blazer

still got my '59' badge - somewhere:thumbup1:

Hard to tell with saws, more on work done than years but if it has good compression and runs ok it sounds like a 'goodun' I brought my old 266XP from a guy 100miles away. I let him start it but it would go (hi tickover catch not on) - then it did, I wanted him to run it with me standing back and listen to the motor - sounded ok (from his pulse rate the compression was ok). the bar was worn, some parts changed as a truck had backed over it, I changed a few more, without getting technical. Now it runs 'brill' really good saw, when using it it feels like a new saw it's that good. I downloaded a parts list as some parts also fit different saws eg, alot of 266 parts also fit a 61, so it may be the same for your saw, as many models are not supported. I used Greenstripe but I need to know any other Husky spares suppliers.

Like the Toyota Tundra - real monster, I have a friend who has one - useless on our bendy muddy tracks but it's the 'man-points' image he's after, how can I put it without being rude, 'for the man who opens both double garage doors to wheel his bike out' From the response there must be a demand both in Arb and farming, for a more basic tough pickup without all the modern car frills. So if Toyota imported the LC70 and Isusu pickups with a bit more bling could supply the lets say urban users

That's the one, just found them on 'toyota saudi arabia' the LC70 pickup and the FJ Cruiser is the hatchback. I alos looked on 'toyota Austrailia' they have the FJ Cruiser listed but toyota aus is on strike at the moment:sneaky2: It seams Toyota has set models for different countries but if they are not tried here then knowbody gets a chance to try them - pity:confused1:

They are not that big - I can't find the model I'm looking for, just look on 'news @10' with the NTC in Libya, they have higher cabs. If imported I can see a problem putting a pair of 20mm cannons down on my firearms cert:lol:

From the ones I have seen they are different with a simular appearance to a landy with older Jeep type front wings but bigger and tougher, used alot in South America and many countries with dirt roads - will try and find the model.

Spud often mentions a leak in the flexible connection between the cylinder and the carb. If it hasn't do it before it could be that or any of the normal checks; fuel filter, etc.

I have often wondered why Toyota don't import the tough pickups like the later J40 into the UK. I've been in plenty on site work in central Brazil in the early 70's they always looked tougher than a landy, which many Brazilians claimed wasn't tough enough for their potholed roads in the remote areas. Recently seen in Libya with the NTC, they have larger wheels just tougher than normal pickups and ideal to me for arb work, no fancy seats and carpet - just 100% 'man truck'

I need to change the centre propshaft bearing on my 03 L200, so I need to strip a U/J to access the bolt. It's one of these Jobs I haven't done before, so I would be very gratefully for a few tips. Many thanks in advance:thumbup1:

I've used 'Greenstripe' for Husky spares for my 266xp.

Butt and chin clear but belly still touching:blushing:

A while ago I posted a problem with a MS280 ignition problem and later a starting problem with a FS100 which again turned out to be the electronic ignition unit. Measuring both units with a DVM on the LT side they both gave a reading of +2M ohms both ways, whereas the new units gave a reading of say +6Kohms, so any unit that give a 2 meg ohm reading is faulty. Both units are 10 yrs old with light'ish use, I'm not moaning about Stihl products but it may help with anybody with a simular fault to check the low tension side of the ignition units, both units are slightly different so I couldn't swop to test. The symptoms were simular the MS280 kept cutting out or would run for a while then cut, suggesting a blocked carb but then it ran for 30 sec and died - no spark. The brushcutter was a sod to start but ran ok but still had a weak spark, so again I thought it was a carb problem. Both units are now starting first time and running well:thumbup1:

overheard in a factory yrs ago. 'do you have a rule I could borrow'? Yep, don't lend any fluffer your tools

Sorry but couldn't help having the idea of students learning hand signals by using 'flash cards'. I think it needs a practical group to get together and work it out in a wood not a meeting room, then you could try them out and discuss at the same time. Just an idea. When I worked overseas I couldn't speak the language but given a practical crew we always worked out a signal code, the key part is for me the relationship between crane operator and loader.

For me 1/tap helmet = crane boom. Ok I come from a heavy engineering background but am suprised by the lack of signals. You can't use radios in a noisy ships engineroom - so it must be hand signals. When I worked in a large factory, the maintenace gang for safety would put their own driver in the overhead crane cab, and only one guy would give signals. The hardest bit of crane operating I have seen was in drydock with a dockyard crane lowering a heavy load into the engineroom of a oiltanker, so the operator couldn't see, so we had a signal guy by the funnel. Hand signals were used to change a ships prop - very exacting work, so why no treework. I used to supervise erection gangs in the UK and overseas, so working in central Brazil on Hyrdo dams it was a sort of international hand signals but it worked. Lifting procedures and ratings are everything the HSE would have a field day if there was no cordinated system following an accident if they asked a 'groundie' to ID the load ratings and signals.

Good point the back of an axe is there as a counterbalance not a hammer, in the past it was often forgewelded on, many new axeheads are cast. If used as a wedge hammer it's the wrong steel against steel combination which will splinter and possibly send out fragments with a risk of eye injury. Old wedges/chisels with 'mushroom tops' are so hard they risk braking off fragments, best to grind the mushroom off and the top of the wedge. Out of interest 'nail hammers' clawheaded are extra hard and are for nails only, or they could splinter.

Cut up a pile of old dry wood with my new 460 and the 'black' airfliter was full of dust on top but totally clean inside so worked well. Just brushed off excess when still on saw then blow off the rest with the filter removed.

I have a bit of a selection of both mauls and splitting axes - the axes are set at different angles, so on some wood a 5lb axe is more effective than an 8lb maul. Both mauls have fibreglass shafts the older 'black forest type' has a shaved down fibreglass pick handle this totally changes to vibs coming up the shaft. The axes are of the very old english forged heads with wooden shafts plus a few modern axes with fibreglass shafts. I find using a selection really saves energy when splitting all day:thumbup1:

Be carefull using 'airline's on clothes whilst wearing them - loadsa regs on this one. OK I have done it many times just keep the nozzle well away from skin. Glad I'm not the only one using these masks, although I use mine to filter CO fumes working in low air-flow situations but communication can be a problem.

I had depression as a kid - family inter-wars with me in the middle. It came out again when my 1st marriage failed very draining - pills don't work. I had work related stress from excessive hospital work pressure + probs at home so was off work for 6 months 10 yrs ago, in the end you have to work through it, I found solace in the woods - there is very little help. The 'trick' is to identify the problems and act. The good side now sorted I can spot symptoms in others like when my son was in primary school and 'bullied' by a teacher, the same problem you are trapped in a situation and need a way out, so we moved schools and he picked up to normal. One problem for leading to stress situations is as 'hard working' types we tend to take on too much, if I start to have sleep probs I know it's time to act. I now try to plan jobs to have a 'start-middle-end' to avoid overlap and reversed the old contractor saying of 'think of a price and double it', I now 'think of a time and double it' this gives me an over run allowance. So you do the same job finish at the same time but feel alot better.

Swedish Stovax for me - freezing up there so they must be good. We spend our winter nights by our Stovax listening to Abba CD's:laugh1: We have a Stovax Sherraton for say 12 yrs runs most of the winter at peak cold we can use 5 large baskets of logs per day, needs a few spares after the winter but most pleased with it. They or others in there range will run back boilers.

rear leaf truck springs can break in low temps - common in Russia.

I have been asked to trim back a Blue Spruce in a garden about 25 ft high, not too happy with the idea. As I'm not sure how the tree will react - sprout more growth on the tips or die back. If it was my own I would wait untill it got too big and chop it down, or take the risk and cut it back but for somebody else who has no idea about trees, they can get a bit upset - like the Japanese lady did once:blushing:. I was asked by a very polite Japanese lady to cut out the lower branches of an oak tree in the garden, lots of bowing and smiles but in the lack of english and lots of arm waving she really meant the upper braches - she came out of the house like some 'demented Ninga Warrior' time for a sharp exit:001_huh:

I have seen alot of well trimmed conifer hedges and shaped free standing with large brown patches but some new green growth:confused1: Is this caused by frost damage, being cut back too much, or sick in some way; fungus or infection. I don't have any in my garden but am often asked what should be done about them, cut them down or leave to see what happens. Thanks in advance:thumbup1:

If it's running ok why touch it but if you feel the need - just turn each screw clockwise untill it stops and note how far it goes - then turn it back to the same position to find the setting. Mufflers are more important on a 2stroke then any 4 stroke as the provide some back pressure to help volumetric efficency, as any moped rider knows more noise often equalls less power. I have had no probs with most of my saws, just the little ms170 lost power caused by the muffler chocking up.