rotax81

it should have one idle screw and 2 mixture screws. failing adjustment it may need a new carb kit, even though the old one might look ok.

i went up to 18" from 15" on my husky and got a small 14" McCulloch for the little jobs. that combination works fine for what i do and a do swop between them a lot during a day.

i would say its either the high speed jet setting, blocked exhaust or fuel breather. could be any of the answers above though

it could be a number of things. best to smell it somehow to see if it is burning oil. blue smoke can also be caused by worn pump, injectors and pump timing. my VW transporter has always smoked a light blue from cold especially if i let it idle and warm up while i have a brew. taking its age into account i would keep an eye on the oil level and just use it until it fails an mot, then sort it/bin it

ouch!!!!

i have only rebuilt about 4 or 5 saws, it was kart engines (some are a very similar setup to saws) and motocross engines.. all the same old dirty 2 stroke at the end of the day though

dry bearings when assembled isnt really a problem, within the first couple of turns there is sufficient oil. 2 strokes need very little. if they replaced the crank then it was either the big end that failed or a main bearing siezed, ruining the crank. so it was either the big end pressed too tight on assembly, the tolerance on the conrod was not right or what i have seen in the past, the oilway to the main bearing was obstructed. i have rebuilt many 2 strokes in the past, some were revving over 21,000rpm and were ok as long as the tolerances were spot on and the right oil was used. i never tried one after dropping it out of a tree though

the piston, rings and bore would have been the first to suffer with no oil. i would imagine it had a crank fault to begin with.

im as dry as a nuns crutch you have a face like a burst sofa you have a face like a dropped pie she has a fa**y like a torn pocket

it sounds like you need to take the gearbox apart. you either have a broken pin or a dodgy clutch but my guess would be the pin. i take them apart regularly and re-grease them, they last a lifetime. for the blades i use spray grease or motorcycle chain lube. (not the dry stuff)

always best to strip the plastics off and have a look. something is loose/cracked worn. not too clued up on stihl but check the crankcase around the mounting points.

i use one of them electric £30 jobs from ebay. 220W Bench Mounted Chainsaw Grinder Chain Saw Sharpener on eBay (end time 06-Sep-10 16:21:13 BST) once you get the hang of it, its a doddle. i have 4 or 5 spare chains for both saws, when im on my last pair i sharpen the lot in about an hour, they then last me ages

it can only be your decision. i personally would get a new one and keep a spare as someone already mentioned. tarting an old one up will always be a hit and miss affair regarding reliability. its ok getting new seals, piston etc but imo its always best as a back up saw as there are many other parts on it that can deteriorate. a bit like hanging on to an old car and constantly repairing it. get yerself a new toy

a bit obvious but have you tried a new plug? (new and not a cleaned one) coils normally pack in completely or pack in when they get hot

i would use 5 to 6 inches of topsoil then turf it. 2" of hardcore will not make a difference to trucks passing over it, it will need way more than that if there is a possible chance in the future.