Dave177
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Everything posted by Dave177
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I may be interested in the naarva, could you pm me with some more details. Thanks
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As above, operator required. See advert in employment section for further details
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We require a FMOC qualified forwarder operator. Initially on a sub contractor basis but could go full time depending on the candidate. Based near to Horley, Surrey but work all over the south east. Good rates of pay. Call David on 07896 036 437 for further details
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I need to book someone onto a CS30 and 31 training course with assesment, preferably before the 1st of September. We are based near Gatwick but happy to travel up to 1 1/2 hrs if needed. If anyone has any spaces on a course please let me know. Thanks David
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I seem to remember reading that in exceptional circumstances a healthy tree could survive up to 50% root loss. However this is maximum and in reality you wouldnt want to go anywhere near that. I would suggest if the design of the building can be changed or the footprint moved then do this. Otherwise, dig some trial plots to find where the tree is rooting and the you can decide on a way forward. You will be suprised at the lack of roots in some cases
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In response to your question Kevin, im not sure why it is more expensive, however to take a semi educated guess I would say that because it is non standard would be a big factor. Its very easy to dig a big square hole and fill it with concrete, much harder to plot and accurately dig 12 small holes in the correct locations. I would then suggest the added cost of the lintles, bracing etc is where the extra money goes. Although as I said this is purely conjecture as Im not a builder or architect
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Generally pilings are more expensive than traditional foundations, and cantelevered buildings are even more expensive. If it doesnt enter the RPA too much you could possibly look at a floating pad ontop of the soil? What percentage of the RPA will the building take up? Arboraeration | Tree Healthcare Experts
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We have excavated quite a few piling holes with airspade on similar projects. Generally we go to 1m by hand then it is augered from there. You have to have flexible architects on this because you cant tell where the gaps in the root system are going be before you start investigations, so you may end up with 2 piling holes 1.2m apart but a 3rd would have to be at 1.6m etc. The benefits of an airspade over hand digging are obviously minimal damage to the root system, and speed as it is usually quicker to excavate a piling hole like this with an airspade than carefully hand dig. See Arboraeration | Tree Healthcare Experts for further info
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Thanks, I assumed Phil would be the man for parts etc. It lools fairly tidy, but certainly has had some wood through it! Generally we are getting no more than 2 lengths of sawlog off the bottom of most of the stuff we cut, 40cm max usually. I do like timberjack, however just thought this was a compact neat machine!! Whats the deal with the suspension, is it just locked out at a selected height or does it "float" at a select height? Yes seen the logset, whole different class of machine though!
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Not really in the market for a harvester at the moment, however it never hurts to take a look. Seen one of these up on the net fairly local. Anyone used/worked on one? I know that the new ones are eco log, do spares cross over much? Im assuming the 4w set up is nice and compact in the woods and the suspension can make it pretty useable on steep ground? Or would something a bit more mainstream be a better bet? timberjack/jd?
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I was thinking about stabiliser being required but I think we will give it a go without them first. Loading with the forwarder shouldnt be a problem, its whoever ends up unloading by ramming a set of tines through the stack! Generally it will be mostly for clean forestry cord, we have a few small wildlife trust etc sites that have no real acces so it would be to move that rather than being for arb waste, however im sure it will be used for that too!
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Thanks for the replies, quite a variation in size of bolsters, it will be loaded by the forwarder and unloaded with a loader or digger the other end so I would rather err on the side of caution and go bigger so it can take the hits a bit more. What length are the sockets that your having made Bob? From memory the ones on artics are around 6"? I cant really go much wider on the trailer so think I will have to mount them on the inside of the chassis and cut the floor rather than welding sockets to the outside
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Looked at the exte ones but are a lot on money for something that will be used occasionally. Are the ones on yours welded straight into the box section of the chassis? and what size are the bolsters?
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Looking to get a set of bolsters made up to go on our tractor plant trailer to carry timber with. Anyone know someone that could do this around the surrey sussex area. Failing that anyone got some pictures of theres,especially the sockets that we could copy. I want them to be removable like you get on a flat lorry so we can still carry plant etc. I would guess that 3"x3"x5mm wall box section should be suitable? Thanks
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Looking for details of some agri contractors that would be interested in a few days of hauling wood chip approximately 7 miles from the site to our storage area, ideally two big tractors running large silage or grain trailers should keep up. the site is near to Caterham, Surrey and we would be doing the job late august or early September time. For any more details please call or pm me. Thanks David
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Cheers TCD, Have pm'd you. in my opinion for deep mud track would be better and for general grip the chains are the solution. Although on that site I don't think anything would easily work without something underneath, we had the 8t excavator in there last year and had to track it round on a thick brash road, and it was a lot dryer than this year -
Tell me about it, looking all over for some at the minute, seem to be rare a rocking horse poo, and cant really justify the £7k for a new set. So if anyone has a set of 600 tracks or chains kicking around unused I would be very interested
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few pictures from where we have been pulling out from this week, really wet as you can see, But its pretty much all out now Can anyone recommend a place to get new internals for the joysticks on the 678 as they are starting to become a but worn, we have cleaned and stripped them but I think a rebuild will be in order soon and I have a few weeks break for it coming up
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Looking for a freelance/ Part time climber, you must be technically competent to undertake all sizes and scales of job to a very high standard, usual tickets required as well as 1st Aid. Ideally you will be over 25 and be able to tow a chipper B+E however this could be worked around if not. Most importantly is your ability to complete tasks to a high standard as per the job specification and communicate politely with clients. For further details please call or email below [email protected] 07896 036 437
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Thanks, that seems to make sense to what I have seen and spoken to people about. Running 600's on ours and after some bandtracks if anyone has some for sale? Also have a set of tracks for a bruunett running 500's if any one is interested in them? Is yours fitted with a center brake that holds the transmission, located behind the cab? if so do you have any ideas if it a closed system or somehow linked with the transmission?
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Ho often do you change the oil in your bogies TCD? has a seal gone to let lots of nasty stuff in?
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Thanks for the advice so far, got it back to the yard, and gave it a good clean checked the rollers, nothing siezed or bad, cleaned out the levers, no problems there. They go straight into the travel block so no linkage to worry about. I swapped the hoses over on the bottom of the travel valve block and the same track is slow so it points to a worn motor in my opinion. I am waiting for someone from CAT to give me a call back with hyd pressure in the motor so hopefully I can take some readings this afternoon just to be sure. Seem logical to people on here?
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so if they are equal pressure it would be something like track rollers or links, unequal would be a hydraulic problem or knackered motors? Its coming back to the yard on Monday so will have a good clean and check over
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We have a lazy track on our 2008 CAT 8 tonner, It has been getting slowly worse over the last few months. I have tried changing the oil in the gear side to no real difference. Is there anything else to check before I take the motor off and get it rebuilt such as valves, etc etc. There are no hydro leaks from behind the motor and although dirty and smelly no swarf or bad things in the oil that was changed. If it is a rebuild any ideas of places to send it, I'm happy doing the gear side just not too comfortable with the hydraulic motor. Thanks
