Woodworks
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Everything posted by Woodworks
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Scrub that. Looking further down the tables in your link I think I get it now. The 400 grades may have lower working temperature but will suffer less due to expansion and shrinkage? Please keep it simple as this is way over my head
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I looked up boiler plate but it does look a tad on the thick side Alec I asked our stockholder about ferratic grades and they looked at me blankly and said never heard of it. Is there a trade name for this? All they have in stock is 304 and 316. This is for the liner and not under any load other than heat stress during the burn
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I am not very clever but used diamond stone on my workshop crosscut circular saw blade. Didn't make it cut like new but much better than leaving it be. The tricky bit is to have steady hand to keep the stone at the right angle. Be aware I have heard (second hand) of sharpening places being snotty when they have seen you have had a go yourself so up the price.
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Good man Alec Know the right phrase is the key with google. Was taking my life in my hands googling flange fittings From that search came across this http://www.fluesystems.com/shop/twin-wall-chimney-6-ceilingsupport.html#SID=616 which might be up to the job
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Cant weld yet! Was looking into learning but from what I have been told thinnish metal is not that easy without tig/mig gear and then your into gas bottles and expensive gear. The flu size is frankly a guess but I would have thought 150mm would do
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For my retorts flue I need some way to attach the flue pipe. Hope one of you guys might know where I could get something like this but in stainless.
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Doubt you will need to insulate in a smallish box as dehumidifiers create some heat. Cant remember the science but something to do with latent heat. Ours is noticeably warming a 3mx3m room
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Would have thought a box with a small dehumidifier would do the job nicely. Just adding heat evaporates the water but where does it end up? We use on in our utility room for drying cloths and the dog! works well.
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Thinking about it more the chainsaw blade works differently as you have a blade on the side of the cutter so a second bite at the cherry so to speak.
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Not doubting you but if this is the case why when cutting with a chainsaw is the top of the bar not binding all the time? Sorry TVI for derail just interested in this.
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Not quite with you Dave , under compression? I know you get less clearance when cutting wet as opposed to dry wood but always thought that was just because the fibres have more flex due to being wet.
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Re reading this it does sounds like there may be more to it than resin build up. You say there is friction on larger cuts. Either the blade is trying to cut curves probably due more ware on one side of the blade or the other. Alternatively could there be a miss alignment? The body of the blade should be clear of the wood as the teeth are wider than the saw body. If the carrier is not moving totally square to the blade it could be pushing into the side of the blade on deeper cuts. Just a thought.
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Petrol? In my workshop I use this http://uk.feldershop.com/en/Workshop/Cleaning-and-maintenance/FELDER-Resin-remover.html
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How much does the length and the diameter of the charge wood effect the conversion time? I have only used wood from the branch logger so up to 70mm but I am presuming larger wood is slower to release the gases?
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For those that want portable does this mean light enough to man handle onto trailer or does it mean drive to spot and be ready to go? What I am working on can be moved by two people but would need a lots of extra insulation and complexity to avoid overheating a trailer if it was mounted on one.
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Thing is if it stops the wind blowing through it so also stops the wind drying them between the rain. I now leave them fully exposed then when dry try to completely protect them either in barns or with old corrugated sheeting leaned up on the side of the prevailing winds
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Any idea one sheet price of it in 1mm Alec? I was thinking of a double skinned retort with the outer being steel and maybe a stainless liner with some insulation between the skins.
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Sounds more and more like I need to get my design up and working. It will work and will be productive the unknown is lifespan
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I watched the water going through it on ours. What happens is rain does gets caught on the face and slowly tracks to the back through the holes then when you get a gust of wind these droplets get thrown onto the wood.
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I tried it about 6-8" off the front and it was hopeless but it is hellish windy here at times
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Ah yes. Snag is I cant remember what I was told yesterday thats more than a year ago
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Hellish quick though. Sample of ash had gone from 212 g to 115 in 5mins before I tried to turn the ash into ash
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Just taken to bringing them in before sale. Last winter had trouble with horizontal rain driving deep into the crates. Had a much drier winter so not necessary for the logs this year but it's nice not having to mess around fetching crates and removing lids when the orders are flooding in. Only bring them in when the logs are properly seasoned though as they wont dry as well stacked up in a barn with less ventilation.
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Not tried any of the small ones but the one next to the Exeter boys was not large and suspect the charge chamber would be similar to regular barrel size. From my current retort which uses barrels I get around 14kg a burn per barrel. Say you manage to get £2 a kg thats 125 burns to cover a 3.5k retort! Just speculation though
