spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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I have a Dolmar 114 and 123 plus that stone cutter, thats about it - the former two run but I haven't done anything to them.
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Sounds like you are back up and running Rich - good to see:thumbup:
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I do also have an old Dolmar stone cutter - not sure what model it is but it does have a spark:thumbup:
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You can also get rattles from a worn clutch - just take it off and start the saw - if the rattle has gone:thumbup: fault found! Both are common on 026/260s
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Just like your 346XP Andy:001_rolleyes:
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I have a few weapons in my armoury - just want this one to run better than it currently is - it is way behind the MS200 IMO
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The lower skirt of the piston wears and also the upper part of the piston also suffers in the same way causing the seal to be made by the rings only causing low compression - chances you have around 130psi compression - enough to get it going but little else! When the saw won't cut, do the revs drop off or soar as the chain stops - if the revs soar, it is a slipping clutch - if they drop then it will be lack of power and that may be down to wear as I have described or even a badly adjusted carb/fuel issue.
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sounds like a blocked or partially blocked fuel tank breather/vent to me!
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Personally I think if members have a chainsaw issue, they can post a new thread or just post on my thread. The "whats on my bench" thread has become the meeting place for like minded techies to chat and for help to be given, especially for longer standing members, I guess guys that haven't been on here so long probabably post new threads. It all works, I am happy it has become something worthy of comment.....cheers all:thumbup:
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That's exactly what it is but reckon the low speed jet us getting it's output condensed a bit on the way out and fouling up the idle. Will see what effect taking it out has:blushing:
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Piston slap, these saws wear their skirts thin and slap on BTDC, whip the cylinder off, check the plating isn't worn through and fit a new piston making sure you get the right diameter one.
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TBH, the price of repair doesn't seem too bad but should be tested before doing the repair - by tested I mean vaccum and pressure testing. It will prove if the seals are shot - running symptoms are the saw hanging on to revs when the throttle is shut off, the saw screaming when revved out and a higher than normal idle.
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Well one has two hours on it, the other a lot more - the older one has barely enough power to pull the chain around and then...POW, it finds its kahunas and revs like mad. Just no power off idle. I am going to try it in wood when the revs are up and see if it pulls, if it does, I will loosen the exhaust and see if it revs out a little better and drill the thing if it helps. The carb has some sort of plastic ring stuck up it on the throttle side that must stop the flow of fuel/air quite a bit - I may just see what happens if you run it with it removed - can't believe how bad these are - the 335XPT needs the revs built up a bit but these are terrible! Will see how the low hours one goes - all a learning curve:001_rolleyes:
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Just the one on the 123:lol:
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18 or 20", something like that!
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There you go - a picture paints a thousand words:thumbup:
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Picked up a couple of BG85 blowers over the weekend, thinking about porting one if I get the chance:thumbup: Been trying to sort out a couple of MS201s, seriously unimpressed with the pickup, seen more go in an arthritic pensioner:lol:
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The saw doesn't need the crankcases split as it is of non convential design. The crank case isn't vertically split making the job much easier. The cylinder sits on an upper crank and spacer, Strange design but good for you. I believe the seal forms part of the Bearing.
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Just don't let the wife at it - the U bend will be gleaming:001_rolleyes:
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TBH, I picked it up and am storing it for a mate so over to him in a week or two:lol: I guess it may have homing properties:001_rolleyes:
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It is a Sealey twin arm one for very small bores, I have tweaked it a little but it works on the ones that need it and reckon it will help new pistons bed in that bit quicker! Just need to take care on the ports as they do catch if not careful!
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I always thought it not possible but someone else said they had had success doing it so experimented with a shot cylinder and it worked OK. The Yanks use a "Soft Hone" - a bog brush made with rubber filament impregnated with carbide - that works but they are damn expensive. Just find out what works and use it:thumbup:
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Picked up a little saw for a local guy I know, it is a vintage 070 and actually looks like it is in good condition. The saw has 155psi and fired with a little carb cleaner in it so reckon it will go:thumbup: For those not aquainted with the 070 - I have put a MS200T next to it to demonstrate how big it is:lol:
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Nice one, good to see it waking up Kent:thumbup:
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You can but you take it very easy - much easier that on a cast iron liner - the ports are a bit of a pain but you adjust it so you just skim the surface, use lots of oil and do it for a short time - it will help with bedding in the new piston as it breaks the glaze. I never used to do this but have found it does give a good finish but the art is doing it ever so lightly!
