Dave177

Few things to look at thanks, will get onto it monday when Im back in the yard abd post up how I get on

The PTO on my case 995 has become stuck permanently on. The lever became really stiff to use for a while and now it wont move. I have checked for debris around the lever and linkage and it all seems fine, would the PTO clutch do this if it wears? Cheers

If you usually buy standing then take your usual standing price off the roadside price and thats what it costs to cut and extract. Although for 10 hectares of that size material surely it would be cheaper to get a low loader trailer for the tractor and run a harvester back and forth to the site every day?

Just PM'd you

Did you get this sorted? If not drop me a message, might be able to sort you out.

Just thinking about it now if it is just the bearings its a simple case of undoing the top bearing carrier, changing the bearings and repeating with the bottom. I would grab the rear bunk with the crane then you can use it to level up the bearing holes

As daunting as it seems its not too bad. Ill try and type a quick run through of how I did it. Mine will be done again soon as the shims I had machined dont get clamped tight enough so they will get welded in Drive over a big ish log so the cab is supported by this. Undo/cut off the bolts that hold the bunk to the frame, lift the bunk off with the crane. Its heavy and just doable. Stow the crane over the front onto the floor Take off the plate that goes over the rear diff/center pivot- its heavy. Undo the hydraulic line that goes to the rear diff, and drift round the big locking pin that holds the center joint. Take the prop off,I cant quite remember how this is done. Lay a sleeper on the ground/something smooth jack up the rear frame near the center and use a slow winch to pull the rear away from the center pivot. Take the steering rams out, mine had been welded before and was a nightmare to get apart. The center pivot then unbolts with 2 clamps on the chassis, 2 big bolts inside the the allen bolts top and bottom. Then you will need to chisel/beat the top/bottom caps off and your done. To aid us in the future we drilled and tapped 4 m10 holes in the edges of the top caps to wind volta in and extract in the future. After that its new bearings and reassemble. Hope it covers it, I would say its a 2 day job for 2 people

Looking good. I keep promising myself a decent petrol jetwas that can be fed from an ibc container and washing everything down between sites. It would make very good first impressions and a good idea from a biosecurity point of view. few shots of the forwarder from last week, made a bit of a mess of one of the rides despite waiting for as long as we could to extract

From memory you need to take off the metal bar that goes over the back of the winch. The clutch will then pull off and the drum will follow.

As Per title I have around 500T of chestnut that needs to be cut with a harvester , the site is 10mins from Battle, East Sussex. Pm or call me if you want more details.

Thanks, spoke to them yesterday and awaiting price and dates

They are very simple to work on, the only hard bit is getting the small bar at the front that pokes through the housing back in line as it is sprung and there is no room for your fingers. photos would be better but I will try and explain here: the trick I have found it to loop a thin piece of string/baler twine round this and pull it to the front of the housing until the block engages in the slot, you can then tighten a few of the housing bolts up and pull out the string.

Need to do a cert of competence using chipper, 2-4 guys over the next 2 weeks, have own chipper etc, based 10 mins from Gatwick airport, although happy to travel. Any suggestions would be great Thanks

is there a market for wholesale softwood logs in vented bags loaded onto flats? if so what sort of price are people paying per bag? thanks

Thanks for coming back to me, If anyone wants to give me a price to supply please PM me. Many Thanks

Thanks for that, same figure I arrived to last night, just really confused myself with the numbers. If you could PM me an idea of price it would be useful, although I imagine the haulage would be substantial down to me.

I need to source 100m2 of green oak flooring for a customer, 9" wide boards and 1.5" thick. length not specified but assume 3-4m Could anyone give me the best way of calculating the amount of Cu ft of wood that this will be? Thanks

Will be still keeping the case for smaller jobs and have the brunnett for the majority of forwarding work. It will be just if we have to run timber by road it will be used for forwarding. Ill have a look around for a t120 as well, other than the usual places any reccomended dealers?

Our current tractor is very rapidly getting worn out, its a 95hp case 995, great nimble tractor, really good in the woods however for road work it is just too old, slow and underpowered. Looking at a upgrading, it will be used to pull out 10t forwarding trailer, tow a plant trailer with timber or our 8t excavator on, a small amount of mowing and chip haulage. Any views on the above? I like the idea of a valtra as they are fairly easy to guard up, has a nice flat floor for the forwarding controls and there is the option of reverse drive. Anything else to look at or anything to watch for when buying? Budget is around £25-30k

Realistically any machines of that age are going to need some work, as long as you are handy with the spanners and dont need it working every day of the week they are great machines. In terms of finding the right machine just wait it out, keep and eye out in FJ etc, they do come up Phil cooper usually has some older machines around so he may be worth a call

Looks good, the internal hose routing is a nice feature What it the timber stacked into in the 4th picture?

You should be able to rebuild the rear diff. I would drain the oil/ sludge and replace with decent lsd oil and try again. How are you testing the diff? Iv run a number of that age rangers for years and never had any diff problems. Also with regard to the diff breathers, if you are going to be wading alot then you can take the cap off and fit a hose over the end into the engine bay so its is clear of the water

Aside from the usual wheel bearings (jack up each corner and check for play) Transfer boxes go with a rumble, if you jack the rear up you should be able to feel it through the rear prop. The uj's on the prop bind up, take it off the diff and see if it feels tight. They are your common things

I have about .5 HA of stumps to grind on a steep bank and thinking a grinder for the digger might be a good option. Has anyone used one of these on this size of machine? If so any recommendations?