pleasant

This is the way in to eventually controlling the UK. Get voted in, first as mayors based only on your religion by voters who are a majority in the area of the same. Then stand as an MP and get voted in for the same reason, then those MP's who are of the same belief set up their own party based solely on religion, and then get enough votes to be a serious opposition, and then in due course become the government. It's been planned, ironically to use democracy against us.

Heavy for the cc's but the least vibrations of any saw from that era that I've ever used. The two opposing cylinders negate vibration.

No.

Yup...here's mine. 10 hours only

...bit too much Friday night sauce I think!

Because we have a tool to do the job. We don't just use it for that application,but if you have a blind bearing puller it makes sense to use it. Furthermore, as a business it's in our interest to do the job as quick as possible, so using a puller we don't have to wait for the alloy cover to heat up, nor wait for it to cool down. Additionally, heating up grease in the cover is not the best thing to do..for the grease or the mechanic breathing it, and the heat can also remove and/or blister the orange paint, making the machine cosmetically worse than when it came in.

Got a similar set to purposely remove the small drive gear support bearing in the removable lower cover of the Stihl long reach and kombi hedge cutters. Got fed up cracking the alloy cover trying to lever out what was left of the bearing, and having to replace the cover as well. The very smallest blind puller just fits and does a great job.

Put it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath with an overly strong water to solvent ratio and cook on a high heat for about half an hour (if it has a heating element) or use very hot near boiling water. Will come out a dark, uniform alumimium colour. (ps, I know this by mistake whilst finding out how it worked on a carb when it first arived, but genuinely it will give it a decent, near factory finish)

What was the machine? Not just the engine........we price up for a full service, a chassis service or an engine service, so the customer has a choice. Particularly where cylinder mowers are concerned for example, whereby the customer may just want the cylinder and bottom blade ground (which the average joe doesn't have the equipment or skills to do) but the engine may well be fine, so thats a chassis service only. If you're suggesting that cost you quoted was just to service the engine alone without touching the rest of the machine, and assuming it is an annual preventative maintenance service and not an engine with a load of pre existing issues, then that's steep. Aside from changing the service items, We drop the float bowls and drain any fuel, clean the float bowl out and blow through the jets, but unless there is already an issue with the carb, we wouldn't automatically remove it or fit a carb kit as that is pointless if it's running fine. New plug, engine oil and air filter. Plus fuel filter and oil filter (if fitted) are the service parts we would automatically fit. Governor/choke/throttle mechanisms and lubricated and adjusted as well, which a lot don't do. Then you have rope/recoil inspection and clean out etc etc. A lot more than an oil change and a wipe over with an oily rag. And a lot more than your garage does nowadays on modern cars, which are just plug and play, with maybe an oil and filter change thrown it, sure for maybe less money, but they proportionately are actually doing less for them money paid...ask them to do what we do on these small engine, but on your car and watch the size of the bill you get! Had a guy said same to me the other week....'my BMW service was only £10 less than what you've charge for my mower' I said, but what did they do as part of the service? He went and got his bill out the car....they charged him an hours labour of £95 PLUS VAT, plus £45 oil, and £25 for a filter....plus a printed off plug in health report...that was it, so it really irks me when people come out with that old chestnut. Our Labour would be to do that Honda engine service on its own would be around 1.5 hours @ £55 per hour. If it were a whole machine- not just the engine, then you would be looking at 2 to 2 1/2 hours, as that would also entail a safety check, blades sharpened and balanced, drive belts and/or chains checked, adjusted and lubricated, wheels tightened and wheel bearings greased. Rear roller bearings greased, clutch cable inspected, adjusted and lubricated, and controls checked and adjusted, gearbox operation and performance checked, then a deep clean of the chassis top and bottom, then anti corrosion spray applied....cleaning alone on even a basic mower that has grass build up can take longer than half an hour if done properly, then dried and polished down after. Get your garage to do all that on your car for what we would charge for a full service (£130 ish) then you would be looking at substantially more I guarantee

Yeah.....that's the trouble with that pixel chain Stubby.....you can't really make out what it is. 😁

...but rusted in front of your eyes as soon as they rolled out the factory. Unlike the Land Rover which used a considerable amount of aluminium in its construction, the Gypsy was all steel.....and thin, cheap steel as well.

