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Forest2Furniture

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Everything posted by Forest2Furniture

  1. Guys, none of this playground bickering is of any use to the original poster and doesn't give an outsider a good view of our profession or those who work in it.
  2. Time spent doing research now will save you both time and money in the future. I can only advise from my experience, it's taken me 8 years to build up the timber selling side of my business and along the way I've f**ked up big time on some deals but we have to make mistakes otherwise we don't learn.
  3. You'd think so, 150 miles away from me and they still contacted me for a price
  4. I've got a 50mm thick slab of Beech 800mm wide x 2.7m long it's been air drying for about 5yrs. To be fair it'll need more then a sand to get perfectly flat as it was milled with a chainsaw mill, would make a lovely table top. Drop me a pm for price and delivery if interested.
  5. Anyone interested in the felling and milling of Walnut tree near Kings Lynn. Not a big tree, not really worth it but the customer wants it doing and we all know the customer is always right (not).
  6. Not necessarily. If you can offer a better product than them you'll get the same price. I started working life as a furniture maker (4yr apprenticeship) so have a better understanding of what other makers are looking for.
  7. It helps if you know the market you want to sell to and what it is you want to sell them. Green, air dried and kiln dried timber all have different customers, green timber is obviously easier and quicker to produce but has a limited market compared to kiln dried. Who are the people you think will be interested in your timber? Once you've worked that out, do some research into where those people are currently buying from and what they are paying.
  8. Yep, just maybe. It's been a big learning curve, we all go through them from time to time. It's a list of problems from start to finish, they've been down a year, the area they were lifted to was too wet to get on from September last year, then I injured my ankle and now we have this virus doing the rounds and no one to lend a hand and the only one that offered wants more timber as payment then his time was worth. As I don't do and don't want to get into the firewood market, I've contacted a mate to take what's left off my hands, I'll probably lose on the deal but I've got stacks of nice hardwood waiting to be milled, I'll stick to what I know in future.
  9. That's delivered, I'm not running a charity. First time I've done Larch, won't be having it again to much work for little return. One bloke and a pile of logs, I'd been better off cutting it into firewood then milled timber but nothing ventured nothing gained, at least I've covered the cost of buying it.
  10. First half of an order for 36 Larch sleepers loaded and ready for delivery. They're to be used to make raised veg beds for a wheelchair user.
  11. I'm milling Larch sleepers at at the moment, got 36 going out to Newark this weekend, raised beds for disabled lady. The problem with treated ones is they leach the chemical in to the soil and then into whatever your growing. Never thought of milling my sweet chestnut for sleepers, it all goes into milled boards for the furniture makers
  12. Depends what it's clamping onto, anything upto 8mm
  13. Thanks. Not sure what current prices are but I paid £90/ton for Ash last year, just offered a local estate £70/ton (not big diameter) for Oak and had that turned down, say they get better return putting it through the biomass! Don't get much Cherry, Beech I try to keep clear of, having said that I've noticed the local golf coarse I buy from are building up a nice stack of Beech trunks for me!
  14. Price often depends on where you are in the country and what it is you're after, hardwood or softwood. Most tree surgeons will sell by the ton as they will fell for firewood.
  15. It won't do any harm sealing again with thinned down pva, the stickers should be no more then 16"-18" apart. Most of your stacks look ok apart from the one at the front that could do with 4 stickers not 3, apart from that all looking nice and tidy.
  16. I've run my mill on the Woodlands type trailer for the 3.5+yrs and most if not all the places I mill for my own use is on farms or estates never in a forest. So, thinking the ifor trailer a wiser move, thinking of putting another pair of ifor screw jacks on the front to match those on the back or use the side lift jacks I have on the current mill trailer.
  17. Get the boards sticked out as soon as possible after milling, in a dry well ventilated covered area. Stack the thinner boards at the bottom with thicker ones on top and stack high, the mistake a lot of people make is to only stack one logs worth of planks, that's not enough weight to keep the boards flat. Seal the ends of the boards to stop them drawing up more moisture. The photo below shows a stack of recently milled Oak planks, the stack is about 6' high.
  18. Yep, straight away. It was good advice so why not, don't need the Larch moving unnecessarily
  19. Thanks for the tip, certainly useful on the Larch, stops the movement.
  20. Those battens are to thick, I wouldn't use anything thicker than 25mm, ideally 18mm and make sure it's the untreated roof battens otherwise it will mark the timber. I dry all my timber in an open sided barn and to date after 15 years I've never had to band my timber to keep it flat unless it's softwood such as Larch
  21. I've got a stack of Larch ones in stock but probably to far for you
  22. Mine is currently on a box frame trailer and you still have to level it, all trailers will flex.
  23. I'm considering putting the mill onto an ifor williams flatbed that way I can bring home wood I've milled.

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