woodyguy
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Everything posted by woodyguy
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As I understand it you would have to remove it. Whether you are responsible for damages depends on whether the falling was predictable or not. So if it was heavily rotted and you'd ignored a request from your neighbour to fell it, then you'd be liable. If it was a healthy tree blown over by freak weather, then it isn't your responsibility. He might well wish to claim on his insurance, so your insurers might discuss it with his. Hope this helps.
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its about apportioning the expenses incurred running the workshop according to what percentage is garage vs workshop. So if it is heated and 50% floor area is workshop then you could allow 50% of the heating bill. Similarly for repair or decoration to the garage. Is this what you were thinking of?
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Just had a delivery from them. Very helpful and ridiculously quick. good plants too.
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Alec, the standard small wood policy covers you for damage to neighbours property or people. Take your point though that if you are running it as a business site, then that would probably be outside the remit. Also wouldn't cover anybody on site who was working for you. A good reason to speak to the company as it clearly isn't the intended cover for the policy most small wood owners use.
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Cheviot sells them for about 30p per tree for 100
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Muttley, not sure what insurance you refer to. If you own a wood then you'll need to have public liability insurance as anybody entering your wood who gets injured can potentially sue you for not felling that diseased tree etc. This is only £120 for a small wood like you suggest. Other than that not sure what you are looking to insure?
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I would agree that for personal usage 2 cubic metres per quarter is a good amount. Whether it is enough for your to make a business of it I wouldn't be able to comment on. Would certainly agree that if your wood was overgrown and you could get a management plan with the FC in place, then you could be onto a great thing. Tax breaks are for people buying 10000 acres of scottish coniferous plantation but I believe that profit you make from your 10 acre would should be tax free (but then you wouldn't be able to count equipment costs against tax as self employed people can). Lots to think about....
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Sorry I was wrong about halved. It is worse. You can only sell 2 cubic metres of timber per calendar quarter. As to whether they would give or refuse a felling license, I've no idea, but personally I would be very wary of risking my living or the whole reason for spending £90k + on getting that permission.
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Muttley, I hope that you are aware of the regulations about need for felling license before you can fell in your own wood. You have exemptions to fell 5 cubic metres per calendar quarter but this is halved if you are selling the timber. There is a real limit to how much you can fell and use commercially. Most small woods have restrictive covenants on them as well which may stop you. Don't let me put a damper on you as your dream sounds brilliant. Just check the regs and go into it with your eyes open! Check the regs on FC website as I haven't got them in front of me.
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Woodlands.co.uk and other sites are good. There only used to be one but if you type in woodland for sale and your county you will find several. I bought one recently. The descriptions are often rubbish but obviously size and position can be checked online. You seem to pay more in certain areas. Access is important. Woods as part of larger woods are more expensive as they have better wildlife potential. Many are conifer plantations that are less expensive but probably less interesting. Many tell you that you can't negotiate on price which is rubbish so ignore it. Find out about restrictive covenants before you get too involved as they may put you off. Good luck and let us know how you get on
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In England it's fine to cut hawthorn you just don't bring it into the house or someone will die. The blossom does stink inside but seems a bit strong.
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I would imagine that Holly superstitions are around its use as emergency winter fodder for animals until this century. In the triangle from Leeds, Manchester and Derby there is an area where much Holly is grown within woods for animal fodder. In Shropshire at the Stipperstones they have 400 year old hollies kept going for fodder. So cutting holly to feed your starving cow was good. Cutting the tree right down would be bad luck as next time there was a bad winter they'd have nothing to eat. Anybody know of any other non-occult reasons?
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Just ordered one from Rob and waiting for it to arrive, so really great to see your experience. Looks a beautiful bit of oak.
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permited development for forestry building
woodyguy replied to roglog's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
It's difficult when your reading of the regulations says that it is permitted development but they insist you need planning permission. I had this recently and got so fed up I just ignored them and went ahead. Calling their bluff isn't ideal but I've heard nothing so far. Worst they can do is order its removal, but not an action for everybody to try. -
With the same rope different prussik cords can give totally different results. I spliced 4 different ones recently. On the same rope, one locked up so much I couldn't move whilst others were ok. Finally found the best. Just experiment on this rope with different prussik cords. works for me but can't advise on what will work for you.
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permited development for forestry building
woodyguy replied to roglog's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
thankfully Part 7 of the planning act is remarkably clear and unambiguous. No mention of wine (or loaves and fishes)! -
permited development for forestry building
woodyguy replied to roglog's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
See attached guide which covers this. If you find the planning act on Google, then Part 7 is pretty clear about what is permitted development. Sadly many councils don't seem to have read part 7! forestry planning.pdf -
Dadio, watched your video with interest. I don't have anywhere near the experience of you or many posting on here, so much to learn. I suspect "your" cut is something that many of us would use at some point. Two things though. I would only ever use it with small diameter stuff that if I messed up might break my leg but wouldn't kill me. Secondly, what I find really irresponsible is that in your video and in subsequent postings you maintain that there is no or little risk. This is clearly a very risky cut used with any tree but particularly one of that size. Yes you got it down quickly but I certainly wouldn't be happy taking that risk. A pinched saw is a real posibility and would be quite hard to remedy. The fact that you have survived so far is partly skill but also a degree of good luck. I prefer to stay safe. So by all means post these videos but put a health warning on them to say that they are unsafe.
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Thanks for clarifying that. Interesting idea whether it is better to be able to evolve or lie low regrowing from your root system and getting top growth killed every 20 years, waiting for the vector to disappear. I suppose as there have been several out breaks of DED over the millennia and yet until recently Elms were a very prominent part of our landscape, not evolving is pretty successful. We are simply judging them at an historic low point of their life cycle. Certainly seeing the majestic Elms in Brighton is a fine sight and brings back to mind the huge East Anglian elm colonies. But when you see the efforts they have had to make to sustain them, you can understand why so many other local authorities abandoned the fight.
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The statement DED is quite different to most new pathogens, in that the elms that succumbed were clonal - one susceptible = all susceptible. confuses me. East Anglian elms indeed were clonal (and as their roots survive, still are). The large Wych Elm killed just outside my front door wasn't clonal and was seed raised. As pretty much all elms have been killed both clonal and seed raised, I'm not sure how that pathogen is different. In addition there have been many waves of DED infecting Britain since the first one recorded in the Bronze age (from pollen records).
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Probably too late for xmas but when Which last looked at coffee machines, the argos one did well, DeLonghi EC 250.B Espresso-Cappuccino did well and the sub £100 morphy richards. They were nearly as good as the £300 Gaggia ones but not as robustly made. Hope this helps.
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Difficult to see without any twigs to go on but as growing next to a stream is probably common alder
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The Oregon type c's are very comfortable but you get pretty hot and sweaty. Easy to climb in and fine on the ground in the winter. Need braces though or they fall down!
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How about 10cm diameter which is the size at which it counts towards your felling allowance according to the forestry commission for woodland owners.
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if your shoulder is much better, then taking an anti-inflammatory and slowly getting going with physio is fine. If it isn't better though then by xmas you've wasted several weeks and your GP has saved £26 from his budget for an ultrasound. That's the problem that many of these shoulders will go on for 18 months before they get better whatever you do. Some will never get better without surgery. It's not possible to tell without ultrasound, which category you are in. Too many people wait 6 months or so before finding out which camp they are in. So the moral is, demand an ultrasound early on, provided it isn't just a simple sprain. Then if it's normal and you have to live with a stiff arm and no climbing for 18months you'll know that's the best you can do. And if you need surgery, you'll have had it and be better inside 3 months. Just a thought.