I have used one of these in the past.....if I am replacing the old bearings with new. No need for heating/cooling, and the taper of the tool gentle eases the bearing from the crank. Just grease the side touching the crank weights to avoid any damage, but it really doesnt need it. https://www.redboxtools.com/product/draper-14159-fork-type-ball-joint-separator-19mm/ Oh...and dirko goes everywhere...particularly your fingers, which then get spread everywhere you touch on the engine and it's bastard stuff to remove from the bits you don't want it on. wd-40 is your friend when it comes to wiping it off.

There's a good, used crank currently on 'the bay' for £40. It's a decent seller...used them in the past. Item number 336306838952.

I would pay good money to watch it in action.

Manufactured november 2024, so if the serial number has been ground out, but the silver label on the chainbrake lever is still there it will state. 11.2024

Not sure if this is any help, but the 4510 only came with a choice of 16" (66 links) or 18" (72 links) bars from factory. Both using .325" x 0.50" chain. Efco (emak) part number for the 18" bar is 50230059R, and the 16" bar is 50062014R.

Mark. The part number i supplied earlier on for the op, for the non soft start flywheel is also the non mtronic one....but yes, they need to be careful if buying used parts

Yes....would need to change complete recoil assembly and flywheel as a matched set. That soft starter is shite anyway.

Yup....if we get a saw in with a 1/4" chain, we just replace and return the old one back to the customer with the saw if they want to have a go manually themselves. Like i posted earlier a pro grinding machine isnt suited great for sharpening 1/4" chain, and for us to manually sharpen one whilst the saw is in for a service isnt cost effective. I am referring to domestic users here...if it were a pro user we would ask them if they want a new chain fitted first.

Dan. I agree, but the C-BE models were pretty rare. Let's be honest it's a pro saw. So none I know needs a 'comfort' model saw. Very popular option for the home owner weekend warrior type saws, but pretty rare option on a pro saw., and even rarer for a homeowner to buy a 261..there's a few, but few and far between.

The recommended file diameter for filing Oregon 1/4" chain IS 4.0mm (5/32") it's only Stihl that recommend 3.2mm for 1/4" chain.

Yup....unless you do it manually, don't bother trying with an approved grinder like we have in the workshop.....takes too much meat off in a pass, so at the end of it you may get one more sharpen out a chain thats needs its first sharpen after dulling off...plus the locking guide on the machine is quite proud, so you actually take a knick out of the guide with the wheel on its way down to meet the cutting tooth edge. For that reason we don't bother offering a sharpening service for 1/4" chain. Either sharpen it manually yourself or replace as and when with new..they're not dear

The flywheels are different between the standard recoil and the c-be 'soft starter' which like you say, should never be dropped started due to the twin recoil spring system. Probably no help , but the part number for the standard recoil starter flywheel is 1141 400 1200, and the complete standard recoil starter to fit it, is part number 1141 080 2104. Ironically you CAN buy the outer recoil housing without the guts of it, only for the standard recoil system, but NOT for the CB-E soft start (twin spring recoil) Part number for the soft starter flywheel is 1141 400 1202, and part number for the complete soft starter recoil assembly ready to bolt straight on is part number 1141 080 2103, with a rrp of of just the starter alone is (wait for it.....) £144.00 inc vat!!

The problem with battery stuff is theres little to no warning before it stops working. Its like a light bulb you can have it lit all day, then next it will fail....no warning. This is what i am finding with pro users who are starting to realise that is very much the case. At least with a petrol machine there is a degree of pre warning there is an issue before it finally packs up meaning the issue can potentially be addressed overnight before another 8 hours of work the next day.

Have you checked and set the valve clearances, and if so, did you do it on the correct stroke?