corylus

As a slight aside to an interesting thread, when does a pollard become a coppice? This might seem an odd question but my belief has always been that pollarding height is above the browse line of any animal likely to nip off the re-growth. If I were to cut to say 2 foot so as to avoid rabbits nibbling (all other stock being excluded) would that be pollarding, coppicing (probably not!) or 'copparding? Is there any history of low-level pollarding? Any pointers to the latter question would be most gratefully received.

Oh no theyre not !!!!!!! News from YDNPA - Two fined over tree felling in National Park

The name wheatear is our modern version of 'white-arse' btw.

Neither are 'poor and inneficient'. The report deals with efficiency only, and the stoves are all so close that in day to day use you will probably not notice any difference in amount of logs used (for a given output) If you sell Clarke tools you should realise their stoves are going to be 'cheap and cheerful' too. (The one I bought as a workshop heater a few years back was the biggest pile of rubbish I have ever had the misfortune to own. I junked it after a few burns and made my own from a gas bottle...ugly but far superior. I presume the more expensive Clarke stoves are better) Dont get confused though. As I said quality isnt cheap, set yrself a budget and go and visit a few spots to look at stoves. Talk to the diffrent dealers and make yr own mind up. And dont forget to get a pretty one, hopefully you will spend many hundreds of winter hours gazing at it lovingly.

Dont quite understand why mendiplogs is 'sorry' to say i'm right.???? I believe I am, but as a poor creature of the heath I am open to correction. PS Already bin to the pub (Jon)

Quality aint cheap. If you think youre getting a good efficient stove for £500 you are WRONG.

Most fungi that affect wood produce microscopic spores that are very light weight and can be carried long distances by the wind and air currents. These spores fall onto wood surfaces and if the moisture conditions are suitable (approx 28-30%) they will germinate. If moisture content is kept below 20%, fungal decay will not develop. So if the fungus is active, yr woods too wet. If dry after a fungal attack, the calorific value of your wood will be lower, ie less heat per log (everything else being equal, before all the pedants get going) Lots more about fungal attack (including the above) here.... Wood Decay Fungi

Yes firebricks protect your stove (to a point), but it doesnt mean more heat 'goes up the shute', the implication being a negative effect on efficiency. (Clearview stoves have fire bricks but are amongst the most efficient.) The 'physical' design of the stove, ie how it combusts the gasses and 'extracts' the heat thereof before entering the flue, dictates its efficiency (not including effect on the stove of a poorly functioning flue).

Its a very interesting argument reagarding sycamore. It does make wonderful firewood (for stoves) but is invasive. It coppices well up int' North Pennines ere, if the squiggs, bunns and deer dont get there first. Web are now actively coppicing for (personal) firewood production, whilst planting 'local' natives wherever possible. Hopefully the best of both worlds. BTW I am a girl....... Rayburns been on a week now!

Just had a thought regarding Morse/Jotul and any other Scandinavian stove manufacturers. I presume the Swede's etc burn mainly softwood (albeit slower grown than ours), but does this affect stove design. Does softwood have different 'volatiles' to hardwood? I would be interested to know your thoughts, scrub that, i would be interested if you would pass on your 'knowledge' on this!

Have just installed a Clearview 400. Charcoal in it this morn! I've had a Clearview 500 in larger rooms for many years. I dont know why they are so efficient, but suspect it has something to do with the secondary combustion air being pre-heated as it travels round inside the stove before 'washing over' (and keeping clean) the door glass, which is double-glazed (with an air gap, unlike the euro-heat which has two sheets of glass next to each other, if memory serves me right). Euro-heat was the only other stove I considered, they look almost spot-on. Only thing I wasnt 100% on was the air controller which looked more prone to long term problems, whereas the Clearview's are v simple. I imagine that the Euro-heat controls have been designed with their 'remote control' option thingy in mind. Whatever next. AND you have to open a door to get to them!! I too wondered at the old adage of cast being superior, but 12+ years of a non-cast Clearview (never replaced firebricks, cos they are still OK) have dispelled any concerns. The arguments about cast retaining heat better are spurious, as it just means it takes a bit longer to heat the room, but goes on heating a bit longer for a given amount of fuel, in very simplistic terms. Look up 'thermal mass' if you want more gen. As for Morso, only have experience of 2, both of which need looking after, ie bits burning though need replacing. Have a Jotul 402(???) as well. Simple woodburner. No problems with that. BUT as for the £300-500 stoves, they will indeed cost you more in both terms of logs used, and replacement bits, thats if the spares are available.

