wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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Forgot to mention: When I had your saw apart, the first thing I checked for was wear on the needle bearing and any odd wear on the clutch drum. It seemed fine to me. If the needle bearing is still in good nick and you don't see any odd wear inside the drum, I wouldn't worry much. Especially on that saw. The way it cuts now, any issues with that set up would have certainly shown themselves by now. I like to use lithium or synthetic grease on the bearing cages, btw. We have synthetic we use on the tractor here, and it seems to work fine on my bearings on both my ported saws, as well as my nose sprockets. I lube the bearings once a week, and do sprocket noses before every outing.
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Here's the chainsaw in question, btw: [ame] [/ame]
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Yer not having issues with that 261 are ya?
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This is the firewood pile we made during that penis escapade:
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Did someone say saw porn? I recently swapped an 18" picco set on to my ported 241. Not only is it great at cutting wood, it's not half bad for sculpting. I left this little gem out in the woods earlier today.
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If you have a husky or a stihl, I would stick with the same make. Some of the folks responding to this thread were victims of earlier units acting up. They both had teething problems, but most of their issues are well behind them now. The 550 handles nicely, and weighs a bit less than the 261. The 261cm has loads of power though, especially modified. I would get whichever appeals to you most.
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Over a pound difference? I would work it out by checking the bar and the fluids, all else being equal.
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That information would be far more helpful if you weighed an empty PHO. Here is my current gallery. It needs to be updated to include images of a few of the newer saws. A contributor to this effort, Neal Murphy of Georgia informed me an MS261 he repaired recently weighed in at 11lbs 14 ounces US. Unfortunately, he lost the image before he could send it to me. Unofficial Chainsaw Weight Gallery Photo Gallery by WYK at pbase.com
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The real world weights I have seen(actual weighted powerheads VS factory reported weights) show the MS261 closer to 5.3-5.4 KG's.
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That's 11 ounces, which puts the weight of the 261 closer to a 560 than a 550. Such a thing is certainly noticeable in the 50cc class. Having said that, the 550 is not as robust a build(well, after the teething problems of the 261 were weeded out...). But, it must be said, handles far better. The 261 cm's I have ran were very strong and responsive saws. They also have the largest gain I have ever seen in a saw with a modified muffler so long as the baffle is removed(30% + improvement in cut time). It most certainly is not universally hated, from what I have seen from the owners. In fact, I have heard of plenty of teething problems with the 550xp as well.
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I didn't notice a huge difference in handling between the 420 or my 241cm(in mostly stock form as it is now ported). The 420 with an open muffler does rather well for a 42cc saw. In stock form with a simple muffler mod, the 241 and 420 aren't light years apart, and certainly not as far apart as their difference in costs would suggest. However, the cat needs to be removed from the 420 for it to work well, but this is very easy for even a layman to do as it an internal component of the muffler that simply pops right out. Having said that, the 550XP is one of the best handling saws out there, with the only possible exception in the 50cc class being the Echo 500P at half a pound lighter. However, the 550 does cost considerably more than a 420.
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jis a lil nudge up the page
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Cut it from one side only to match the cuts. Gets the job done faster. As an aside, this is also one of the reasons they have larger dogs stateside. It makes it much easier to buck wood from one side of it when it's much wider than your bar.
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I make do with 42cc's much of the time on a 17" er. [ame] [/ame] If needs be, I have other options:
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btw, anyone know someone that could drill a hole for a decomp into my 281 jug?
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My puter AND mobile left this life unexpectedly. Had to scramble just to replace them. Mildly ported. Added some intake, got slightly jiggy with the transfetrs, a lot of exhaust(in timing more than width to keep the dynamic compression reasonable and make her easier to pull over), also removed a ring - it had two full sized rings. The fit was tight-ish, but since the bore is VERY hard chrome plated(ask me how I know), I am not afraid of it scoring if things go arseways. I was unimpressed with the feel of the rings, tho. Very hard and un-elastic. So gonna order a new caber one. Hell, might just get a new piston just to be safe.
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Decided to do a mild port job on the 281xp. I managed to get some good compression simply removing the base gasket. But there were consequences. Removing the base gasket got me this: Which resulted in this: Damaging this: That's the bottom of the starter handle in two pieces there. Granted it is a HyWay cheap repro of a Stihl Elasto Start - but this happened whilst getting the compression. So as it stands, all I know is it is somewhere beyond 208psi or so... and I need to replace the starter handle.
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I've ran many saws with the spur sprocket without any issues In fact my 281xp has a spur sprocket. Andrew give me a ring tomorrow. I've a new phone and your number didn't come over.
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This is what I have in that cc bracket for saw weights from my thread on AS: Echo cs-400 10lbs.04oz Stihl ms 241 c-m 10lbs.09oz Echo 500p 10lbs.09oz Dolmar ps-420 10lbs.11oz Stihl ms 026 10lbs.15oz Bear in mind that 500P and 026 are 49cc saws. The 500P is based upon the Shindaiwa 446/452/502 chassis.
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They aren't quite as hard as Stihl bars but certainly worth every penny they ask. Light for their lengths as well.
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281xp doing what 281's do:
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In dirty conditions - 404 semi chisel seems to last forever vs 3/8.
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She does alright. Could use a sharper chain in this vid, tho. But not bad for being buried in a tree. [ame] [/ame]
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Ahh yeahh
