mrstumpy

I have had considerable success with other stumps in similar situations. A stumpy will tackle it but it depends on the diameter of the stump and the available access. You would preferably need all round access to cut from every side (or just two if it is small). very gently undercut and it will come out, and I mean gently!! Or as it seems to be taller you may be able to cut through the roots where access permits and winch it over! Or perhaps build a very stable platform (ie lots of pallets) and drive the stumpy to the top and cut the stump down to size. Or obtain a digger with a stump grinding head (or patch planer). What is the approximate diameter at ground level?

Sorry, you are absolutely correct

Osteopathy is the manipulation of the body by your own movement (eg streching, bending etc). IT focuses on the whole body (but mostly spinal) extra therapy includes SKIMMER (relaxes the muscles by using low electrical current). It is a treatment offering an instant fix. Chiropractic practitioners solely (typically) use their hands to manipulate the body (more commonly spinal). They offer dietary advice, home exercises and extra therapy includes acupuncture. It can be an instant fix or a long term fix. Physiotherapists offer exercises for you to perform yourself and treat by manipulation. They specialise in the entire body including the squidgy bits, ie. cardiac care, respiratory and muscles/joints. I hope this suitably confuses things Be careful with some complementary practitioners some, I know, have people they cannot help but keep taking the money. If it is not working for you try something else

Sorry Le sanglier, that was not clear. My rotator suffered some damage from one of the blades suffering a stress fracture. The rotator needs re-welding, not a problem but I would like to have it dynamically balanced after the repair. I am wondering if there is anyone relatively local to me who could offer the service.

I agree! Saturns products and service are good but the barrage of calls texts and emails are borderline harassment. I too am in the market for new premier chipper blades, Saturn/ Northern Arb supplies are a last resort for me. Now I'm off my soap box... Would anyone know where I may be able to get a chipper rebalanced? I'm mid Norfolk. Thanks

Yeah I know, I helped flatten the place... It's all full of mammals invertebrates and twitchers now... I hope you are well.

Hi David I have some seasoned and unseasoned (so unseasoned it is still standing) firewood off of a nature reserve nr Fakenham, you could call me if your are interested. 07761 347973 Regards

It depends on your budget. I have had a 250 Amp Clark Stick for 16 years which has been fine for most things, I would strongly recommend one with an internal cooling fan. IF you can afford it then I would go straight in with the mig, they are much more forgiving to use (provided the material you are welding is CLEAN). There are only two choices as far as I am concerned and they are Migatronic and Murex. I have had a Murex for years and it is fantastic. it welds the thin stuff (coke can) and I have regularly welded 1/2" plate with no probs . I rarely use the stick welder, and when I do, it is usually just to keep my hand in with it. The only major problem with the mig is the size and weight, they are not really greatly portable, the tiny mig welders should be left alone, they almost weld - on full power.

The 16 valve 3.0l isuzu had problems with cracking between the valves. It is easily identified by looking under the bonnet for a twin cam rather than single (the single cam 8 valve are good [i have one:001_smile:]). The L200 I rejected because I found it to be too small inside, too greater turning circle, too light on the rear end, cannot tow enough, under powered and too thirsty. They are really lovely to look at though and very light on the controls.

I'm still registered as a health care pro (radiography). I would wait for the radiologist report from the MRI they have the experience and have some knowledge of your medical history and build. Most interventional surgery has short term pain, key hole is generally a lot better. Perhaps, for now, relax and don't worry. There is a whole host of things which the internet says can go wrong (I mean with the rotator cuff as a whole) the advice you are seeking will be determined from the (very noisy) MRI scan.

I have about a couple of hundred tonnes of Alder, ash and silver birch in 4' lengths in Fakenham. PM me if you have any interest.

My only experience is the aftermath in A&E when I was working there! four guys one anchor point failure the others all cut through their rope, all over a period of time of course! Not pretty - not at all!!

Pm sent!

It's worth £200 - £275 on Ebay (depending which way the wind is blowing). You can't go wrong - if you have a use for it and it's not just sitting in the shed.

I can empathise your and with your problem, I have a similar machine, obviously you have checked the tensions in the springs on both sides of the feed rollers. Mine suffers from debris collecting under the feed roller arm (trapped between the arm and the chipper frame) so the rollers do not close together properly. In your instance perhaps it is worth having a look at the rubber stops (i.e. have they moved) or the ingress of some type of foreign material preventing adequate pressure between the feed rollers. Just a suggestion

I don't believe there is the single perfect machine for every instance of stump, which is why a SC252 is only part of my fleet of machines. I have run a SC252 for the past 13 years and accumulated over 2000 hours on it. Together we have removed stumps on 60deg slopes (yes, it is possible) wetland and every domestic circumstance from a couple of inch stumps to giant 16'. The standard design does eat belts and bearings but with a few simple mods it is a very cheap machine to run. The main attraction of a machine such as this is the lightweight and simple design, the fewer electrical circuits the better, a machine which is not running is not earning money! The auto sweep is fantastic for all of us who are, at some point, in a hurry to 'get the job done' without over stressing the machine. As operators, this the only electronic circuitry we require. Operators should be operating within their knowledge parameters, a full understanding of the machines capabilities/characteristics promotes safety. We know they can turn over, especially if the cutting wheel is elevated and cutting at its full height, or if the chip build-up under the machine is not sufficient to stop it careering off down someones' bowling green lawn when the cutting head is at surface level. I have not turned mine over yet (I probably will the next time I use it) but these machines are very well built, have excellent manoeuvrability and are easy to source parts and to work on. It is one of the more versatile machines which sets me above the competitors when (with steps/banks) the removal of particular stump is claimed not to be possible!

Hi I have had the same in the past. Try clearing your cookies and temp internet files. You must close your browser and hopefully it should be fine.

There are a multitude of different cable colours out there, not just our UK spec. In my experience the white has always been Earth (probably grey in your case). The easiest way to check, if you don't have a battery laying about is to remove the lens covers on the back and take note of the colours at the bulb connectors and note which colour is attached directly to the metal body of the light housing (Earth). The layout is generally as the diagram Al has provided. I hope it all goes well.

If you are anywhere near Norfolk I would be very happy to help you with a quantity of seasoned ash, birch and alder all in 4' lengths.

I spend a lot of time in boots. I have tried many on the market. I found the old (dark green) La Chameau were brilliant they lasted me 8 years!! They were relatively light to wear and fitted my feet well. I was so impressed my family (adults) ended up with some. They have (since about 2009) changed the rubber, the crack around the ankle or wherever your foot forces a kink in the rubber. My pair of the newer style lasted 3 months another 2 months and the last pair just one month. Muck boots (My current) I have found to be a little heavy but are robust and warm. I have had them for a year now and they are still like new. When I first tried them I noticed them pressing on my Achilles tendon but I don't notice it any more. They are a little noisy so are no so useful to those stalking people. I found Hunter to quickly tear at the flexing of the ankle. They were cold and soon leaked on the seam. Argles seem to have a good report from the people I know who have them. I have not tried these as yet. I hope this helps