spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Was that a pop up or a dropped gasket?
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Someone described porting as a slapping a thong on a Granny today:lol: I think a closer description would be taking the granny back in time to 21 and rearing her on steroids and prime steak:thumbup: To clarify - we take a machine that is in good running order and make sure the flow of gasses through the machine is improved, the timing sometimes changed to increase fuel/air charge, ]power band, increase compression and give a healthy saw more power. What we don't do is take a clapped out old saw, overlook bad compression and shagged bottom end then open up the ports! This would be pretty pointless!
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Sussex to Hertfordshire but most couriers do it for the same rate wherever as long as it is UK mainland, non island and not highlands!
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That is a subsidised commercial rate:thumbup:
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I love these environmental products, a bit like lead free solder, that's shocking as well, thought I couldn't solder anymore until I dug out some old stuff and bingo, perfect!
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Sounds like a fair idea, just mill the stuff off - I personally never use bio oil for this reason. If you stand your saws for a while, it also gums up your bar rails - not good IMO!
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That is a common fault - believe it is still available and is usually broken by forcing the thing in to position and ends up not being able to hold the throttle open on full choke - need one myself for the 066! Switch Shaft for Stihl 064, 066 - 1122 180 0905 | Stihl MS640/064 Chainsaw Spares
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That Bio Oil is the spawn of Satan, never has the term "sticks like Sxxt to a blanket! been more apt. I usually use a sharp craft knife to carve the stuff off, some carb cleaners help shift it but it isn't great. A damn good caustic oven cleaning gel does do it - Paint stripper also but they are nasty chemicals!
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I always do vacuum/pressure checks, strip the carb and clean it and check the tank vent - plus look at the filter on older machines when they come in seized - the saw passed all checks so have to put it down to the fuel - I tached it up to around 12,800rpm on a 20" (Max is 13,500) and all was good. Must have been dodgy fuel but glad it all worked out - thanks to GardenKit for sorting out the OEM piston - these X torq machines have few spares available apart for the ones used on the earlier machine!
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Everything was fine no leaks to vacuum or pressure and the carb was fine. I have seen it before - Probably fuel.
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It's all right Barrie, no offence taken bud - cheers again for the help on the piston - it has landed and hopefully will be back to earning money soon:thumbup:
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You will just take the piss Barrie - still smarting at the "nothing good comes out of a messy workshop" comment:sneaky2: Unfortunately the closest my workshop comes to your Valhalla is Van Halen on the radio:thumbup: The Volcano method still works for me:001_tt2:
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I think you guys are all Amal retentive:blushing: I think that one will go over many heads:001_rolleyes:
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"Holtham" is the owners name - Andy is his surname - got to know him a bit when they had a trade counter! I guess he is buying in chain from A N Other and making loops out of it!
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It is a screw mounted to the top left hand side of the oiler plate I believe. It is definitely adjustable
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Try to clean the cylinder by chemically removing the aluminium transfer - don't get clever and use a hone - you may well bugger it up. A soft hone or light hone can be used for a very short while to break the glaze and no more or just use light grit emery paper. Pistons - I don't think Meteor do them and believe Golf is the best aftermarket one you can get - use the OEM circlips in it though.
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What about Castrol R - now that really smells nice......just changing the bloody subject:lol: I will probably use up all my Stihl HP and eventually move on to a higher grade oil but have to say that some of my saws are a little.......hot and not had any issues with the oil I use so will stick with what I know. Not to say that other cheaper or no brand oils aren't as good but at least if you buy an oil manufactured by a garden equipment manufacturer or a preffered partner, you know that it has been designed for the specific use that you are going to use it for. Any thoughts on Amsoil:sneaky2:
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The chip in the bottom of the port is fine - you can smooth it a little with a diamond file and/or 180 grit then 400 grit paper just to make sure but the lower edge on the exhaust gives no port timing function - you just haev to make sure the damage doesn't snag the ring. Cleaning the squish band - just use a small wood chisel but don't go barmy. Clean the exhaust port of carbon as well - it will save it damaging the piston at a later date.
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Right, understand, I am one of those dissers My view is that the 2 stroke oil really doesn't cost much and I would rather use something that has been designed with high performance saws in mind rather than a scooter etc but understand where your mindset was:thumbup: My pants are creamless though:lol:
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It will be worth pulling the pump off and making sure the thing isn't plugged. Also make sure the pick up filter and pipe is OK and the outlet hole to bar oler channel is clear - it may save you the hassle:thumbup:
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Are you saying that the two stroke oil is less developed than four stroke sump oils or making the point that chainsaw engines are not as stressed as engines used in two stroke bike racing for instance - just trying to clarify where you are coming from:confused1: I think the point all the garden equipment techs are making is that chainsaws go through more duress than pretty much any other bit of garden two stroke equipment and are not comparing the oil used in them to something used in a TZ500 for instance:thumbup:
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Pimp my saw is coming to mind Wes:lol: Nice saw:thumbup:
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That bore looks bad - it looks like the exhaust port has wear all around it framing the port in bare aliminium plus it looks pretty scored. Difficult to always tell from images but it looks past it to me:thumbdown:
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Are you sure it hasn't lost the end of the ring where it meets the pin? 1.5mm is massive:thumbdown:
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The fuel starts to break down the properties of the oil and 3-4 weeks is a fair time before dumping the fuel in your mower etc. Damage to your saw will depend on carb setting, sort of use and how long it runs flat out but not worth taking a risk - just mix what you need for the day or few days work.
