spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Like the "Made in England" on the G clamp - those were the days when we manufactured something!
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
I'm the same - free firewood is also welcome:thumbup: -
Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
OK - your back on for a card at Chrimbo - my prices are directly in proportion with customers attitude:lol: fortunately yours have just been reduced:thumbup: -
Bet the neighbours were relieved when they saw your rmisses the next morning though:lol: I was politely asked once to stop running the 298XP as the baby was sleeping next door - man that is a loud saw - probably on par with the 076:thumbup:
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Just bung some Aspen in it and run it indoors:001_rolleyes: And for those who don't know better - I AM JOKING:lol: Fortunately I service my neighbours saws so I get an easy ride!
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Right - take the bar and chain off, put the side cover back on so it doesn't catch the sprocket and in case the clutch comes loose and start up the saw and see if the engine is sluggish and boggy. If it is sluggish on pickup then it is probably the L screw is a bit lean - this causes the drop and eventual pick up in saws especially when cold - the 345, 346, 350 Huskys do it when cold but for seconds only. If the saw revs up fine without the bar but is sluggish with the bar then it may be what I said before. It is under dealer warranty - let them sort it, from what I have heard, FR Jones are a good agent! Hope this isn't a sign of the American EPA laws impacting on our UK saws:thumbdown:
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Mister-Solutions Ltd just put the part number you need in to the search box:thumbup:
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Yup firewood for log burners, mix it with hardwoods like oak that don't burn so well on their own - it is all worth cash!
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But if the engine is running and revving well - there isn't too much left between the crank shaft and the spinning chain ........... sprocket bearing, clutch drum, clutch shoes/springs, chain, chain to bar friction, nose sprocket......thats about it unless the symptoms are misleading:confused1:
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
Erm - as much as half an hour, thats you off my Christmas card list:001_rolleyes: But what do I know............................:lol: -
Have you taken the chain brake off:001_rolleyes: I think a clutch that is engaging at higher revs that normal seems the most logical reason for the chain not to turn at the point around 3500 revs is hit. perhaps the clutch shoes are tight on the clutch boss. Other thing to check is the nose sprocket on your bar - had these bind up before on my 345 when doing deep cuts.
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excellent:thumbup:
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Nothing on the parts list apart from the crank case mounted ones, checked the 026 and nothing there either. I have made sets of dogs before, just carved them out of some thick gauge steel and used the original ones as a template. Only seen them on the bigger saws though - typically 066, 880, 3120.......
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Yes - hopefully it will get it going - just purchased one myself and yet to use it! The symptoms reflect a leaking needle valve with the only other possibillity being a main jet that has a faulty one way valve. Hopefully the US cleaner will sort it otherwise it will be a £25 EBAY special.
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May be worth cleaning it with carb cleaner down the H and L screw adjuster holes before junkig it:confused1:
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Possible the tank presure is pushing petrol in to the carb and a faulty main jet is allowing the fuel in to the carb - normally this is caused by a leaking needle valve - you sure it is working ok:confused1:
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Hell thunder - sell the parts, the damn thing is a door stop:biggrin: The diaphragm should never push against the needle metering lever holding it open, what should happen is the top of the carb uses crank pressure to pull fuel up from the tank, the fuel goes through an internal gauze filter, past the needle and fill the lower metering chamber, once the chamber is full of fuel, the diaphragm is pulled away from the metering lever and the fuel stops flowing in to the carb as the needle closes. One thought - dry the saw out, screw the H screw fully in and try to start it - don't scream it if it starts for obvious reasons but just interested if it cuts down the problem. I am thinking faulty main jet (should have a one way flow) or a deformed diaphragm.
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Dads got a Jotul - a big one and really kicks out heat, I have a Small Stovax Riva that I think is great - very modern looking inset and my elder brother is a Clearview man - all work well and are efficient - think watching the fire is better than the TV most of the time!
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I guess the £250 OEM Mahle kit is out of the question, personally I would go to ArbIreland on Ebay, they do the only closed port cylinder that I know of in the UK. The original cylinder is closed port and has two transfer ports in either side of the cylinder rather than the cheaper open port channels as found on most lower cost saws (I know the MS200T and other decent saws also have open ports:001_rolleyes:) Chris Shepherd has used one on his 357 - I havent used one but that is the one I would fit - £10 more expensive but probably worth it IMO.
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It's not my saw, it is another members - year - 2007, he got it secondhand and it had a bit of a life and he cleaned it up but to be honest, it looks in good condition - little paint wear on front and underneath, clean plastic and carb etc. He is a lucky man as there are no MS880 aftermarket kits, even the piston on its own is £110 so to have the bore clean up like this saved a £400 OEM P&C kit:thumbup: It will run again and will post the final compression after a bit of a run! Will make sure it doesn't go bang again which is equally as important as a good clean bore. One very big saw:thumbup1:
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Most saws will seep a bit after use - have you tried cleaning off the excess oil and chips after a days use and then put it on a clean piece of paper to see if it still is leaking! It could be the breather is a bit glooped up and causes a vacuum when using and then pulls the oil up a bit after use....not sure what else it could be without inspection.
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
Not a bad idea to work on an old banger of a saw - I started on a poorly Stihl 009, went to a Husky 345, Husky 254XP, Husky 181........... -
Give it back to your dealer - other than that, it is probably the seal between the rubber pickup pipe or outlet pipe and the oil pump - clutch will need to be removed to get to it.
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Going to be a case of checking tank breather, fuel pipes, air and fuel filters. worth pulling the top cover off the carb (not the diaphragm one) and checking the gauze filter hasn't got crap in it. It is possible the rings have worn if the thing has been used to death - I did work in a 350 strimmer/brushcutter where the ends were about half thickness and compression had gone!
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Is there an idiots guide to servicing a chainsaw?
spudulike replied to hardtop110's topic in Firewood forum
Early years fixing bicycles, teen and 20s working on motor bikes, late 20s working on cars and 20 years printing and working on power presses, press tools, PLC controlled assembly machines and of course - a few years working on saws:thumbup: It's in the blood & DNA:biggrin:
