spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Make sure you correct the original reason the saw failed in the first place otherwise it will fail again!
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Burrell usually finds zipping down both sides with a 15" is more enjoyable than using his 660 with a 2' bar:thumbup: 18" is very dooable, 20" at a push, 24" is a bit 372XP territory IMO!
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You can try it but most would put a 15" on it and let it scream through the wood:thumbup: 357s like revs and the 24" won't let it be where it is best - flatout!
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Here is mine - it has a pop up as well as being ported but they port very well IMO! PM me for cost!
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The water may have been in the fuel, it may have formed in your fuel from condensation or perhaps someone left it out in the rain:001_rolleyes: The cylinder may be salvageable - I have a 95% success rate - more info on my Whats on your bench thread. If the cylinder is OK, try to get a Meteor piston for it - they are pretty much OEM quality IMO and will give good service unlike some of the Far Eastern kit! Just make sure you know the reason for failure or give the saw the relevent checks to ensure it won't happen again!
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Ah - XXX bench porn from the west country - mine is a little more down and dirty and the bench isn't much better.
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Will do once I fix the dodgy leaking crank seal - there lies a lesson - no good porting a saw if the bottom end has a big air leak, it won't last long:thumbdown: Something I always do when porting, a vac & pressue test followed by tach tune to make sure it will last!
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Can't see it. I dont do Facebook or Twitter, all my time is spent on here:001_rolleyes: Whats it like - any good?
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Oh no, I need four of them now - thats £40:sneaky2: I need to put my prices up:001_rolleyes: Have you got a nice holder for yours Barrie - a nice oiled piece of timber with four holes in it or a more utilitarian type - a steel bracket on the wall:001_rolleyes: To add to your bad smells - the smell of a fuel tank where the fuel line has been rotted by old fuel - that smells bad. Had an egg once in my kitchen, strange smell - notied it was sweating on the outside:confused1: smashed it outside and had to go back three times to smell it as it smelt that bad:001_tongue:
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My names Barry Scott, Hydrochloric Bang......bang and the shyte is gone:thumbup:
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Do you really want a pic of your muffler mod on this thread:sneaky2: Yeah yeah, ECU - close enough unlike your exhaust:lol:
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I think that will be big no on that one, I don't believe that anything is reprogramable by the end user on this saw - it does what the manufacturers intended it to!
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Do you mean like you can chip a cars EPU
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It comes from years of practice - ask the wife:lol:
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Nothing like nice chips Jon:thumbup:
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It should result in more power but make sure you richen the carb up and then adjust so the fourstroking disappears when hard in the cut.
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I got fed up with seeing the trail of carnage:001_rolleyes: - the last one I did was out of goodwill....and the fact some scum had done his place over. I don't like seeing a grown man wield a mallet on a saw like that - unfortunately the crankcase splitters were made days after Matty needed them:lol: I think the clutch side of the crankcase Matty is talking about is OK on my scrapper, the other side is buggered!
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I am hoping Barrie will get that fed up with me, he may send me one:blushing:
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There endeth the first lesson on narrow kerf chain and cut speed:thumbup:
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You can now call yourself a man:thumbup:
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My birthday is coming up in four months Barrie - are you going to surprise me with something special for the workshop....now what do I need:confused1: I didn't mean to snap......honest - those adjusters get right up my nose - silly things - the tools are stupidly expensive as well -£10
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Aw...piss off Barrie:001_tt2: 1) I'm too tight 2) I dont like home owner saws 3) They should have fitted slotted adjusters All the above or choose the most accurate:blushing: Can we get you back on about Aspen or clean benches:lol:
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It depends what thread lock you use, use the one that allows dismantling! just do them up tight!
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If the saw has a fast idle and is holding on to revs when the throttle is closed, it may be an air leak. The carb can be adjusted with a splined adjuster but personally I take the screws out and slot them carefully as you suggest. You can get them out with the plastic part of a crimp connector:thumbup:
