Bob_z_l

Cut old sleepers with a chainsaw to make a garden retaining wall. Blunts chains faster than anything else I've cut. Ended up using a 9" grinder and metal cutting disc. I imagine it'd be just as hard n your band saw. I'd be very interested in your experience and results.

You've done a M-tronic "reset" on it? My 261C did similar. New solenoid did the trick.

i've milled some and the boards were ok. Very light in colour and took oil or stain easy. I've also gut it and dried for firewood and it does ok. Not brilliant but not too bad to mix in amongst other stuff. In the end it's how much time and space you have. The boards will take time to mill and dry. My preference I'd firewood it and save your chains for something nice.

Timber Market TIMBERMARKET.CO.UK

I have sold mainly through eBay as I don't do Facebook. Gumtree yes, not as successful but no "fees". Just about to try Timber Market as it's a UK thing and not USofA. There does seem t be a lot of "wanted" ads that I have product for. Hopes are high .

I saw that too. Road legal? Under 750kgs maybee's but is it?

It does look good. If he sells it it'll be worth a few squid.

Is he ignoring this thread now? I assumed eel be back to make comment

Wow! Nice result. Good luck.

The roll off is within the last 6-8 inches. As I progress further down the log it gets exaggerated and is nearly a foot. It doesn't' always happen and after all of your helpful comments I believe it is most probably me being over zealous with my wedges. I am sorry that some feel it isn't a big issue. I felt that if the board needs to be as perfect as it could be, so it would minimise the amount of planing and sanding to get the finished article. And Maximise the board length available. Cutting off the waste would mean a diminishing stack of boards....or wasting good board so I could maintain a standard length across the stack. If you get me? Can't abide waste, which is why I try and re-cycle these lumps to boards. I'll hopefully get the chance this weekend to have another go at big lump of Cedar sat on the drive. Thanks to all for your positive insight.

Cheers. No I haven't . I will give it a go. I also think @CDMRhas a good point. I might have been a bit over keen on wedges. They were big slabs and I didn't want the pinch marks from the back of the chain. I'll also try @Will C

Hi All, Recently I'm having a problem where towards the end of the board the cut starts to roll off. The further down the job i get the worse it gets as it's compounded by more roll. I can reset it with a new first cut/straight edge but I'd really like to know what I'm doing wrong. I'm trying to focus on keeping both rails flat. What am I missing? Thanks in advance.

That spalting is lovely. What did you finish the top with? Osmo?

I would be looking at second hand. Pretty sure something would turn up. Maybee's after wait.

My mate the upholsterer used to use Bambi "silent" Very quiet...made less noise than some kettles. Not sure if many made it across the channel though. They are 220/240V if that helps?

Hi Rob, I'm a fan of your system. It seems to work well and after doing a search of the site, finding a price, logging in and seeing it drop. It does give feeing of being rewarded/ appreciated. Cheers

Is this closer?? Sprocket wheel D=25/Z=12 FORESTRYWEBSHOP.COM

Sorry. Didn't get that. On the plus side...it does look like a part used across multiple platforms. Good luck with your search.

First google search comes up with this. Looks very similaar...Item 14. https://avs.parts/deere/sprocket/f046098/

I'll keep an eye out for your review. I though the hyper was going to be less teeth to sharpen? Or that is what I got from Sauls vid. Made me want to get a skip for my Chilaskan 👍

Cheers @Rough Hewn The "shock" was something I suspected which is why I mentioned it. As said, I think the failures are mainly due to me expecting/asking too much from the setup. It's a good setup but not bob-proof. Yes .404, that was one of my plans. Small hiccup was that I already had the 661 and lo-Pro bars. I will in due course upgrade the bar to fit the panthermill then I'll be unstoppable :-)

Cheers @Rough Hewn and @Rob D I have (now) 2 x 42" 3/8 lo-pro's They both have replacement nose sprockets. First one (I believe) because no grease at all and a couple of hundred metres of milling ant it just failed. I lost all chain tension and the sprocket had disappeared. The plates had splayed game over. Second nose sprocket on new bar went after several hard months of milling mainly Oak and Beech. Have 2 rim drives and 2 saws that they rotate between. I try to keep things clean with a regular blast off the air line. I have also , unfortunately , made contact on both bars with metal. Enough to snap one chain and remove teeth on the other. Deep inside the wood and , I believe, out of the range of my metal detector. The bars have lost a bit of paint, but there is no apparent wear barring a small nick where the chain broke. I have tried to re-dress this to stop any further problems. The .404 have is on a 46" sugi /881 and is not a ripper chain but so far 80m of Cedar, Larch and Oak. No problems. Please don't get me wrong....I don't have issue with the Lo-Pro but think compared to a regular 3/8 or .325 and definitely the .404 the Lo-Pro is quite a lot more delicate. I do realise this and so try and treat them accordingly. I don't rush them or push hard. But do love the narrow kerf and the act on larger pieces it can give me an extra board. The reason for the thread was that my grease gun made all the right sounds but wasn't applying any grease. Same in my mind as having a sump full of oil but a failed oil pump.....it was only going to end one way! Thanks as always for all your great advice. I will take it all on and recheck what I'm doing as it will inevitably be user error on my part. Cheers Bob

Thank you. A very kind offer. I have splashed out on one of the metal ones in the hope that £14 trumps £4.99 Thanks Bob

Thank You. I have a generic one from Tree and Grass This looks the business. Cheers