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openspaceman

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Everything posted by openspaceman

  1. openspaceman
    Kilns can be more efficient than retorts as they need no support fuel. The reason ring kilns are so bad is that until right at the end of the burn the offgas cannot be flared. Then it tends to be carbon monoxide burning but earlier in the cycle CO2, Hydrogen, methane and a lot of other organic vapours are driven off. These latter and methane are bad for the atmosphere.
  2. openspaceman
    I didn't have TCT blades on my log saw but the practise is probably the same; when the sawblade is made the saw doctor "tensions" the steel near the teeth by stretching the steel slightly. This has the effect of stopping the steel plate from wobbling. Over time and use the effect wears out and you get the wobble you see. I would hand sharpen mine a few times and then send it back to be gulleted, tensioned and sharpened
  3. openspaceman
    It would be interesting to see and I don't know what those heat storage bricks are made of but generally when you crush something it takes up more space. A bit like chopping a log, the resulting pieces can never be fitted back together in the same space. Think about how the ballast in concrete is stones of various sizes and then sand to fill the gaps, the cement then fills the remaining gaps and displaces any air. I'd use the biggest sizes and fit them as accurately as possible then sand to make the thermal connection, then the bricks can be removed in the future.
  4. openspaceman
    Dunno but it looks like it uses propane as a support fuel
  5. openspaceman
    And fill any gaps with vermiculite beads . Vermiculite is an insulator but you want heat to pass into the bricks when the range is fired and then pass out again as it cools. So I would think cutting the bricks to fit well and getting dry sand into the gaps would be best.
  6. openspaceman
    Yup that's the type I would want to use. nice and dense and heavy
  7. openspaceman
    That reply hung fire for a long time Paul, do you still have a camaro engine sitting in the back of a landrover?
  8. openspaceman
    Think of all those glamping tepees you could sell
  9. openspaceman
    I was never against hunting with hounds and would not participate but yes the mess was enough to never want them on land in my occupation. Similarly I would never go to a driven shoot but happy to accept the odd brace, it has to be very occasional because of the lead risk . Mind unless I can mount and fire off my left shoulder my shooting days are over.
  10. openspaceman
    I'll go back to cooking some when I know the shoot uses steel shot
  11. openspaceman
    I was wrong about the poles on the rotor, it is one field coil but the iron is shaped to give 6 poles so the W terminal will see 3 cycles per revolution, . My guess is 3 if it senses ac with possibly just one diode. none of my working alternators have a w terminal.
  12. openspaceman
    Yes me too, not having played with AT carbed saws I didn't realise the implication as it was opposite to which an old fashioned carb would be.
  13. openspaceman
    I think you should edit that reply @spudulike
  14. openspaceman
    Yes but I thought it was named after the twist in the needles[1]. It grows straight in its home country [1]Just checked and that's what Mitchell said in Trees of Great Britain and Northern Europe
  15. openspaceman
    Which is exactly as I found lodgepole pines down here too.
  16. openspaceman
    I found much the same with scots and corsican thinnings, if not crosscut and split they go pulpy inside the bark, sitka bark splits and the wood seem to dry hard. Bigger scots have a resinous heartwood, so more heat, but I have never felled a big lodgepole.
  17. openspaceman
    Vic and Chris used to tie with birch withes not plastic baler twine.
  18. openspaceman
    I don't know about Stubby but I would always pick some up and eat them as I went by, they fill out nicely in a mast year. Someone told me they were poisonous but no ill effects with me and one of the chewing gum manufacturers had a beech nut flavour.
  19. openspaceman
    "As I understand it" because I am not qualified in domestic instalations
  20. openspaceman
    Definitive answer is in Appendix E of building regulations Part J which is available online. Smoke test with stove and flue exit sealed and flue pre-warmed AIUI.
  21. openspaceman
    Have you tried Lamberhurst engineering, they used to be dealers after Hyatt Adams packed up, mind I haven't bought any spares off of them for over 30 years.
  22. openspaceman
    You're a dab hand at this aren't you?
  23. openspaceman
    Not only brickies, research Ronan Point and missing bolts. I had much trouble with second fixings; vapour barriers and cold bridges on a couple of refurbs at work.
  24. openspaceman
    No not if the damper and air controls seal well. It's all a bit speculative with the details and description here, as mentioned you should have a CO monitor in the room in any case. Hold a burning taper near the stove when it is cold and see if a draught flickers it.
  25. openspaceman
    There doesn't need to be an extractor fan (good call though) if your house is warm enough to create a circulation from the room your stove is in and up stairs and out somewhere the hot air leaving has to be replaced and cold denser air pushing down your flue could do that.

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