JAMIE1

The saws, 6 in total came from a repair shop that i get all my saws from, they were classed as uneconomical to repair. Mostly from what i understand were carb issues. I built one and got it to run right than cleaned all the carbs added new diaphrams and removed the tarnish from the gauze and got all the other carbs working.

Seals are ok, impulse is ok. Just bubbleing up from the manifold. Im using the center line on the manifold to line up with the center line of the cylinder. Bit the bullet and went and bought an new manifold and clamp this afternoon and all was good, held pressure and never dropped. Then got thinking. I tried all the old clamps i have on the new manifold and all sealed perfectly. Then tried the new clamp on the old manifolds and all leaked. So i assume all the manifolds are useless even though they are all as pliable and elastic as the new one.

Just in the middle of rebuilding a MS200t, got to pressure test stage and its leaking from under the inlet manifold where it fits around the cylinder, ive tried 5 different clamps and 4 different manifolds in various combinations to no avail. It either leaks at the front, at the back or both. Do the plastic clamps get past their best? as the ones im using are all used. Would it be wrong to smear some DIRKO inside the manifold and try and get a seal that way? Ive never really worked out why they use a push on clamp fitting and not the jubilee type clamp that all other stihl pro saws use.

Stick them on ebay as spares or repairs, list them individually. You will be amazed what people pay. Other than that send all the 64's to me and i will stash them in my workshop for a rainy day.

Built up the MS230, it must have been regarded as not economical to fix as the crank bearings were shot to bits. Put a new set on and its a nice running little saw. Next was one of the 250's, got to the pressure test stage and it would hardly hold any, crank seal on the flywheel side was ok but the one on the clutch side was leaking.

Dishwasher is in the garage, picked it up from the classifieds in the local paper, run it on a hose pipe from the outside tap and the waste goes into a soak away. We dont have a dishwasher in the house, my other half always remarks that the garage is better equipped than the house.

This is the sum of what ive picked up from a local service shop this morning, a 023 2x250 230 and a 210. All in bits, they say they are beyond repair. I shall be the judge of that. Main cases are in the dishwasher already.

Does the saw cut out once its got warm? if it does its more likely the ignition unit that neads to be replaced.

Fairly easy to do, link here to the parts diagrams for your saw http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/2062200/036-pl-pdf-july-12-2010-4-29-pm-526k?da=y remove the side cover, then remove the cir clip and washer holding the clutch drum in palce, slide the drum and bearing off. Next to remove the clutch REMEMBER ITS LEFT HAND THREADED. You will need to use a suitable stop through the spark plug hole to stop the crank rotating, you can get special tools but a piece of 3/8 rope works just aswell, by hand using the clutch turn the crank in a clockwise direction so thi piston is just before top dead centre and feed your piston stop or rope in through the spark plug hole. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANK A FULL REVOLUTION WHILE THERE IS ROPE IN THERE OR IT COULD FALL INTO A PORT AND REALLY CAUSE A PROBLEM. With the crank locked up remove the clutch. There is next the worm gear and a couple of washers that slide off, the oil pump is held in place with two T27 bolts, undo these and the pump is loose, feed the oil to bar pipe back through the hole and the pump will just lift off.

I have an 880 sat on the shelf waiting to be looked at, i got it posted to me using DHL at a cost of £11 thats with a 30 inch bar and chain. Problem with that one is that the fuel leaks into the cylinder when the saw is not being used then it wont start because its flooded. I suspect all it needs is a carb kit, im hoping so anyway.

The four bolts that hold the cylinder into the plastic housing are not the ones that hold the cylinder to the crank pan. There are four more shorter bolts that hold the cylinder to the crank pan, This setup makes it lots easier to get a good seal and test before you re-assemble it back in to the palstic housing. The Ms210 to 250 should have been built with this arrangement as it would have made life easier.