se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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you'll want a record vice to do woodwork. i've a 52 1/2 (i think) which does the job. ones like this should suffice. Job Lot Of Record Vice No 52E 53E 52 1/2 | eBay
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supposed to be good for joinery purposes, not turning. the wood is very light and should be excellent for model makers interior doors or any use where hemlock or fir would be considered.
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an ebay chancer... wood | eBay you'd need a bloody big wheel barrow to get your moneys worth out of this one.
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at that diameter the base should be planked as it should yield some good quality timber.
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just because the tree was hollow does not mean it was dead or dying... that should not have any bearing on the final moisture content anyway. stack it and store it as others have said and leave for a year after that either bring it in the house or take it to a kiln to finish the job. walnut rots quite quickly and is a bugger for woodworm so protect it asap. as wisewood says, get your self a decent moisture meter to track it's progress. i would also cut a sample block, weigh it (write it on the block) and take it in the house and let it dry over the next few months. weigh it again when its dry and you will be able to work out how much it weighs per ft3, with this figure now known for this tree you can work out how heavy the boards stacked should weigh. this will let you know if they are anywhere near dry or not. are there any thick bits for bowl turning???
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in theory that's how it should be done. bodgers always used to split trees that were only 8-12" for use in the chair industry as that wood had superior strength. i would have thought the same would apply to handles.
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got one of these??? Makita 16-5/16" Circular Saw 15AMP 5402NA | eBay
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what you making???
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stuff chains. use a big drill, big chisel, big hammer and big muscles...
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all kd except for the legs that i got from woodworks. bought it all from timports.
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that's what i coated it with. two coats too, what went wrong??? i thought putting that on it would give john a lovely table for years to come but it's gone an odd colour. i think muttley's right john it will have to be sanded and refinished.
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it's worth as much as some one is willing to pay. as its still wet it will only be £15ft3 but if you had a whole tree of sawn boards then you could sell it for £45ft3. that would make a 12x12x3 blank £5 but as turners we have to worry about if that bit will split or not. £15 is a perfectly reasonable price for a dry blank that size whether it be spalted or just nicely figured as this bit is.
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what section of wood is needing to be curved here, 6"x2"??? is it a joist?
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i have to agree with you there jon, though technically it's called figured not flamed. flamed wood is when it's cut through a crotch so you get this pattern on a bit of veneer.
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i dream of being able to do one of them one day but i doubt it will be that big. looks to be 9' by my reckoning.
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helped cut up an ancient old bugger once and it was just as coloured, beautiful stuff you got there mate. a table will look good but what's happening to the rest of it?
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perhaps whittling is the wrong word in this instance. rather than use it for splitting logs by hammering it in the end i'll be using it to slice off chunks of timber that are in the way either for use on the lathe or flattening a surface so that rough bits can sit flatter on the ripsaw so they can be cut without rocking back and forth. what word can i use for that description?
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the extra decay resistance was what i was thinking too plus it will be a lovely golden yellow. i'm only going to use mine for whittling purposes so i think i'll use that.
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need to do this myself, if you start the process i'd like some pics to see how you do it. for mine i think i'm just going to copy the handle i have (it's falling off hence the replacement) but not sure what to use. anyone think robinia would do the job???
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there is a tiny bit on the end you can see but it is only on the end. it was slightly woolly as i wasn't too bothered as to how well i turned it but it's not soft at all. to fix the handle i drilled a 2" diameter hole 3" deep in to the head then 1" the rest of the way and all came out as hard curly shavings. if it fails again i'll just make a new one. i was merely trying to utilise a spare bit of wood i had kicking about and turn it in to something useful.
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doesn't matter the bit that broke is no longer there, the beech handle should not break...
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try one of these. .
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think stihlben had set up a huge forestor saw with rollers, it will munch through that i minutes... http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/milling-forum/69273-forestor-bandmill.html
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proper thunderbirds job, tat was a tank with a tipper on the back. looks like it belonged in a pod from T2... considering how much of the root plate is still in tact it looks like it would survive even with no attention. one near me blew over in 87 and looked the same and it's now a phoenix.
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finally got round to taking a pic of the fixed mallet, jut drilled the center out and turned a large handle for it. if i snap this one then i'm just too strong... .
