Maxnaggle

Hi Mendiplogs, thanks mate

Alreet! I'm on the hunt for a makita 7900 after having used one and it being an animal.. The one I used was a dcs7900 I'm pretty sure, as it was fairly old. How ever, I've found this sweet deal: Lawson HIS: Makita EA7900P45E Petrol Chainsaw 45cm (18") 78.5cc (Replaces DCS7901) + FREE OIL But it looks like the model is slightly different (ea instead of dcs) and the specs show it to be down on the old model by .5 of a bhp... Information is fairly limited, so I was wondering if anyone on here may be able to shed some light? Thanks

Thanks guys! That should help me get the ball rolling

That's that settled then!

Heya all, hope everyone is well. I think it's time for me to get my b+e or what ever it's called, and was wondering if anyone could recommend an instructor near Exeter? Thanks!

Well Myne definitely pulls better at low rpm, meaning I'm driving a gear higher than usual - will report back at the end of the week to see how I get on with consumption. Has anyone had a Ford ranger/mazda b2500 re mapped? Just a thought,

I have also read in a few places that the engine is a non interference type (news to me) so that in the event of the cam belt snapping the valves don't get trashed.. Can anyone confirm this??

Heya all, just wondering if anyone has done this with their vehicle.. Apparently doing this can improve mpg, oil life span, turbo life span, power and stops the inlet getting sooted up with recycled exhaust gasses.. I blanked Myne off today and have noticed a definite improvement in bottom end grunt, will report back on the mpg figures at the end of the week... I understand that the idea of having an egr is to reduce the amount of nox (?) gasses being released.. But weighing that up against the above, seems like fair game to me? Thanks all

Easily the best utility 4x4 about I reckon!

Presuming that there have been no un foreseen circumstances and its purely a cock up on the quote, then the excess cost should be absorbed by the arb doing the job. The difference is you can only really guess if you are going to find metal in a tree, and its the potential customers tree, not yours... So why take the risk???

I don't think there's anything wrong with what the Op is suggesting, big trees are hard work before loosing a day + on the job.. Though I do think you would have to be tactful with wording, not just slap it on the end of the quote, but actually verbaly go through it with the customer, make sure they understand how much of a pita it is and then go from there to come up with some sort of hourly rate should the job go on due to metal/concrete in the tree.

I think if you're willing to take the time to sell your kit individually you'll make a bit more out of it

The link I posted earlier is a PDF format manual which actually has all of the info to do with the can belt change, and where to find the timing marks. There were also painted on marks, but I couldn't get them to line up with both pulleys (while the old belt was still on and I presume correctly timed). That was the only tricky bit. Euro car parts stock the tensioner and belt for £30 each or you can buy it as a kit for £70...?

Thanks for all the replies guys, had a go at it today, managed to get the belt and tensioner swapped out, though they were both in pretty good condition actually, with only a tiny bit of play in the tensioner. Still had no idea when they were last done, so out they came. I lined the pulleys up with the marks on the casing while the old belt was still on using a 17mm socket on the cam pulley, turning clock wise. (I was doing as instructed by the workshop manual, and noticed afterwards that the belts actually spin anti clock wise when the engine is running) Took old belt off, put new one on + tensioner, cranked the lot over by hand a couple of times to make sure the marks lined up okay. Took me about an hour and a bit, bare in mind I've never done timing related stuff before so was being extra careful with everything - so anyone could definitely do it themselves to save paying a mechanic. The only whoopsie was snapping one of the boys that holds the plastic housing on, luckily it's still proud of the engine case so will try and get it out tomorrow with the day light on my side. Thanks for the input

Just a thought, though I can't see it having an impact with the current level of flooding, but would having green areas planted up keep the moisture content down in the soil, so that when it is wetter the soil can hold more?

I think he's getting at the bigger dealers, like frjones etc, who can afford to sell equipment on not much of a mark up and make up for it through number of units sold.... (This is just me speculating) Having lived in Bristol, I found that it would have been cheaper to travel to London to pick up a saw from frjones, than to buy locally.

Though I've got to say, I'm interested as to what this old trick is?! Haha

Mine is the 2.5 mazda engine, I think the tdci engine is a completely different kettle of fish...

Haha Im all ears mate!

It's all come through, thanks for that. Muchly appreciated

Will do! Thanks Maud. I've found a sort-of workshop manual online, though it does say it's aimed at ford/Mazda techies so more assuming in skill than a Haynes manual Can be found here (you may have to scroll down slightly) Workshop Manual Mazda B Series (B2500) WL-T engine (English)

Nice one, thanks!

Oh, well I might be in for a surprise then. Does anyone know where I can find a workshop manual that isn't for the American models? Thanks for all the replies

Mick I think yours is the tdci engine - I've got the old 2.5 td that seems to have been used in the older rangers. I may well be wrong though

Great! I'll hunt for a manual I reckon