Wouter

The batteries are indeed affected by cold circumstances, if you keep 'm in a cooling box in the car they work great, but when the temperatures drop below zero your actual working time will be a little less. Normal work it will last for about 45 minutes and an empty battery will charge in 20 minutes, so you never ever have to stop during a working day, as long as you have a plug in around to charge it. The batteries won't charge if they are beneath 0 degrees and that's together with the lack of warm exhaust fumes in cold weather the only issue I have found out untill now. But try to get a demo or a colleague with one to try and find out yourself. That's the best way to go for arborist ;-) Climb safe

This battery powered husqvarna will be much, way much better as any other battery powered saw on the market right now. And it is def a tool you will use every day up in the tree. The oil lests for about 2 battery charges, so no need to fill it up every time. If you look at the specs on this saw and compare it to others you will find out it has more to offer, look at chainspeed and accu capacity. But best way to try it and find out yourself, I can tell you all sorts of nice things about it but once you use it you are def going to be impressed and be as happy with it as I am :-)

Works great in the cold weather as well ;-)

Ha ha, had to read up some ... And nice to see you all found my vids from the T536 LiXP :-) Some comments are great, like the one about the energy saver button and his remark he would probably never use it. That was my opinion at first as well, but after some work with it I just found out I like to use the energy saver for almost everything... ! The battery will last for a long time and for pruning it is way more efficient compared to a fuel saw. For dismantling trees it's a little slow as some also commented on the last movie where I am dismantling an Oak with it. it can be done and this situation where I had two groundies warning me for cars and people under the tree the battery powered saw was quite nice. Could here everything and the communication was perfect. The tree would have been easier to dimantle with my old MS200T but then we wouldn't have a vid now, would we ;-) Nice to hear it's now also available in the UK ! Perfect, I think just like here in the Netherlands lots of people will be surprised by its performance and handling. It is the best monney can buy at the moment and it allready brought me some extra clients just cause they talked about it in the local pub :-) Husqvarna did a great job and produced the first battery powered saw that is ready for arborist and usable with enough force and chainspeed to be a worthy part of our toolbox, and I'm not the only enthousiast arborist in the netherlands ;-) Climb safe

Hitch climber is the pulley to go with ;-) Climb safe

That's the most interesting comment ever heard about a pulley saver. And if you look it the other way round your elbows just will have to endure more friction every time you climb up to overcome the extra friction created by the rings of the multisaver....so all together the total will be zero IMO. And the difference in friction is not that big, a pulley just works a little smoother but never ever noticed any difference in my elbows Climb safe

Pulleysaver will do the trick, just what a lot of arborist use these days.....

I have been using the Smart Rigging Winch for over two years now and all the issues mentioned in the first couple of posts never bothered me. If you set the device on a very small tree, the plates won't have enough contact and yes it can move a bit. But it never moves that much it will be a problem. You can pull it so tight on the tree the plates actually bend a little, so the force is great and in combination with the rubbers on ghe backplate it holds great on bigger wood and never moves any more once installed properly. Winching and rigging can be done on the winch bollard, but keep in mind the really heavy stuff is better to rig on the rigging drum ;-) pretensioning can be easy done wit a prussik knot and a peace of rope that you install on the winch and connect to the rigging system with a prussik ;-) thats how we did it anyway before we got al these fancy winch devices and only use pulleys to get some pretension on our rigging bollards. What I love about this device is that it doesn't need switching between winch and drum. It's durable and made very strong. Seems like some people have issues with it but I think they just didn't get enough info about it and how to use it proper. Some vids with the SRWinch ;-) [ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LevalTrzyhA]winch it - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XNieV0M1Aas]KWinvught - YouTube[/ame] [ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O9RNHLhd7UA]Oak zipline time lapse by Boom&Werk - YouTube[/ame] Climb safe

Cheers :-)

@ Ewan : Sorry broh but I just can not agree with you on that point ;-) If you can not get your ropes organised and safely set for every work situation you better get some steel chain for lanyard. And there should be a climbing rope involved as well that will act as a backup in the situation you describe. But let us just get back to topic and we all just go with the techniques and materials we like and each and every climber out there has some different setups and materials he prefers and I reckon that we have to respect that :-) Climb safe

