TGB

Are those wheelie bins tuther side of wall? They haven't been spraying something noxious nearby by any chance.

I know it's slightly off topic. But does the 545 have the same problem? As I understand it, there's a few things different but basically 545 is a detuned 550.

I reckon it's both - government control and an attempt at self-regulation. With the HSE funds being continually cut from the top, the HSE are having to re-coupe revenue from wherever they can. Who's to say they won't be dictating fees and taking their cut or % thereof every five years. As to the last quoted sentence; I would agree. But this won't be the case in the future. Have a gander through this article, http://www.hazards.org/votetodie/ishsefinished.htm#top . The UK is sliding down a steep H+S slope. And big business in league with government, are pushing worker-health ever nearer to the edge of an abyss.

I'm not asking anyone to throw dirt on either dealer. Just give opinion/s on experience with either or both. Looking round for new saw, (I've a very, (very) short list) and was wondering if people had experience with these outlets.

Not sure but it's definitely not Laburnum.Flowers are yellow and fruits are trails of small flat pods.

Both PFS Brecon and Blackwood Chainsaws in S.Wales are equal distance and both have been informative and helpful. They also have roughly the same prices. Have people dealt with both and have favourite. Or could I have your opinions on either dealer - in respect of: After sales service Quality of repair work Promptness of repair work

Could the NPL http://www.npl.co.uk/ be of any help/cheaper? Generally speaking, they go out to where the equipment is within the UK. They used to be a government body but for many years now, have been a private company.

You sure it's not a Swaledale cross.

Sewn Dyneema slings

Ah. So you too have travelled through the Lakes or N.Wales on a sunny day. What bugs me, is for every one towing driver, who can reverse properly and tow without being in the middle if the road. There's thirty who can't reverse without jack-knifing. Or won't even try to get out of the way. Afraid of a static stone wall but more than willing to drive straight at another moving vehicle. And why do so many caravan owners tow without mirror extensions? Perhaps it's in the certain knowledge, that they don't know how wide their load is, can't reverse without jack-knifing, have no intention of ever reversing, will happily pull out without observation into the path of oncoming/over-taking traffic and thus have no need for mirrors! Rant over.

Safety note with Danish oil. Between coats of Danish, do not expose used application clothes, brushes or tins to direct sunlight. Nor allow them to sit next to or on a heat source. Danish oil can spontaneously combust! I've seen it happen twice. Once on a newly coated window frame. And once on clothes near the bottom of stairs being treated.

If you want it knock resistant, use varnish. Though even a clear varnish will have a slight yellow tint. If you want to waterproof it and don't mind a slight tint, go for linseed. Boiled or plain makes no difference. Some say the boiled is more pure but it's really the same stuff and same price. The boiled just goes on a little easier. If you want to waterproof it and don't want a colour change, go for Danish oil. Whether it's varnish, linseed or Danish oils, a min. of three coats. If you varnish, remember to thin the first coat with white spirit. But don't go mad, you don't want it to be going on like water. If you use Danish oil, the first and second coat will result in a matt finish. The third will result in a very slight lustre. The more coats of Danish applied after a third coat, the deeped the lustre.

Also worth bearing in mind, is the effect that abrasion has on a sling. Don't know about now but they used to - on mountain rescue courses and high platform rescue courses for fire brigades. They'd show the group two brand new slings. Put the first in a testing rig and pull it to failure. It would go to more than the stated max. loading before failure. The second they would first abraise by very lightly pulling a nail board, (the thing used to smooth finger nails) over ten times. Then it was placed in the rig and tested to failure. The abraised slings would fail at only 40% of their stated max. loading.

In my experience with rock climbing, I've always tried to avoid tying knots in a sling, as I understood this could weaken said sling. What I was not aware of, was by how much this could be. In preference, if needed, I have halved a sling's length by simply making a double loop. But I have on occasion tied a knot. Though thankfully in such an instance, I've also had a backup anchor. But after viewing this, I doubt I'll be tying another knot in a sewn sling. Thanks for posting the link - a thought provoking video for sure.

So if I get a good one, all is hunky-dory. But if it goes honey- shaped, I could wind up with major headache. Is it worth the worry of, "What if and when might it happen?" Considering answers thus far, I may just swallow the extra cost; and not have the extra worry.

