GardenKit

Glad you enjoyed your visit to the West Country Paul, it is rather magical.

woops! must learn to read the post fully

You need to take tha carb apart, clean it an rebuild with new diaprsgms. Make sure you clean the internal gauze. While the carb is off replace the tank vent, dont mess about trying to clean it, just replace it. Also, check and adjust the valve clearnces whilst you are doing the service.

Fair enough Mike, and you may be right about the 950. I have no experience of this model. Nothing wrong with Iseki. I was really disputing your claim that JD copy others. Thats definitely not the case and JD sell many, many more mowers than Iseki and have a much larger range. The X 100 series discussed in the last few posts has undergone a few changes but is basically the same concept as it was 15 years ago. Many have tried to copy it but none have done it any better and certainly not to the same value for money.

As a matter of interest, what shape is the handle now? It appears to have been a considerable force on the handle that wrenched the bottom of the casing out.

I would have the lunch Paul, but you can keep all that mud:biggrin:

If your trailer has the wheels under the body, then you may find that, as the bed is quite high, the ramps will be a little steep. They probably will not be too steep to drive up but the deck will likely ground on the edge between the deck and ramps. If done at speed this could lift the rear wheels off the ramps leaving you stuck. To some extent this will also be influenced by the choice of mower, some lift higher than others.

I guess it may depend on the length of your ramps. If you buy ramps, then buy the curved ones, they take the sharp angle away where the ramp meets the trailer.

I guess it depends who has the best earth though. e.g if the guy holding the lead was barefoot (unlikely, I know) whilst the other had his doc martens??

Sorry Mike, but that is not the case. Compare the specs.

Good choice Andy. It will not let you down. I do try to steer folk to the X145 though. It has wider rear tyres, slightly more power, a full pressure lubrication engine with oil filter and a high back seat. All for less than £250 more. Otherwise its the same tractor.

To be honest, you are not going to get a new pro quality mower for £2000, but there again your current 1/2 acre is not a lot of grass and a domestic quality mower will be more than sufficient. Unless you intend to dramatically increase the amount of grass you cut, then forget zero turns, diesels, commercial mowers and wide decks, even secondhand. Any that fall within your budget will have been heavily used and will require money to be spent. You also have to consider how you transport it. Not many vans will take a 48" deck, and neither will a 4ft trailer. Decide first whether you need to mulch, eject or collect the grass. As said before, be VERY cautious of used machines, especially private sales. Mowers can look very pretty with a lick of paint and a spray of silicone, but the decks will almost certainly be rusting away from below. I see many customers who bring in the mower they have bought on Ebay and collected from 200 miles away, who bring it in for a quick check. Very seldom have they had the bargain they thought they had once I have told them what it will cost to put it in reasonable order. Deck replacements on most domestic ride ons will cost £600-£700. In my opinion the best value for money by far are John Deere mowers. You can get a 42" side discharge/mulch machine with a 10kw Briggs for around £2500 new. Their build quality surpasses any other mower of the same price.

Haha, I know how you know! Just worked out a useless fact. The clutch has a circumference of about 220mm which means that if it spins off at 14000 rpm it hits the ground traveling at around 200kph. No wonder they leave the workshop so quickly!

Think Paul is with Woodworks, Jon. A bit further west of here.

Crikey Paul, you are playing hell with my memories. I last visited that pub in 1980, 34yrs ago! (I recognise the building but not the name, maybe it has changed) That's even longer than "the grave" at 31yrs. By heck I must be older than I feel!

I have looked up the part numbers. The flange you require was 61033808930, which was superceded to 61033808931 and then to C535000160 They are around £10 plus vat, but it may be difficult to source. I doubt many dealers will carry stock. They do appear on the bay.

Thanks guys.

I have no predudice:thumbup1:

You will be very welcome Jon. It was good to meet you at last at Tuckers, especially as we have the area in common.

How far can you travel for £20? I am ony £20 away, at the other end of the country.

Only the 'wannabe's'

Thats what you get for sticking your tongue where you should not Bob

I know spud is normally right, but this time I have to argue:sneaky2: Do not try this at home kids, unless you have a paramedic to hand.

Pretty sure from memory that the flywheels changed at the same time as the coils. Will check in the morning.

I know everyone has their favourite remedies, some swear by cod liver oil, some by exercise. I have had tremendous, even miraculous, results from Glucosamine Sulphate with Chondroitin Sulphate tablets. I use Boots 3 a day, but take 2 in the morning and 1 at night.