Clearview everytime. Simple, efficient, cleanburning (Nice clear glass) and long lasting. Not cheap....QUALITY ISN'T. British made and able to have a boiler fitted anytime. Clearview Woodburning Stoves- UK, wood burning stoves, multi fuel stoves and smoke control stoves

Have just bought a pair of Airstreams (online, as there's nowhere to try different boots on anywhere nearby). I currently have 2 other pairs of Meindl's (Antartkis? and another similar) both size 45, so expected the 45 Airstreams to fit. They dont. TOO SMALL Any other 'remote purchasers' BEWARE.

PM me your details and I will keep them for when people ask for logs. Sorry but don't sell trees/wood.

Tried straight away to edit when I realised my crass mistakes. Nevermind. Anyway cheers to those who have PM'd me with loggy details.

Cant seem to edit the above:confused1: Should have read.... As a woodland owner (who doesnt sell firewood) I keep getting asked about logs. I know of no one locally who sells, and I cant find anyone in the directory either. Anyone selling loads somewhere locally to me, DL11 or 15 miles west of Scotch Corner?

As a woodland owner (who doesnt sell firewood) I keep getting asked about logs. I cant find anyone in the directory either. Anyone know who does loads somewhere locally to me, DL11 or 15 miles west of Scotch Corner?

I tried both Stihl and Echo when wanting one a few years back. Stihl was very flexible in the shaft so I chose the echo. No problems so far!

A chap once came and asked if he could fell a small dead elm with a nice burr on it for turning, in exchange for logging it up for me. He described where it was and I said OK. Only later was I to discover the tree he meant was on the land next to ours, ie the next farm. They were happy with the fire wood though

Has anyone any experience of propagating willow sp. from setts. I have done thousands by cutting em' and just sticking them in along river banks (I am the riparian owner btw before anyone ticks me off for guerilla planting) but sometimes lose a few in sandy areas well above the water line, especially if we have a dry spring (like this year). So i've planted a test batch of c50 (from c5-20mm diameter) in 6" lengths of 1 1/2" waste pipe, and am keeping them moist. Hopefully they will root and when transplanted next winter will have a better chance of survival than ones done by the other method. BUT I want to do a lot more but dont want to waste my time so anyone have any ideas? I am presuming from what i've read from various sources that summer cuttings are ok to do if properly looked after????

The idea of bruising is very interesting. I drove a quad across and back along the same path through the young bracken (12" max) and it didnt grow that year, and took 3-4 years to grow to the same height as 'its peers', ie the path (previously un-ridden) was visible in the summer for 3-4 years. (It must be the thundery weather making my writing so clumsy:blushing:) Cattle sparsley applied in spring works very well too. Better make sure theres no good flowers tho!)

Try here. They may be able to helpLogosol M7 | Sawmills | LOGOSOL Sorry to be sarky!!! From a happy M7 (with MS660) user. Best of luck finding one

Although not in any manufacturers handbook, increasing the weight forward of the front wheels on a quad helps a lot with traction in mud and with uphill stability. I found this by accident when I 'hooked' a rack I had made on the tubular steel front guard on my Grizzly 600. It is designed to carry 100-150 tree stakes. As I wanted to keep it safe the rack carries them about 18" to 2' of the ground. Low centre of gravity and a massive increase in traction and feeling of security! Cheap, useful and easy to do too.

Any arb related japes this morning?

Oop 'ere in't Yorkshire Dales NP plenty of butchery goes on. Only once have I heard of any action been taken by the Park Authority. They have the power to act, but sadly fail to. Maybe they are scared of Yorkshire farmers!