spudulike

Dishwasher.....my wife would kill me if I did that, been tempted many times though:lol: Nice little haul - service agents are limited to OEM spare prices and one mans junk is anothers gold!

Have now had the cylinder off the 056 Stihl, the piston is a little scored on the inlet and out let side. It looks like a bit of carbon or light seizure on the exhaust side and an ingestion of sawdust on the inlet side. Now got a piston on order, couldn't get a Meteor or Episan as they come in at 52mm and this is 54mm. A light hone with some wet and dry and a new piston should get some good compression readings.

Sounds like you have a carb from a MS181/171 on your saw as they have no H setting!

You and your carb issues - sell it on ebay like the last one:thumbup: Start the saw, adjust for an idle a tad fast, turn in the L screw - the saw will race and then start to die, unscrew the L screw until the saw goes past the fastest idle point and go around 1/4 turn counter clockwise past it and adjust the idle speed - give the saw a fistfull and make sure it picks up ok, if it bogs then take the L screw out a further 1/4 turn and try this.

It is a good idea to get someone else to operate the saw - some I videoed before I had a tach sounded fine when tuning but a bit rich on watching the vid! Good luck - better to be a bit rich than lean!......in terms of £££ as well:thumbup:

The IPL shows all carb variants have H & L screws - Plance éclatées MS 210-MS 210C : Smaf-Touseau.com Are you sure someone hasn't swapped it for one off a strimmer or something - only saw without an H screw I have come across is the MS170/180 and they still have an L screw:confused1:

Going to tear down the 056 - the compression is only 130psi and am reliably informed it should be up in the 160 - 180psi range, some old saws can be a bit quirky on compression readings but it soes seem down so will look at the bore & piston wear and inspect the rings - chances are a nice new piston will bring the saw to life!

The H screw should not be adjusted for best free running, by ear start with the saw running rich and turn the H screw clockwise until the engine revvs freely and then counterclockwise until it just "flubbs" or "warbles" a little - this "fourstroking" will stop when cutting as the saw will need more power and fuel to cut so it won't four stroke in the wood. The theory is the richness in the H setting causes the engine to miss every other stroke thus sounding like a fourstroke - it is a bit like a fuel controlled rev limiter. I am guessing motocross bikes are possibly tuned in a different way but this is the mechanics of the chainsaw.

:lol: very good!! One thing that has always bothered me, why not T25 or T30:confused1: Why T27 - thats German engineering for you - probably like selling their own drives at huge marked up prices:001_rolleyes:

Probably have but not been let loose on one yet:thumbup:

Thanks Al - thought you were still up that tree cutting bits off it in disbelief that it could run that way

I put a pad on MattyFs one before I found a hole around the chain adjuster that had worn in the casting fixed with JB weld:thumbup:

Havent proved the breather theory yet but will clean her tubes out... Oh er missus:thumbup: and report back with findings but this looks at fist glance, to be a possible issue. A pressure check will find any other nasties! I take of the aluminium transfer with an acid applied in the effected areas, wash it off, apply a little light oil and give the area a light rub with a semi course emery, followed by fine emery followed by finishing paper. I give it enough to take the oxidised and etched ally off and a little more to get it smooth - some you win, some you loose -deep vertical scores higher than the exhaust port are bad news! You can soft hone but find my technique works, you can't treat these plated bores as cast iron ones as I am sure you know. I don't use clamps but usually just use a blunt electricians screwdriver and care to put the piston in the barrel - double ring pistons are a little harder than singles but have never broken rings and that includes using the same technique on twin and foour cylinder motorbikes - just needs care! Removing the carry handle does help with refitting the cylinder.

Nope - no bananna - the 394 has an internal impulse line and bolted carb manifold - the 395 has a push on boot with external impulse, you can coinvert them but need a carb, back plate,manifold, air filter assembly and connector manifold and I think the cover needs modifying. I looked in to this first:thumbdown:

The sideways movement is normal, there should be no movement up and down, the bits in the case should not be aluminium if it is from the cage as it sounds like it is. You will need a new crankshaft and that will be a reasonably big job. Will loook at the piston tonight unless Megatron etc know without looking!

