.

Pull cord here too.

A group round here bought a new MS 880 from a dealer. The owner of the shop/dealer reckons he's been out to the factory and got all the gumph... and gumph it is. He told the bloke with the cheque book, that he reckoned the saw on Super would need something like 40:1 maybe even 33:1 for the first few tanks. This info he gleaned from info given at the factory. I tried telling the said bloke, (gleaned from Arbtalk info) that it was the oil that dictates the mix ratio. But he wouldn't have it. So the first 10Ltrs. of premix went into the can at 33:1 and the result: •It's a pig to start •It's a pig to run •Oils up and floods before it can be started •During the first day's outing, every time an attempt was made to start it, it was a pig, flooded and plug had to be withdrawn & cleaned. •I had my combi filled with Aspen and offered some. But the reply was on the lines of, "The dealer said... And he knows best." A clear case of, "You can lead a horse to water. But you can't make it drink it."

Thanks for the replies and also the link. Makes for interesting reading; now I just have to convince the guy.

If you paid with a credit card, I'd get on to them cancel the transaction and to retrieve your/their money.

Not sure that this is the right place but here goes. Are winch cables subject to LOLER regs? I'm wondering, as a guy I sometimes help out, has two cables he uses for varied tasks. I've seen them used for hauling timber upper steep gradients with a tractor, winching trees over and dragging various things. I have no idea how old they are and he can't remember. Both the cables have both ends crimped in eyes. One of the cables, has a number of bad kinks and is fraying at one end. I have serious doubts about this particular cable, since I'm often the one on the winch. He's one of these people, who professes to have done it all. I asked him if his cables needed to go through LOLER. "Never heard the word. What is it?" I gave him the broad strokes. "I expect not... must be something new."

That link is broken.

Nothing in the passenger seat and no loaded roof bars. You're just not trying.

Back to normal... raining.

Got Meindl Woodwalker/Waldorfer, (so suede is on the inside). But care for either, (suede in or out) is broadly similar. Suede Outer Remove laces and allow to dry away from direct heat sources. Then remove dirt with a stiff non-wire brush. If there's areas of heavy soiling, then wet the area and brush off. Finally, waterproof with spray. Suede Outer Quick Method Ignore the suede and resign yourself to the fact your boots won't look that good again. But will still wear just as well... and be cheaper to proof. Remove laces, then remove dirt with a stiff non-wire brush and warm water or cold if you can't be bothered. Allow to dry away from direct heat sources. *Shed a tear for the iminent demise of that soft brushed look. Then waterproof with a good wax and allow to dry away from direct heat sources. *Alternate finish - stick with spray proofing instead of wax. More expensive but you get to keep soft brushed look for a while longer. Suede Outer Very Quick Method Utilise puddles and shallow streams wherever possible. (This method tends to prematurely wear the sole.) Occasionally remove laces, brush over and proof with whatever your have leftover. Leather Outer Remove laces, then remove soiling with warm/cold water and stiff non-wire brush. Depending in wax type or spray; either allow to dry and proof or proof while still damp, then allow to dry away from direct sources of heat. Leather Outer Quick Method Don't remove laces. Instead, loosen lacing and either shake boot upside down to remove most trapped chip/loose soiling, (to remove all trapped chip/loose soiling, vacuum them out). Remove soiling from rest of boots with non-wire brush and warm/cold water. Depending on wax, (spray if preferred) type, allow to dry or not before proofing the best you can between laces. Notes. Re-lacing boots before work is the way forward. Or up if that's your thing. If you're that worried about heavy soiling. What are doing in the forest/urban areas? If you've read thus far. Now is a good time to: •Forget boot care and go to the pub. •Forget boot care and get back to work. •Go clean those boots. •Utter the words, "Sheesh" and "I can't be doing with that lot." And either, go to the pub/get back to work/look for the nearest puddle, stream or lake/then clean your boots •Look down at your feet and wonder why you're reading this, when work footwear are normally ballet pumps.

Forecast for rain but at the mo', it's bright and sunny with wispy high cloud. Still chilly out there.

Well that'll save a bit of de-limbing.

If you're not tidy already, you'll soon learn to be so... or drown in untidiness. Lived for four years in a static with other people. I'm tidy, two of my colleagues at different times were messy. One kept his mess mainly to himself. The other was hell to live with; he just didn't care about anything. So be tidy. You'll have a finite space. If something can't perform more than one function, it doesn't get a home. Learn what works for you space wise and replace things in the same place every time. Good insulation is important but being able to air the place when the weather is fine is also good. If you seal yourself in too good, damp will soon be a problem. Again, learn what works for you. Get a good friend to accept mail for you and or get a PO Box setup. If you decide on a static, get somewhere away from places that collect water. I remember one autumn & winter, having to wear waders just to gain access and the continued flood waters sloshing against the underside of the floor for weeks at a time. Try to keep away from wind swept areas. It's great for drying clothes but an epic in very high winds. I can also remember a storm, that prompted us to lash the whole thing to the ground with anchored cables. Didn't get any sleep during the next storm. But at least we weren't in fear for our lives. Generating elec. will be problematic but there ways to this end. Not available at the time but maybe a small portable wind turbine would be the thing. Getting enough water when it's hot and keeping out the water when it's inclement, can be a problem. Though the latter is more easily solved. If something seem a little faulty, do something about it, as soon an funds are available and the weather is good. Little faults can quickly become big & expensive faults if left. Don't paint over the cracks. Fix the underlying cause, then fix the cracks, then paint over them. Where bare wood is visible and if you have the choice. Go for an oil finish. Varnish may have a lovely shine but oil is cheaper overall and doesn't take so long to dry or prep. It might be, that come the time for re-coats, you might not get enough consecutive fine days to finish a full re-varnish. Oil is easier to prep. for & and quicker to apply.

Yesterday it hailed and yet it was sunny with very little wind. But it was quite chilly as might be expected. Today is bright a dry, maybe that will change. I wouldn't be that surprised.

I was counting 'The Crown' as monarchy and post was meant in jest. No need to get heated. But if I have offended thee, I hereby apologise.

it's either one or the other.

From everywhere I've read, Oregon don't make a chain marked '23'. So it's either a Husky H23 made by Oregon. Or it's Stihl 23.

Husqvarna chains are made by Oregon and there is a Husqvarna 23. H23 is .325", .050" 1.3mm full chisel. H25AP is .325" .058" 1.5mm and quoted as a 'Micro Chisel'. Have a gander through here: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/husqvarna-branded-chain-id.233101/ I think you may well find your answer in there.

As I said... the first of many I'm sure. Congratulations on the first, on to the next.

They had a successful revolution and booted out the monarchy for good. We didn't. The corgis have to eat something. And the contents of your wallet will do nicely.

Started better than forecast but came on to rain mid afternoon. Then poured down on way back; m'way was one mass of spray, so got off and the country lanes were much better. On the plus/minus side, I'd spent the day indoors, pumping dolly on a 1st Aid course.