Hadn't factored in courier on this side of the pond. But still, adding 3%, then 20% on that and the courier, still comes in at nearly £80 cheaper than best discounted price in UK. One to ponder me thinks. Maybe I could haggle a bit off the UK price. Or is that like trying to tie ones shoe laces, while wearing polar mittens?

This might be a dumb question... but would a Husky saw, imported from a US supplier direct to the customer, be any different from that imported by Husky to a UK dealer? And what % duty would be payable? Found a supplier of a new saws; even including shipping, it's just under half the UK rrp.

Stove may be producing enough heat in firebox and flue pipe. But then exhausts into a larger, (chimney) colder environment before exiting building. If the stove were fitted with a double walled metal flue liner, the heated gases moving through the chimney, would just be heating that 4" or 5" or 6" dia. liner. As is, it's presently losing heat to quadruple the surface area and volume of air. Not directly connected I know. Think of a bicycle's hand pump. As one pumps, the union of the pump against the flexible connector / pump against the valve gets warm; may even get too hot for comfort. This is due to increased friction, as the air is compressed through a construction. Now imagine the process in reverse. Compressed air, (the heated gases from the firebox) being allowed into a larger space. The gases rapidly cool and can now no longer prevent deposits forming on the inner surfaces of the chimney. By fitting a liner, you help the escaping gases to remain slight compressed. And provide a reduced surface area in which to lose heat. This continued restriction and partial compression, also allows the stove to work more efficiently. As the hot gases remain in the stove for a little longer, leading to a greater combustion of fuel. (If one opens a saw's muffler, by reducing the number of exhaust baffles and or drilling a bigger hole for the escaping gases. Those gases not only clear the space more quickly but help cool the exhaust port/s. But make the exhaust too large and back-pressure is lost. Resulting in an inconsistent combustion of fuel and loss of heat in an uncontrolled manner.) In an engine, the combusted fuel produces movement via expanding gases and heat. Apart from keeping the cylinder & pot hot, so less useful energy is lost to absorption of heat from the exploding fuel. The excess heat lost in the exhaust gases, are just wasted energy. •The function of an engine, is to produce/transfer movement, with as little lost energy as is possible. Any by product of heat is waste. •The function of a stove, is to produce as much heat as possible, without explosive movement. How the heat is transferred, via the passage of heated gases - heated air - controlled loss of heat from a solid surface, is just as important, as the manner in which the heat was produced.

Call me hard hearted but to my way of thinking, they should jail the idiot and take away his licence... for life.

From what I've been reading here and in similar threads, they are losing business. It does rather seem, that once they have that initial sale, they don't really care. Seems they're trading on their name but not backing it up with good, consistent, quality customer service. I was talking with a 550xp owner the other day. He's not had his 550 very long and it had a bad oiling problem. Dealer fixed it - turns out it had been shipped with an incorrect oil screw. Selling bad equipment with poor or non existent customer service. One wonders how long Husqvarna are going to stay in business in the UK. As to their lack lustre 550 & 560; reminds me of a Microsoft launch "Where are we with the new software and when will it be ready to launch?" "Well there's still twenty major and seventeen minor glitches to be sorted. Then there's ten months further testing to be done on the beta issue." "Great! So we're still on track for the big launch of the final product next week." Has Bill Gates bought Husqvarna and not told anyone?

I suppose also, are the logs on easy ground with plenty of space to mill & stack? Or are they in the midst of an isolated wood with poor access?

Seems the modern company make really do make a truck for whatever roll you have for it. (Apart from forwarder.) But they do make a cab with bucket-grab and a crewcab with flatbed.

How is the box section attached to the stick?

Well in the summer it's warmer, (might even be sunny) but you have the sap and more foliage. Whereas in the winter, there's less sap, maybe less foliage, (might even be sunny) but it's cold. And could be colder than that.

Strictly speaking, the closure spring in this usage, is not designed to be used in tension, (nor under compression). More it is deformed sideways as the gate opens. Then when the gate is released, the spring tries to reform its original shape, thus forcing the gate to move away from the deformed position and closing the gate.