Jim372xp
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Everything posted by Jim372xp
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Never used a 9010 but I have a 7901 which I really do like, I would like to put a 28 or 30" bar on it, currently wearing the 24" bar which came off my 372xp, but how big could it really handle? Pic of mine today cutting up some Oak I took down recently.
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Cheers peatff never thought of that.
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Sorry just seen the other posts after I sent mine, cheers for the advice gent's.
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Shavey that sounds very unfortunate that you have to break a perfectly good saw for parts, I was thinking about my problem and thought of welding a piece of steel to the bumper spike and fitting it on the clutch cover side and using the bar studs and nuts to keep it in place like whats on my mates husky 281 set up.
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I found this enoyning little problem today on my 520.Problem is I don't know what to do now, I took the bumper spike off so its not stopping me using the saw but it's repairing it to put the spike back on that concerns me, do you think it's possible to tig weld it in situ without stripping saw down or would welding it in situ put to much heat into the crank case and damage gaskets and seals etc , your thoughts gentleman please :confused1:
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I have an ex forestry commission berlingo in their colour green, been ultra reliable for the 6yrs I've had it. I had to put a recon axel on it last year as I overloaded it with wood a broke the torsion bar , the only criticism is the mk1 with the DW8b engine is bit flat and could do with a turbo, pro's very good on fuel:thumbup:.
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:lol::lol:
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Sweet!
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I see your 3120 on the bay Stubby, I also noticed there is another one on there at the top of the page and if you look closely they have put the chain on backwards in the picture, some people
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:thumbup1:Lovely piece of work there Will, you are very talented.
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I would give Alain from Declicmotorculture.com in France a email about Meteor parts, he was very helpful when I recently purchased a Meteor cylinder and piston kit and a crankshaft for my Husky 372xp , I paid by paypal and received it within a week. There are others as Spud said but I can't recommend them more highly by the service i received.
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Here are some Westcountry saying A pig in a poke = An item like a car / automobile that is unreliable, You have bought a right pig in a poke. And does not refer to have sex with a fat ugly girl / women Flat as a witches tit = Refers to something that has an engine with no power like some chainsaws Lemon = A lemon or something that is not very good. Buck = A male deer / rabbit and greeting to man / your mate, Alright buck!. Maid = Woman or girl. Knuckle dragger = Someone who is a bit thick or reference to a farmer or someone who lives in the countryside / or Dartmoor like me What be bout / or about = What are doing today. Hope ive enlighten you to some of the Westcountry lingo
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Stubby I've just watched the Predator in action, I see what you mean, that's proper redneck engineering.
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That is Insane, Mental Australian Engineering hat's off to them for there ingenuity:lol:.
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Cheers Ray
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Cheers peatff very handy. wisecobandit I was thinking the same thing, the saws a 2002 mod not worth much and with a mate who is as tight as a drum I think that will be fine for his requirements
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So you don't want to know what a pig in a poke is then:lol::lol:
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Caterpillar steel toe and normal going out boots. The last pair of steel toes I bought cost me £58 Inc vat and delivery.
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Looking for a tank handle for my mates Sthil MS260. Are cheaper am ones any good or is it better to buy an Oem sthil one. I know there is going to be a price difference and my mate being a bit of a tight arse won't want to pay to much. Your thoughts please
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Just putting the feelers out for a mate, he's after 35/40 Ton of good quality hardwood to run through a processor to fulfil log orders. Price and delivery to the Plymouth area would be helpful. You can pm me and I can pass your details to my friend if you can help.
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I have a pair of the old type Sthil chainsaw boots the brown one's with the backward facing tractor type tread,trouble is the sole on one boot is coming off and they are to good to throw away. Anyone recommend something to sticking the sole back on I have JBWeld or is there something a bit better for the job.
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:lol:Sound like your havin some fun and games with these saws Moorhead. Who's your dealer that you use.
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There is a saw mill at Rattery and i also known two people that could help you move it both in and around the Ivybridge area, both know each other and do work for one and another. As regards to milling I don't know if they have a mobile mill or not. Pm me and I'll give you the numbers.
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I trained at a MF dealers and worked on many 300 series tractors. I agree if the tractor is split check the clutch, flywheel, spigot and release bearings for wear. On the 12/12 shuttle model there is a cam plate which is operated by the forward / reverse lever, on the cam plate there is a roll pin that can sometimes break if this breaks you obviously loose your ability to move forward and backwards. I went on a MF training course at Stoneleigh for the 300 series and still have the work books for the model, so if you need a particular bit I'll look out the book and I could scan it off for you. Bearing in mind its been 20yrs since doing the course and have not worked on one for 15yrs so I'm a bit rusty
