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Wood wasp

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Everything posted by Wood wasp

  1. Buy abroad if need be, viewing (though flights are cheap) plus haulage will kill most of the savings but you'll get a larger choice of machines. Osa 250 http://www.nettikone.com/en/fmg/12s/1581728
  2. It's a big one, but huge trees/massive toes/big pappy branches is very much a representation of an outsider when I was doing it. And I posted it because someone asked what spruce would take more than a fill to fell, pic is a pretty good example of just that. And to the OP's query I also advised that 15 years ago we were getting well over £100 a day.
  3. Not my picture but you should get the gist...
  4. It was 15 years ago I was cutting big outsiders etc and we were on well over £100, which is why I simply don't comprehend people doing it now for £100/120. As has been mentioned many times no wonder youngsters are doing other things. As for not understanding taking more than a fill to fell; you've maybe felled some big spruce, and not trying to be smart arse, but you obviously haven't felled a true forest giant.
  5. Remember you're talking about stuff the harvester can't do - Fell big hairy Sitka all day and you'll use 2 gallons a day plus, can easily be over a fill just getting them on the deck. We used to use the old huski Combi cans x 2 filled to brim for each man and then had another tub for oil as always ran out of oil before petrol. Must be nice clean timber you're doing to get 10/15 ton from only 4/6 fills.
  6. How can a cutter run vehicle, saws, fuel, spares, insurances, holidays, pension etc etc for £100 a day?
  7. Cutting solutions used to supply our Palax blades, good quality, service and price.
  8. I think you may struggle with the fransguard due to amount of cable the drums can hold combined with lever arrangement
  9. As above
  10. Height Good spar to give height and tower at tractor end. What winch are you thinking of using? Old Jones leaflet here courtesy of Forestry-Memories.org.uk http://www.forestry-memories.org.uk/pictures/document/1193.pdf
  11. Heavy gear oil or presuming seals are knackered might be best to just put liquid grease in
  12. Ok thanks again It's a 6" flue so perhaps that adaptor will work. We used allegedly one of Edinburgh's top stove installers, slick website, all the trade body logos etc so would hope to ok for advice on regs... Unfortunately I think he's just a cowboy but with a shiny van - he quoted a fortune so I told good lady to tell him to stick it. She wanted to use them though so that job "would be done right", unfortunately they left a mess on roof and needed chased up to tidy it so didn't block down pipes, left holes in kitchen wall, lights hanging down above cooker as they'd knocked hole there too. Then to cap it all when advised that we'd lit stove for first time and it was drawing way too hard we were told that was due to it being a windy night (it wasn't)! Now here we are 3 months later and he's suggesting a valve or choking the top of chimney, job has been anything but done right Edit: And I forgot the "made to measure" plate for blocking chimney which was one of reason he justified high quote, it was a bit of tin roughly cut to shape and then secured with big screws which stuck out at all angles. After my partner complained he's smeared silicon over them! Truly a bodge job and I wish I'd put my foot down at beginning and told him to sling his hook!
  13. Yes thanks Spaceman, I saw the pic and appreciate you putting link up. I was trying to see what they looked like fitted and where they go, our stove has adaptor at rear to allow pipe to go vertically up into old chimney block (pic attached), will this pipe need cut into (or raised) to allow valve to be fitted? Appreciate you taking an interest.
  14. So I'm back from travels and picking up on this again. Stove installer visited (though I wasn't at house) and said its most likely to do with length of chimney creating excessive draw so needs to fit a valve into flue, alternatively possibly try and reduce draw by shutting down top of chimney. The latter sounds a bodge job, is it even possible to do something like that? Any pressure valve should've been fitted in first place, does anyone have an image of one in place, are they fitted just above stove? Any advice to help me understand best solution would be appreciated as I'm not impressed by installer at all.
  15. Would be interesting to know if this is hype or if he has a point, probably somewhere in the middle.. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/10/07/eccentric-baronet-offers-1000-reward-to-kill-beavers-on-his-esta/
  16. I'm away for few days but once back will have a look at this in more detail, if it's still burning too hot I'll maybe get the guy who fitted it back to do it right, he charged girlfriend enough money for it.
  17. Draws air from the room but it's a fairly big kitchen with double doors to outside plus another door to outside utility room and hallway so there's plenty of drafts (draughts?) Spaceman - is flue outlet simply the top of the chimney? My concern is that it's just burning too hot as always drawing so I'll look at blocking rear hole. Thanks all for comments
  18. It's a Charnwood C six and yes, in a smokeless zone but chimney that high it's not really such an issue. I had another look and two pics attached. The cream one is hole to the rear and one with lever is hole underneath, I suspect that even if hole at rear was blocked there would still be more than enough air flow through bottom hole for stove to overdraw. Thanks for your comments, much appreciated
  19. It is a smokeless zone stove and there is a bracket thing with hole to rear with what looks like couple small screw holes either side.. But there's no plate. There's same size of hole directly underneath also. I'll go have another look to be sure
  20. So our new stove is fitted (not a lovenholme) but it seems hard to fully shut it down, it always seems to be drawing too hard. It is a 50ft flue so I'm not sure if that's the issue, but surely you should still be able to limit stove to how much air it can actually draw in irrespective of flue length?
  21. Mine on purpose built base unit.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forestry-timber-crane-Lokomo-forwarder-Kesla-stroke-processor-/182226112482?hash=item2a6d85cfe2:g:PKkAAOSwnQhXnf5K And another here, no crane but linkage one shouldn't be hard to find.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Patu-stroke-Processor-Forestry-Tree-Surgery-Logs-Harvester-/262566233843?hash=item3d222ac6f3:g:QhAAAOSwhOVXfree
  22. There's one on eBay and I've still got mine on purpose built base unit for sale also
  23. The £ weakening should make imports less attractive and increase demand for home grown timber
  24. Ok thanks
  25. Anyone rate these? Looking for one to do a 7m by 11m room though intention is to leave door open to let it heat as much of ground floor as possible.

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