spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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JB weld my friend - just clean up the surfaces with strong solvent, soap and water etc:thumbup:
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Whats on my bench - a nice compression gauge, found this at the local market, couldn't resist, offered £10 and the trader accepted - only found out its true value when I got home....£130 - £150 new. It comes with the taps for cleaning out the plug threads as well as all the attachments for extending the connector and a spare set of O rings and spare valve:thumbup: Bit of a bargain:thumbup1:
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There's me thinking you used harsh language:001_rolleyes:
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Nice one Martin
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Typical, the guy I fixed the 254XP for earlier in this thread was told the bottom end wouldn't take a new piston and would he like to purchase a new saw
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Yes it will work, I use a similar one that is conventially used by trail bike users as a rev counter. These tachs must have a wire wrapped round the HT lead rather than held near the HT lead - this can be an inconvenience but not much. Other needs are to measure one spark per crank revolution, a need to go up to at least 15,000rpm and also a 1/2 second refresh, without this, the tach is slow to refresh and needs you to hold the saw at WOT much longer. The latter tiny tachs have a 1/2 second reresh so as long as this is fact, should be OK be be aware of the above.
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Here we go, another 357 with uneven idle - have had this one in before, pressure test is 100% as I have replaced the troublesome inlet boot. comp check a very healthy 160psi, pressure check fine, repeated by plugging AFTER the carb - airleak - it is leaking around the throttle pivot - have stripped and will see what I can do on rebuild but that is the route cause as the rest of the carb has been ultrasonically cleaned, checked and rebuilt.
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Yup - standard procedure, raise the piston, look at the exhaust side, lower it and look at the back of the bore - it is a four year old aftermarket P&C, thought it looked a bit clean and the owner confirmed - the compression is good - got two gauges with different one way valves and one shows good residual compression and the other with the schrader valve shows all components are 100%. On less good bores, the latter gauge reads low - in this case I had 150psi on both:thumbup: Just tached it and it now runs well - slight variation at idle that I have tracked down to a very slight leak around the throttle valve pivot but not worthy of a new carb yet. This was an interesting one!
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Right - the 038 magnum, pressure checked 100% fine, compression 150psi, carb cleaned, piston looked fine - the bugger didn't start - 15 pulls and the plug looked a little damp - no flooding so the carb isn't working right. Riched up both screws - the same, not even a pop - the plug is sparking fine. Noticed the fast idle doesn't click off on opening the throttle and the carb throttle valve plate isn't being opened by the fast idle setting. Adjusted the throttle linkage and the spring that works on the black horizontal throttle/choke linkage and this mechanism works fine. Tried starting tonight - 3rd pull a good pop, take the choke off - two more pulls and off she runs, just needs a tach tune for final setup:thumbup:
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Have PMed you what to use!
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I think most of the guys on this site will go for Stihl, Husky or Oregon chains, I think Oregon make the chains for Husky anyway. Only time I would deviate is if I was cutting dirty wood or old pallets for kindling wood and haven't got a well used chain to fit. Most people have the opinion that the cost saving will dissapear when you have to stop and sharpen more often and they will stretch more- Stihl chains are pre stretched at manufacture.....and the new ones still stretch:001_rolleyes:
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One for the dealer - personally I would take the saw after you have used it, pop off the cover, bar and chain, clean all the chips and old oil off the saw and stand it on a clean bit of newspaper - it could be your new saw is oiling better or just has been set to the max where your old one hasn't. If it leaks more than a drop or two overnight then you may have a problem. Typical issues are leaks between the hoses that connect via a compression joint on the oil pump but you should be able to see where it is coming from on the saw. If you are 15" - 18", put the oiler on middle setting!
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Yup - clockwise will make the saw race and die on initial pickup, anti clockwise will slow the saws idle and make the saw a little smokey on idle - hard part is getting the position bang in the middle!
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Yup - give it about 1/8 turn counter clockwise and the idle will need a slight increase and then give it a fistfull and see if it improves it, if it needs a bit more then do this again but wouldn't go anymore than 1/2 turn over factory. There is no danger to the saw but if you are not comfortable doing it, you may make a hash of it. Don't adjust the H setting without being either experience or a tach.
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Probably just a tweak to the "L" screw to richen the mid range mixture - that is the usual reason for the slight hessitation from idle.
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Here's the next one, a Stihl 038 Magnum, got an uneven idle - not even fired it up but the plug tells a tale - it is the white one on the end, the one in the middle came from the MS880 mentioned earlier and the one on the left from a hedge trimmer. Note how white the two plugs are - a sure sign of a weak mix and possible bad adjusted carb or air leak:thumbdown: Next step - pressure check:thumbup1:
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My Muffler modded and ported 346XP:thumbup:
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Probably a 154 or 2548@
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It depends on your budget, if things are tight, I have some old school Huskys that may suit - 80cc and look to be in good nick - they won't break the bank!
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From what I can see, the bore looks fixable, in fact it looks much cleaner than the MS880 that I cleaned earlier in this thread, that must have had around 0.1mm of aluminium transfer on the bore and looked much nastier. If you want it done - PM me!
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
The original comment by RXE was fine - he is saying if the idle becomes unstable then don't just retune the carb, recognise something has changed and a pressure check may save your saw an expensive repair bill. Got one just like that at the moment and can't fault the advice. You can tune carbs by ear, the idle "L" mix is fairly intuitive but the "H" speed is critical and not something the uninitiated should take on with an expensive saw - I do this with a tach as customers expect this and I am usually 1,000 down when tuned by ear. The plug colour is a useful guide, the MS880 I have in bits with a seized piston had a plug that was too clean with white deposits so being able to read a plug is useful but is a check to be done once you have set the carb up by ear or tach and done a few cuts and as a back up check to correct running. Thats my opinion:thumbup1: -
What about a picture - has the cylinder been removed yet? If not, pop the muffler off and lets have a look:thumbup: Thats one expensive saw, we can rebuild it, we have the technology to build the worlds first bionic saw:001_rolleyes:
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The majority of crank seals I have found have been completely gone with only the metal spring band being left - amazed people still run their saw when the idle is that bad. This was an interesting one - http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/spudulike-albums-stihl-066-picture3932-deformed-crank-seal-previous-rebuild.html Look carefully and you can see the seal has been turned inside out when it has been replaced - by a dealer and not by me I hasten to add, I got it once it had gone bang! Not much of a leak but enough to ring alarm bells and find the fault:thumbup:
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Personally I let others sort out the teething problems.......whats wrong with Windows 95 anyway:confused1:
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
I think we learn circa 75% doing and 25% being told or reading what to do, I have tended to learn from doing but also seeking info if I don't know. Start with the basics of cleaning and lubing the moving parts, bar and chain maintenance and then start looking at the engine and carb parts. Personally I look at what the machine needs, whatever it is - and then ensure it gets it. In non tech terms, an engine needs fuel, compression and spark - just need to understand how the parts provide this:001_smile: Each saw has something new to throw at you but after a while it all becomes very much an instinctive thing to get them going again. Think this sort of maintenance is becoming a lost art in todays world:thumbdown:
