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Forest2Furniture

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Everything posted by Forest2Furniture

  1. Forest2Furniture
    I rip gown old floorboard into square strips, never had a problem with staining. The general of thumb is to use a timber that is softer then the one you're stacking. But whatever you use don't do what a client of mine did and use tanadised roofing lats!
  2. Forest2Furniture
    I will Jonathan when I get more sticks machined up! I figured the few I put in were better then none at all and yes you are supposed to stick once milled but as Rob said, in an ideal world. Turns out most of these planks are olive ash, with some fantastic colours.
  3. Forest2Furniture
    I've just bought a sauno wood drying kiln from these guys, slightly cheaper then from logosol and they picked the phone up. Sauno Wood Kiln I know they had a new delivery last week but think they may sold out again, worth talking to. The guy I spoke to was Alex
  4. Forest2Furniture
    I built my own kiln, if you want any advice or tips pm me
  5. Forest2Furniture
    Thanks Treemoose, I get a bit obsessive when it comes to 'sticking out' to the point where I end up having to work on my own!
  6. Forest2Furniture
    I've had a solar kiln for the last 8 years but with the lack of sun we get in this country I'm after something a bit quicker and more reliable so I was thinking of getting one of these. Do you air dry your timber before going in the kiln or straight from green, and how long does it take to dry a batch?
  7. Forest2Furniture
    Finally got around to sticking out the Ash boards I milled last year, considering they have been stacked as milled for the last few months there was no evidence of rot to be seen.
  8. Forest2Furniture
    I've only found one nail in the 3 trees I've done so far, all 4 trees were less then 50' away from a tree that was hit by a bomb during WWII
  9. Forest2Furniture
    I milled 3 london planes 18 months ago in Notting Hill, I'vegot one remaining , the biggest at 54" diameter 12.5' long. I plan to quarter saw it on site as there is no way of getting it out.
  10. Forest2Furniture
    Can't go wrong buying from Rob, very helpful chap.
  11. Forest2Furniture
    You can't mill and use the timber immediately regardless of what finish you put on it, even timber for garden furniture has to air dry for a while. Unless you're using the timber for green woodwork, in which case you can but that would only be small pieces. I know a lot of spoon carvers and none of them will touch laburnum, when worked green it gives off an aroma that causes light headedness and head aches, when worked dry the sawdust can cause skin irritation and breathing problems.
  12. Forest2Furniture
    I'm thinking of building a new drying kiln has anyone had experience of Sauno VT 3 systems? Sauno Wood Kiln VT3, 2 kW | LOGOSOL
  13. Forest2Furniture
    I make a lot of furniture from sweet chestnut, lovely timber to work with. Easy to machine and sand, finishes well.
  14. Forest2Furniture
    Nice looking stack of boards. It doesn't look like he's using any wedges as he cuts to hold the board up which would account for the slow progress.
  15. Forest2Furniture
    I've milled 170 cubic foot of sweet chestnut so far this year and the only stuff that has split had a crack in the trunk to start with. It's part of a floor board job and I know Big J and others suggested getting a mill in to do the job but all the trees are in inaccessible areas of the woodland and with chainsaw mill running so sweet it's not been to bad a job.
  16. Forest2Furniture
    Some of the 17 Sweet Chestnut boards I milled earlier this week. The tree was felled last Saturday and milling started Monday. I've done three 8' long sections so far with another three to do next week.
  17. Forest2Furniture
    I cut 17 boards 8' long 16" wide of sweet chestnut on Monday in just over 2 hours using a winch mounted mill. Once tried you won't go back.
  18. Forest2Furniture
    I started off with a 660 and 36" bar but that was to slow and knackering, then moved to an 880, the solid nose stihl supplied is no good for milling so bought a 42' sugi from Rob, nice bit of kit. I've just had to buy a new 880 as the old one blew the spark plug out and although it can be repaired I needed a saw straight away. Once the old one is repaired my next investment will be a double ended bar off Rob using both 880's. I keep the 660's with 26" bars for small logs or cutting up, that size bar makes a well balanced saw.
  19. Forest2Furniture
    Thanks guys, that all sounds better then replacing the pot & piston. So, if I get it stripped down is there anyone on here who would do it or point me in the right direction of which kit and where to get it from.
  20. Forest2Furniture
    Whilst milling some oak yesterday my 880 blew the spark plug out, anyone got an idea what may have caused this to happen. Looks like it's stripped the first row of threads in the block as well.
  21. Forest2Furniture
    Nice tree, I'd be interested but can only offer to mill on site no means of transporting such a lump.
  22. Forest2Furniture
    I sold a dining table in sweet chestnut at an exhibition a few years ago for just over £4k but it was solid all over with hand cut mortise. & tenons. The UK market in general don't appreciate handmade quality the want cheap and they want it now!
  23. Forest2Furniture
    I'm not a great fan of the solid nose, puts a huge strain on the engine especially if you're milling wide boards. I stopped using my 47" stihl for milling and bought a 46" bar with nose sprocket from Rob, much better set up now.
  24. Forest2Furniture
    Big J your advice is always welcome and greatly valued. Rob, I feel getting the logs out of the wood and onto the mill will be the biggest issue which is why I've always stuck to the alaskan. Thanks to everyone for the advice
  25. Forest2Furniture
    I don't want to do Rob out of some business but by the nature of what we all do, what's wrong with cutting some wedges out of scrap wood, it's easy, cheap and they're biodegradable.

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