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coppiceer

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Everything posted by coppiceer

  1. You could also try the Small Woodland Owners Group. They seem to be mainly South-East focused. SWOG • Index page
  2. This site might be helpful: Mistletoe UK Gateway Page
  3. I don't think this is a silly question at all, here is a quote from Jon Evelyn's Sylva: "Ash will be propagated from a bough slipt off with some of the old wood, a little before the bud swells, but with difficulty by layers." I haven't tried it yet but I will give it a go next spring. If you do some experiments then let us all know how you get on. Evelyn also goes into great depth regarding the technique of propagation by seed. The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sylva, by John Evelyn.
  4. I haven't. But I have had emails passed on to me via the NFc. from people in the past. The NFc simply pass these on, without prejudice, for any woodland owner to take up if they are interested.
  5. You could contact the National Forest Company and ask them to pass on an enquiry to their existing owners. You could offer to manage some of their woodland in exchange for the produce. A lot of the tender schemes are on farms were the farmer hasn't really got an interest in managing the woodland as a going concern, they simply needed the capital injection to refinance their farming business. A relationship like this might eventually lead to an opportunity to buy.
  6. I spent years looking in vain for woodland in Leicestershire. Eventually I had the luck, and I mean luck, to buy some agricultural land via a private sale and plant on it. The National Forest company used to maintain a register of land/ woodland for sale within the forest. If you get on the mailing list you will at least see what is on the market. My experience was that the "guide" price was actually the starting price. nationalforest.org | Creating Woodlands Good Luck.
  7. Gosh! My wife has been growing runner beans for 40 years and this year has been (no pun intended) the worst ever. Only 3 plants out of 36 have gotten above 3' in height and only 8 spindly little beans harvested to date.
  8. You haven't mentioned species, but in general trees/shrubs do not require high levels of nutrients to thrive. It is far more important to suppress grass and weeds around the roots until they are well established. Sometimes adding nutrients encourages the weeds more than the trees. Unless the soil is little more than building rubble I would leave well alone.
  9. Absolutely. I hope that Chris Froome is allowed to fight it out with Alberto Contador and Andy Schleck in the upcoming Tour of Spain, without being shackled to Wiggins. With 13 mountain stages and 6 mountain-top finishes only the best man (Mr Froome) can hope to win fair and square.
  10. Having seen both Wiggins and Chris Frome in action during last year's LA Vuelta, my money is on Mr Frome.
  11. I spent a good deal of time looking to buy land. I went to uite a few public autions and participated in telephone auction. A site with good road access and close to a town/village always attracts a lot of interest: a couple of years ago 6.5 acres of neglected scrubland near to a local village went for £118,000. If not an "ideal" site, there seem to be some things that can be done to "improve" a site if you have equipment to-hand: if its arable then convert it to pasture; put in a pond or 2 and arrange any streams to supply them; put the boundaries in a good state of repair, etc. The agents/auctioneers are in a good position to judge the level of interest shown and arrange the type of sale accordingly. Often the actual auction boils down to a battle of wills between the 2 or 3 final bidders. Resulting in the inevitable winners curse: they have paid "too much". .
  12. I think you ought to be aware of a slight security problem with the rear door. I have a 2003 1.9d version. If I lower the rear hatch so that appears to be shut, but is only resting on the sill, the central locking quite happily "locks" all of the other doors without any giving any warniing. All of the other 4 doors are locked properly but I can open the tailgate and rummage around to my hearts content. I now have an obsessive compulsion to check my rear tailgate whenever i "lock" my vehicle. Otherwise I have found it an eminently practical vehicle for transporting quite bulky bits of equipment, bags of small trees, bags of compost, etc.
  13. I don't want to depress you, but for that acreage in that location you should treat the "guide" price as a starting price.
  14. I agree. Sorry to hear about your troubles. I would undertake a careful survey of all of the trees to get the full scale of the problem. If the crowns of the trees are not dying then I would leave them and concentrate on the real problem: a lack of squirrel control. It will be easier and cheaper to control the squirrels than changing your management method and, then, having to cope with deer browsing off all of your coppice regrowth. I you must coppice then, then leave around 8"-12" of stump; leave a clean sloping cut of around 30-45 degrees; and ensure that the stumps are not overshadowed by surrounding trees. A lack of light will kill off any new growth as surely as deer.
  15. Interesting thread, thankyou. I would like to see a Swedish Candle. Photo please? Anyone?
  16. I agree. If you can find a pedestrian flail you will get a much better cut on both of your areas than with the DR. I have used a ride-on flail mover and a 14hp DR mower and the flail was definitely the better finish of the two.
  17. Welcome to the forum. I have a 435e and its underpowered for what you want to do. I would go for at least a 346xp.
  18. Very interesting info, thankyou. The rest of the blade looks like this: It is a brilliant billhook to use, much better than a new Morris one that I bought. It is so good I think it deserves a properly fitted handle to respect the maker and previous owners.
  19. It says j Harrison N0. 2 on the blade, so I assume that's who made it. I have attached a photo. I didn't do the botched handle job by the way. I shall contact Peter Woods and see what he says. Thanks for that.
  20. Does anyone know where I can get a billhook rehandled?
  21. I find that cherry doesn't split very cleanly. It also seems to have quite a lot of resin. I found that burning it, after cutting and storing for a year and then splitting, left a lot of nasty tar/creosote deposits on my stove and chimney. I would definitely split anything above 2" in diameter and store it for a year before attempting to use.
  22. Brambles will become one of your constant problems, They certainly will regrow and the lovely little birds will drop new pips all over your wood. You might consider a regime of cutting back the worst of your bramble growth each autumn to about 6" and spraying the new shoots in the following spring before much else is shooting. This technique works well for me on an ex-farmland plantation but, being a new woodland to you, you should check this first spring to see if anything is growing under the bramble that you might want to keep safe.
  23. I bought a Gomtaro recently to see how it compared to the Super Accel and I was a bit shocked at the thinness of the blade. I won't be buying another.
  24. This link should tell you what you need: KERB GRANULES 7.5KGS When I used Kerb a few years ago, I found it best to take the turf off around the trees and then spread the granules onto reasonably bare earth. I also had trouble distributing the granules evenly, but the new applicator looks like it is much better than when I did it.
  25. I am no expert on Alder I'm afraid, but this goes along with what I have experienced with other trees. John Evelyn's family made their fortunes from charcoaling Alder in the 17th. century; this is what he says: "3. You may cut aquatic-trees every third or fourth year, and some more frequently, as I shall shew you hereafter. They should also be abated within half a foot of the principal head, to prevent the perishing of the main stock; and besides, to accelerate their [Pg 157] sprouting. The Project Gutenberg eBook of Sylva, by John Evelyn.

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