And images of the 056

Busy day today - started on an MS460 that has seized - the piston looked awful but the cylinder cleaned up reasonably ok - a small score and a bit of marking but nothing too serious. Have had a dialogue with the owner and it will have a new Meteor piston fitted and reckon it will last OK. The saws plug had good colour which was strange, the breather looks blocked as in the pics but will check out the saw on reassembly to make sure it doesn't die again. Also been working on a 056 Stihl - oiler not working and needs a good clean up.

Be interesting to see how this one turns out - The 62cc saw would be better with a 18-20" bar - I usually use the 1/3 of the cc for the bar length so 1/3rd of 60cc = 20":thumbup: I guess you should ask your dealer to show you the chainbrake assembly, the recoil internals, look at the carb - is it a known make - Walbro, Zamma, Tillotson, does the saw have a semi or full skip chain to mask the oversize bar, are the plastic parts of good gauge and construction, what is the crankcase made of, vertical alloy or clam type engine, what is the chain adjuster like etc etc I would like to hear from an experienced tree surgeon using one for a year or two - taking the Zomax and an AMA apart put me off these cheaper saws - even McCullochs are better built! You pays your money..... Saws I have - 60cc - Jonsered 625, Sachs Dolmar 116, Still MS260 and a few more!

Maybe for you and I but not everyone has the capabillity or confidence to do this sort of work or have the correct equipment. Some struggle to understand the complexities of two stroke engines - doesn't mean they are stupid - their strengths and knowledge probably lay in other areas! I will check out the saw, turn it around quickly and charge a rate that reflects the job in hand and not replace parts that don't need replacing:thumbup: Think the owner is looking at purchasing their own tach - just needs an old banger to experiment on!

Yes - are you sure that this piece of metal is from the big end bearing - has the big end lots of play in it and is all sloppy in the up and down direction - usually the cage cracks and disintegrates leaving the rollers loose and causes a lot of play. It is very unusual for a big end to let loose when an engine seizes - usually the piston and possibly the cylinder goes and possibly the rod bends but is pretty uncommon as the saw usually just grinds to a halt and looses power. This is a big saw and the bottom ends are pretty robust - only seen one saw with a big end gone and that is in my garage - Stihl 028:thumbdown:

Personally I would by a decent second hand saw from Stihl or Husqvarna, it will hold its price far better plus the spares are readily available. Buy decent tools and they will last you years - by cheap and you will be bying again in a year or two. Not sure how old you are but you tend to learn this when you hit the 40 years mark, buy once and buy the best you can justify otherwise you will regret it. There is 4.5HP and there is 4.5 HP from Stihl and Husky - who ya gonna trust:thumbup: Splash the cash on the Mitox and let us know how you get on:001_rolleyes:

Right - I have only changed one spark plug in a saw and that was a specialist one in my tuned 346XP - if the end is square and the gap is correct with no cracks in the insulator then no need to change it. Fuel filter after a year - unlikely but it is a cheap item so no great expense. Air filters - most are washable and dont need changing - only exception are flock/fibre ones that sometimes get past their best quicker - maybe two - three years - the nylon gauze ones last years. Diaphragm kit - highly unlikely to need replacing - I have only replaced these when they have been holed, the needle valve has been leaking or damaged or the pumping section has been distorted - most of the time a clean and set up is all that is required. £100 - I am under charging and a two stroke repair centre without a tach - they can't specialise in saws - these are the racing cars of garden machinery - yes, you can tune by ear but it is easy to lose performance and cutting speed by under cutting the max RPM and easy to tune to high if you are not aware of the "four stroking" of a two stroke and what causes it and what it means. Send it over, I am awaiting spares at the moment so can afford some time on it - carb strip and clean - tach it and off you go:thumbup:

Well said and very true:thumbup1:

Latest one on the bench - Husqvarna 394XP, it has been seized and stripped down. Looks like the bore has suffered a bit, I am in no doubt it will run but can't be sure how well until it is done and has been run for a while. The problem now is that with no aftermarket part available, we are faced with a £28 piston or a very expensive OEM Piston and cylinder - thats if you can still get an OEM P&C kit.

If you think it is then give the H screw a 1/4 of a turn counter clockwise until you can get it tached - worst you will do is to make it flub a bit on the top end and is better than seizing it:thumbup1: