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This I would concur with if possible - whatever ends up happening with the original tree it would be prudent to plan for its succession and if there's space to plant something then with luck it may be possible to plan this on a long enough timeframe that the eventual impact is minimal. There is a much wider range of sizes and forms of walnut tree (and nut) than is generally recognised. If the site doesn't really allow for a large tree then there are much smaller varieties. This site has the best range of anyone I know of (over 100 ornamental and nut-bearing varieties, described in detail in the catalogue): Welcome at the website Nusery Smallekamp The trees are reasonably priced but shipping is expensive. As it happens I'm just about to place an order for a couple of trees and adding a third wouldn't affect it, so I'd be happy to add one if they decide to go that route, and ship it on in the UK. I'll be placing the order between Christmas and New Year. Alec Alec

You're not allowed to cease skittle production - you've got all that sycamore to get through! Alec

Would that by the Levada de Caldeirao Verde by any chance? We did that one in the fog - it didn't help. Also walked across from Areiro (third highest peak) to Ruivo (highest peak) and back via Torres (second highest peak) which involves crossing cliff faces on narrow paths, bits of which are missing having been destroyed by rockfalls. The way back on that route is the only place I've felt what the phenomenon of 'exposure' is like - described as feeling like a fly on a wall. Fortunately I also established that I don't suffer from it:001_smile: Still prefer to do that than climb that tower though! Alec

Is it fairly small with the flowers hanging down in racemes like a laburnum? If so, could be Garrya elliptica. Alec

Likewise anyone who needs a tip site in southern Cambridgeshire/southern Suffolk/northern Essex is welcome to tip at mine - prefer no crisp packets etc but stones/dirt/leaves/conny all fine:001_smile: Drop me a PM. Alec

Yes, it is pretty dark, although also quite variable, and some really nice grain in places. You can see the dry colour in my current avatar. Elm has to be one of my favourite timbers:001_smile: Alec

Ah - wasn't sure which sort Burrell had taken down as it looked quite orange in the pictures. I think of Huntingdon elm as looking like the picture below (wet surface) - although I think this one is hybrid with Wych elm as it has some green in places. Alec

Not necessarily. You can be a registered sole trader but you don't specifically need a number anymore (used to be an agricultural holding number, rather than a livestock number - covered arable, orchards and smallholdings too:001_smile:). Very easy to get registered - you just ring them up and confirmation comes in the post! Alec

Not everything on ebay is junk - there are some real bargains to be had. For various reasons, I am about to list an industrial laser. It is old, but in full working order. It will start on a 99p auction with no reserve and I really don't care what it makes! My approach with chainsaws is to buy the ones which state that they are spares or repair, at the appropriate price to replace the pot and piston with a good quality non-OEM one. If the pot and piston are good then I will be up. If they are not, I will be covered. It would be exceptional for more to be wrong with it than that in terms of expensive parts that you couldn't see were shot/missing. Alec

Depends if Dave can hang on to it that long! Alec

Do you mind what thread it is? The thread in the picture is pretty coarse - looks around 0.5" but doesn't quite look like 1/2" Whitworth. It would be much easier to make if a standard thread can be used. Do you need the detail feature at the other end (the little raised bit)? If so, that's the key diameter to work from. The originals are plated - looks to be chrome. Do you need to replicate this? If you get stuck, drop me a PM. Alec

Nice colour - is that the bit you had from Burrell? Alec

I'm guessing a diameter around the middle of 28", but if you run a tape around it (not over any of the lumps/side branch stubs) I can be more accurate. Based on the above, you've got around 45 Hoppus feet. This isn't perfect with the branch stubs at the top, so you could take a bit off, but is close enough. If you want to price to sell, I would offer it at £4/Hoppus foot, ie £180. I'd love to have it but I think my transport might just give up the ghost if I did! Alec

Totally off-topic, but those also look to be some rather nicely coloured pantiles - about the shade I was originally looking for to go on my porch

Many Thanks Chris - I'm sure if I add a bit of ginger I won't know the difference:001_smile: Alec

That is some really neatly finished stuff - what did you do with it all? Alec

Thanks Chris, that's the one I'm after. I'll drop you a PM (thanks for the offer too Slackbladder). So long as I don't confuse the whisky miniature I should be fine! Alec

True - but at 3m tall with a 10cm diameter it sounds more like MM106 than M27, 9 or 26, in which case it would be OK unstaked. Wind effects can be funny - it's a bit like the way the trees in the middle of a wood all blow over if the edge goes. If you had a gust from an odd direction, or a bit of eddying around that could be all it takes to set it off. We had a load fall over in '87 which would probably have survived if the wind had been from the NE like normal. If it's making reasonable growth I would say it will get away OK. At 2-3m tall, I would also consider heading it back, but if it's not struggling I would leave the top alone other than normal pruning for a couple of years to encourage rooting, then take the top out to give it a bit more stability, but that depends on the shape of course (guessing a bit without photos). Trees on MM106 or equivalent can comfortably be kept to 'picking from the ground' height. Alec

Unfortunately nobody supplies them in the UK - they are made by Ripsaw in the US and are very difficult to import (I bought mine secondhand on ebay after two years waiting for one to turn up). You can get an impression of what it can do from the video posted by Burrell on page 15 of this thread - from about 1:05 onwards. Alec

OK, it's got some roots, just not very solid. You would probably find a few structural roots but a lack of good fibrous structure. The root system on dwarfed fruit trees can be a bit weak (it's how they stay dwarf). Once they get blown a bit, they develop 'wind rock' where the top sways, breaking the smaller roots as they try to establish, so they struggle to get going again. To break the cycle, I would knock in a stake, diagonally so it's away from the root system. I would use a bit of sweet chestnut, robinia or oak heartwood as you want it to survive longer than an untreated softwood post will. Work out which way the prevailing winds blow and put the stake on the upwind side, so the tree blows away from it, rather than on to it - this will stop it rubbing the bark. I would then tie it fairly securely - I use old pushbike inner tube from the local cycle shop, just remember to check it's not too tight each year. I would also make the soil nice and encouraging for the young roots by putting a good mulch out to the drip line, something well rotted, over a double layer of cardboard so it kills the weeds and then the worms drag it in. Give it 3yrs or so and it should be fine. Alec

Hi Richard, yes and yes - I'll drop you a PM. Alec

They are quite a beautiful colour - it's hard to capture it but they really are that sort of buttery golden colour (compare with the dullness of the background and you can see it isn't a trick of the camera). In the long term I may well have some spare, but I would recommend not buying unseasoned pear as it has a really nasty tendency to twist and split. I would let the miller (ie me) take the risk! Once it's dry it's extremely stable and takes a really crisp finish. Alec

Cheers Chris, by my reckoning I only need around 40ml Alec

How do you know they have no root? Alec

I'm trying to make an end grain chopping board as a Christmas present for my wife - all going well (will put pictures up when done). I am using sycamore and will finish with Osmo Top Oil as food safe, however it recommends using Osmo Wood Protector on timber which is prone to blue stain (which sycamore is) - apparently a single coat is required. I don't really want to buy a whole can for the one job, as I don't see myself doing much with paler, bluestain prone timbers (I tend to use oak/sweet chestnut for most things). As such, is there anyone who could send me a small quantity in the post - enough to coat a single 10"x15" chopping board? I will of course reimburse postage. Cheers Alec