Running lowering lines over your lanyard..... Shock, are you serious !!! That's the worst case scenario with every lanyard and I reckon it doens't really make a difference if it's dynamic or static in that case..... Climb safe

I have been using dynamic lanyard for quite some time now. The Beal Unicore is the best to get for using with a Cinch and giving you the comfort of a dynamic rope while doing removals etc. The beal is 10.5 mm and really strong. I have also been using it for the brigde in my TM for over a year now and still no signs of damage / wear. The best thing about a dynamic lanyard is your body won't get al the action trough. the dynamic lanyard just absorbs all the action and not your back ! This specialy for rigging down while standing on spurs in the lanyard, with pruning there's no difference except for the part where it is the only certified config to use dynamic rope with the cinch ;-) They should sell it at some mountaineering rock climbing companies in the UK i guess. Climb safe

Thanks ;-)

There are more ways to run through the canopy besides SRT..... So damn foolish to think only about SRT while most SRT climbers have a tendency to convert SRT while climbing back on a limbwalk into DDRT and think they discovered a whole new technique....... Just use both depending on the job you are confronted with and let it all be done with this eternal argue about whats the best method, lets argue about what's the most efficient and safe way to work the trees we have to take care of and respect each others climbing style. Only my 2 cents

Sorry I can only help you out with my vid from the M400. [ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zp0gE2iUzUw]Jo Beau M400 wouter - YouTube[/ame]

Thanks

If you look at the practicals just go for the transit, but if you got the 4x4 virus just like me you probably better go for the Landrover, or even better a landcruiser 100 ;-) I have driven some different cars for the company the last years, dodge ram van, landrover discover 2, nissan patrol, vw transporter syncro, landrover defender and finally the best ever a landcruiser 100. The best to carry all the equipment was the transporter van and the best looks was the defender, but for real 4x4 driving and hauling heavy loads the landcruiser is way better. A transit gets stuck everywhere the tarmac ends and a landrover breaks down everywhere....so think it over and decide for yourself, we probably all have different cars we favoure and drive and whatever suits you and your equipment best will be the number 1 choice. Ha ha....but remember you will have lots of more fun when you buy what you really want ! Drive safe and climb safe

a vid I made yesterday on a small oak. I stopped when the wood was the same size as the bar and finished it of with the 560 XP ;-) enjoy [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNXWCcaiVyo]Husqvarna T536 LiXp on a small oak.mp4 - YouTube[/ame]

VT with a hitchclimber and an eyesplice, on the D rings a dynamic lanyard (unicore) with a cinch and in the top I use a pulleysaver soft eye config. Works great for pruning jobs, some other setups I use involve the Unicender, rope wrench, lockjack and rig.... Try some out but remember to try it low and slow, kitchentable is the best height to try it out ;-) Good luck and climb safe

I use them both, smaller trees just get the 560. For the bigger ones I get the 365. It just all depends on the job you are taking care of. Love the 560 for use up in the tree sawing down parts my tophandle can't manage. If I was to choose between either one, I would def choose the 560 cause of its crazy power and rev boost :-)

I have the velcro for two years and don't look at them and never ever cleaned them, still works like brand new ..... ? So I really don't see what the problem is.

gecko's for sure with the velcro ! best spurs ever. and for lanyard / flipline....I use a dynamic Beal Unicore that is way better for your back when rigging down heavy wood ;-) the static ones tend to pass all the action right into your backbone and with the dynamic cords that's way, way, way better ! Use it for pruning and rigging jobs and when it's all covered in rasin and dirt I just cut of a new one. -climb safe-

I got my landcruiser and lots of forest in my neighbourhood, so I will be allright ;-) I think the US is the part where most people prep for this kind of doomsday thinking..... here I don't know a soul that is busy with it or will even think about doing such a prep thing. Ha ha ha guess we just live life and we'll just see what happens when the SHTF climb safe and prep for your every days job ;-)

Petzl meteor for every days pruning jobs and the perzl vertex vent for the bigger jobs.

Ok, fair enough. Tot ziens ;-)