spudulike

It just directs the air over the engine! ....and holds lots of crud!

Hope you cleaned inside that chain brake, it clicks nicely when you do......most don't

Had to clean the workshop floor after cleaning it, half a can of brake cleaner used on it and the compressor:001_rolleyes: Had a run of them lately - fed up with oily woodchip in my hair:thumbdown:

Today I have been cleaning manky saws, a MS200T that looks past its sell by date and a 357XP that has around 4mm of crud on all its surfaces - if this carries on I am going to start a name and shame thread:sneaky2: Not sure a little saw cleaning is top of many owners list of jobs:001_rolleyes: Grrrrrrrrrr:thumbdown:

Local surgeries can be a bit sniffy about having to register, we have had good experiences in Norfolk when the wife had a serious chest infecton and a useless response down in the West country when I was suffering. I am guessing that the local Doctors didn't know the extent of the damags to his arm and yes - that chain is mega lose and have seen the same on a few saws of weekend wariours and gardners - I always give a ten minute lesson when I see this along with pointing out what happens when a chain comes off:thumbup:

It is possible, the pressure will push fuel toward the carb and if enough, will open the needle valve. You could try leavig the fuel cap slightly loose or leaving the tank empty in hot weather.

Unusual then, I normally rub the port edges down when fitting new pistons just to make sure, not lost one to date so must be doing something right!

The tank vents often let air in but not out so if the fuel tank gets hot, the fuel expands and it forces itself past the needle valve and floods the engine - got a call on a past rebuild with similar symptoms, 10 mins on the phone and all was good:thumbup:

:lol:

Sounds like pretty much what I said - glad you are getting there:thumbup:

I used a fatter one but the problem appears to be around the impulse connector on older manifolds!

This is all a bit weird - not worked on an 08 Stihl but, without the bar and chain on, start the saw and then apply the chain brake (assuming it is the model with one) and see if the engine stalls. My thinking is one of the spacers is in the wrong place or a non standard one is too thick and the drum is locked on to the crank somehow! What happens if the chain is left pretty loose, does it help? Double check how the assembly is put together against the IPL to ensure it is correct!

I have had two right b?st$ds of saws in near history, one was an ex British Alcan MS650 with nothing on it serviceable and then this 365 Husqvarna! So far I have fitted new chain catcher, air injection Jet, kill wire and chain brake spacer. got it back together and the idle was crap and then it didn't start - the compression had dropped by 20psi to 130 and reckon the saw had old fuel oil lining the cylinder that had made a good seal and running it had then burnt it off killig the compression. New piston, compression 160psi (no base gasket:sneaky2:) Still crap idle and a further strip of the carb showed a leaking welsh plug so re-sealed it and it seemed better - just tached it and bingo - everything is now OK at long last:thumbup: This one just kept giving....................me head pain but glad it is done now:001_rolleyes: The owner said he wants it to pull a 20" bar, not surprised it wouldn't before but the hike in compression will help it do it:thumbup:

That 357 and for that matter, 345, 350, 354, 346 etc manifold connection is a bit pants IMO. it is usually difficult to get a good seal and have found either a new manifold or a very small "O" ring placed on to the small plastic impulse connector before fitting the rubber manifold will get a perfect seal. The metal clip is OK and have had issues with jubilee clips!

Before using it I would run it up at full pelt and operate the chain brake a few times. The one I had in slipped badly and had to replace it and the replacement wasn't much better.

Actual age isn't the issue, any aged person can fix saws. The thing about the 20-30 year olds of today is that most have been born in to an age where lower purchase prices of all types of product makes any sort of repair uneconomical and the usual response to my "why don't you take it apart and fix it" is, "why should I, it is only worth £30". I also find that many are just not practical and also can't apply themselves to doing any sort of repair/DIY work. I worked on my bicycle as a kid, motorcycles in my teens/early twenties, cars in my later twenties, power presses, printing presses and assembly machines in my 30s and 40s and have always had a keen engineering/mechanical interest. Many just...can't be bothered and many kids just hanker after are the latest games console, gone are the days where they make a go-cart or fix up an old moped to race on wasteland etc. There are a few younger guys with interest in mechanics but would say that it is a strong possibility that many grew up with a capable father or had an interest in motorcycles or cars at a young age! I wasn't being ageist but giving a reflection on life, you need a strong will, logical brain and interest in fixing something to be able to do it well!

Was there any porting done - just wondered if the port wasn't re-bevelled well!

The bore has some scoring but can't tell how bad, I have had some bad looking bores still make good copression and work fine for a year+ Don't keep rubbing to get rid of the score, you will produce slight cavities in the cylinder wall that will lower compression and cause blowby of exhaust gasses:thumbdown:

Good luck with that one, even wrecks pull decent money:lol:

A modified gunson lo gauge and a bicycle pump!

Good luck with that - most people need an app to live nowerdays and have no idea how an engine works:001_rolleyes:

Most modern kit is one turn out from fully in on both screws although the manual says 3/4 turns on the H screw! If the H screw is too rich, the machine won't rev as high as it should and will smoke a bit!

If you are having to run a very low idle speed to stop the saw spinning the chain on idle then the saw probably has weak clutch springs - the chain should start spinning on a semi fast idle and not on a normal 2800rpm idle. An air leak gives a variable idle speed and a tendency to hold on to revs when the throttle is released - a real bad one will make the idle impossible to bring down without running a super rich L speed setting - 2 - 2.5 turns out!

The above is fine and if the saw still runs too fast, you have done something wrong or the saw has an air leak or another issue!

Yup, damn expensive little parts! On my bench - ported 372XP needs a new piston, seized 357XP...needs a new piston and an old 365.....you've guessed it, 130psi and....needs a new piston. The 365 was weird, the piston didn't look bad, worn on the skirts but not excessivly but have very lightly honed the cylinder and will see what a new piston gives! Took a look at an MS200 that has just come in and it is a wreck....even by my standards:001_rolleyes: