scottyd

090 s are awsome power heads( i had 3 wich where all stolen )

Poplar regrowth can be reasonably " rippy " side cut lightly , just bark , watch the old cut points but the regrowth is actually pretty strong . When assesing a tree to be climbed think of the last extreme wheather , that tree has undergone ( doesnt work so well with storm damage ) but eh .

I presume this is for wedge banging up a tree ... maybe a traditionl hammer just a bigger pall peen ( no sharp edges ) and drill a hole and starter cable loop ?

At what point is heat assement "the " issue ?

Does this not greatly increase the risk of spiking into opposing limbs feet etc. ?

Congratulations

Honey Brothers used to do the conrcete thing , and im glad u saw that spike ...

When climbing sappy trees or Seqoidendron giganteums i would use a cambium saver at top and carry a few over long prussick loops with 3 way twist lock binas each and try to keep rope off bark , and use an extra loop in my prussick when only on my camium saver ( due to so little friction ).But u can change that as friction builds up through running the rope . The same techinque can also be used in some nasty bits in all other works .

Jack Kenyon of Merristwood designed a simple thingy to do this . I dont know if it was ever commercially available though .

Confined?

Is it a bramley?

lol im actually impressed.....and for me ( the man who talks a good job is alot )

That is a good reductoin ,,,, i would be proud to say it was mine.

if ure use stuff proffesionaly ... just buy the best from a good suupplier ,,,, never scrimp ( i used to have two pairs of spikes ( i was useless with both )) but never scrimp on yer gear

Poplar is the most resilient timber when dried ( makes awsome lorry beds ) it also becomes alot stronger when dried ... b ut id be planking cedar thuja oak ash and cuppressus ( awsome for linen cupboards ) hey but what do i know