spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Mmm, a friend in need is.............a pain in the arse:lol: I am sure you will be asking many questions in the future:001_rolleyes:
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Also had an MS250 in, it would fire and run for seconds with loads of smoke, I suspected fuel contamination with diesel so changed the fuel. It then wouldnt start and on turning the saw over on it's side would piss out fuel from the air filter manifold. :thumbup:Stuck needle valve I thought so stripped the carb and yup, spot on , so cleaned the needle, resited the needle and metering arm and after a bit of messing around, it fired and ran:thumbup:
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Got two MS460s in, the first was one I had in before and expired in a big black bang - I knew the cylinder plug hole had an insert in it and it sounded like that had gone or the decomp valve had gone as it had zero compression. It was good news, the plug had simply unscrewed and poped out, The insert on my previous encounter had come loose so had sealed it back in with Loctite 270 and this was still solid:thumbup: A new plug and all is good. The other MS460 would fire but not run. Stripped the carb and found the below:001_rolleyes:
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Just remember that it isn't just about tools, kit etc, you also need an insight in to what all the engine components do and how a stroker works - I guess if you have had motorbikes you will have some knowledge of engines and the rest you will learn:thumbup:
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Not really, you are just lowering the pop off pressure that is needed to open the needle valve thus making sure the correct level of fuel is metered in to the carb. Most small carbs have very high pop off pressure and have noticed many larger ones and ld school carbs pop off much earlier! I test carbs this way but havent experimented with it as to date, I havent needed to. The Yanks tend to be quite resourceful in their approach!
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Re - the decomp, it is probably worth popping in a new one as it may be coming out too soon and causing the compression of the engine to kick - worth trying as well. You will need a long reach socket to do so - I forget the size:blushing:
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Someone will be along soon to tell you to put this on Arbtrader...just saying:thumbup:
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I have one of those pullers and it makes life easier but I got it for half the retail price:thumbup: Other than that, the screw method of extracting or even using a pointed awl on MS200Ts works well! Who is going to do your work Dave, sounds lile a little palace you are building for them:biggrin: A selection of t bars, t wrenches, long reach sockets, T27 bits, M6, M5 allen is a must. Helicoil sets in M4, M5,M6 and a damn good set of tap and dies is a godsend, you already have the US cleaner in the bag, a decent bench vice, long nose pliers, side cuters, soldering kit, a fecking big G clamp is like gold dust......we all know why:thumbup: Other than that, mallets, files, diamond files and blocks, a decent selection of containers for parts, screw drivers etc The list goes on forever. TBH, if you are just doing your own kit, you probably don't need half of this kit, if you are going to run your own money making workshop, employing someone then you will. Good luck, any questions, just ask
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The smoke will either be from too much oil or the saw running too rich. If after you have sorted the oil, it still smokes, look at the spark plug and see what colour the electrodes are! Most saws smoke from stone cold, it is just the oil not burning off but will clear when the saw gets warm!
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It could be worth trying if you have a pop off pressure gauge and a couple of spare springs - If you bugger up the spring then just fit the standard one again.
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As Barrie, my twin, says YES. If you are used to running 346XPs, 345/350 Huskys, you will know the feeling when they are stone cold, they bog on whacking the throttle open until there is a little warmth in the engine. In this case,it is normal!
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What GK said, the only thing to add is that the MS660 has a slightly different way of mounting the flywheel magnet and it isn't always obvious where it actually is. If you rotate the flywheel slowly, you will see the gap between the flywheel and coil, decrease a lot in one small 5cm area and this is where the gap needs setting. On more conventional flywheels, you will see a big block of ally both sides of the flywheel, the one with two semi polished steel type inserts in it is the magnetic one where the gap needs setting. Just make sure the flywheel spins unhindered after the gap has been set!
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The normal fix/adjustment is to open up the L screw by circa 1/8 - 1/4 turn. That should generlly fix it if it isn't a fuel system issue.
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In real terms, it is giving too little fuel at low revs, this is the prime cause of that early to mid range bogging before the high speed circuit kicks in. I know what you do to a carb to get rid of it but no idea on an autotune:confused1:
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Usually the rubber hoses that fit either side of the oil pump need replacing or a bit of a fiddle. If it is leaking without a bar on it, stick one on it and see if it stops - the tighened bar effects a clamping action on the pump:thumbup:
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Thats because the purchase tax has been paid out of the EU, you will be liable for 20% VAT and possibly a £10 handling fee - its normal:thumbdown:
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Was that you or the bike? Do they do a flabby rear end version for old-timers:lol:
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You can't beat the feeling when a non runner fires again and runs up nice:thumbup:
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In the owners defence, it was a problem whilst climbing and having started it on the ground - it was a bad kicker but not as bad as a 298XP. It is funny, I usually like a little kick once in a while, shows the saw is close to maximum advance:thumbup:
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I know this is an old thread but to draw a conclusion to the issue of an MS660 kicking back and snapping the starter out of your fingers....painfully:blushing: I had the same model in with exactly the same fault, I found that the flywheel to ignition module gap was pretty close which would have advanced the ignition slightly. I re-gapped the parts with a typical business card and it has cured the issue - this would have retarded the ignition by a degree or so and there is no sign of this painful phenomena. I will let you go back to what my suggestion was earlier in the thread:thumbup1: I know heat can affect the ignition module which is why the issue changes after the saw has been run - I draw this from a MS460 I had starting issues with - fine when cold, no spark when hot - the route cause was the flywheel ignition module gap was too large!
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Is that the operator or the saw:lol: The saws are semi pro and the biggest drawback with them is that stripping them down is a bit of a mare down to their clam style engine and cumbersome handle/airbox design. They are OK saws, not great but reasonable for semi heavy use. Probably best on an 18-20" bar. The hot smell may just be the oil or lubricant the service engineer has used. Try 10 mins hard cutting with it and see if the clutch/exhaust/top cover is smoking at all.
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Honda CB100, very reliable and boring but a good machine, never was in to two strokes in those days.......if you can believe that!
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Probably about my age, I had a 400/4 Honda with a few tricks on the engine! Those RD'S were a little crazy then they hit the YPVS on them and a 21hp 125cc bike when everyone else had 12hp, great days! The RG500 and RD500 were pretty special,not seen one for years! Perhaps we should start the Arbtalk old farts club,think Stubby will be up for it:thumbup:
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Yes, The GT380 is a three cylinder Suzuki, air cooled triple, bit of a collectors item now, they did a number of triple in different types as did Kawasaki - look up Mach3 750:blushing: The closest Yamaha was the RD400 twin!
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They are good guys, generally respond to mails in under 4 hours and will send a paypal request and ship on receipt of funds - always been very helpful plus their full kits are far cheaper than the OEM re-packed ones!
