Big J

I'm not sure how it's possible for it to be cheaper than the price quoted to me. I worked out the payments versus the new cost of the vehicle and the end price, and the percentage interest over the 5 year period is so low it's laughable. Unfortunately, perhaps, the vehicle is already ordered though, so I think that any such alternative arrangements will have to wait until the next time

Strange that 6th gear screws things up - you would have thought that a lower RPM would improve the efficiency!

Beautiful work there mate - stunning lines on the legs, and very nice proportionally.

The quoted MPG, versus actual MPG are interesting. It seems that on all the car reviews, they give you the test MPG, and it's invariably much lower than the manufacturers figure. In my mind, the biggest factor determining MPG is driving style. I've been in many a vehicle with many a driver who accelerates hard, brakes late and doesn't know how to use a gearbox. Consequently, they pay at the pump. As anyone who knows me well enough will attest, I have a bit of an OCD for numbers, and find the calculations and figures regarding economy and speed fascinating. The reason why the Navara doesn't do too well on fuel is it's drag coefficient (0.46 - compared to 0.26 to 0.30 for many cars). It's heavy, but then so are most modern cars, and their efficiencies are much better. I've got a Navara coming at the end of the month, so it will be interesting to see what's possible to get out of it. Obviously, you have a period at the start where the economy is lower due to the engine 'bedding in', but I bet you all a groat I can get 40mpg out of it on a run! A roads are the best for general economy I find. Motorways are too quick, and the air resistance kills the economy. For instance, in an old Volvo 850 tdi I used to have, 60mph would get you 60mpg (shown on computer, but backed up at pump) but 90mph would get your 31mpg. Jonathan

I've just gone for a Nissan Navara on Lease Finance. These are the main bullet points, if you like: * Nissan Navara with added extras of canopy, load liner, all terrains, tow bar, reversing sensors for £293 a month plus VAT * Final balloon payment of £5600 at the end of the 5 year lease, which is comfortably less than 100k 5 year old examples are going for at present (with the extras, it's a £25k vehicle). * Three ways to sort the balloon payment out at the end. Either the lease company takes it back, and sells it (and you pick up the profit or shortfall), you sell it (and pickup the profit or shortfall) or you sell it to a third party who can then sell it back to you (same deal with profit or shortfall). * No mileage restriction, no clauses for condition of the vehicle in the end as it's in your interest, financially speaking, to look after the vehicle. * Fully qualifies for tax relief (for those who aren't VAT registered) and you can claim the VAT back each month if you are. * Ended up working out cheaper than running the old vehicles we've always had, especially when you factor in lost earnings due to repairs/MOTs etc. Truck will be delivered before the end of the month, and I must say that I am very excited! Jonathan

I was thinking that, and it is on my list of questions for Monday! Blaisey - no probs!

Having seen the Logosol M7 (my neighbour has one that I don't think he's ever used!), I was wondering how many folk here have experience of static chainsaw mills, and how they compare to Alaskan-style mills. I'm currently chatting to a chap at TCF engineering about this mill: Home - TCF Engineering I've been looking at it with passing interest for months on Ebay, and have been thinking more and more lately of the advantages that a chainsaw bar and chain has over smaller bandsaws: * completely flat and level cut * no degradation of finish when the chain starts to blunten * chain can easily be sharpened whilst on mill Obviously speed of cut and kerf are the main issues, but quality of board is very important to me. Alaskans cut superbly, except for if they skip or jump a little, in which case you can get scoring. If the bar is locked into a frame, it can't possibly do that. Chatting to Tim at TCF, he reckons he gets around twice the cutting speed with this mill as opposed to a freehand chainsaw mill, but the main difference is that he can mill all day without fatigue. I'm pretty able to mill about 50 cubic foot a day with the Alaskan, but reckon that would jump to close to 150 with this mill as I wouldn't need to take as many breaks. I'm not exactly sure what point I'm trying to make, but I suppose I was wanting to gauge opinion on it before going any further. I'm trying to change my supply of timber slightly to more predominantly forest grown stuff, so a fixed mill is ideal for the more uniform logs that I'll be getting. Jonathan

Get the 13!!!! I have an MS260, originally bought with a 15 inch bar. Fairly recently got myself a 13 inch bar and now feel that the 15 is cumbersome and slow. Honesty, you don't need any more than that for general thinning and forestry work. Thursday and Friday this week I was thinning 60-70ft sycamore with 12-18 inch DBH with the 13 inch bar and never felt the need for anything bigger. To anyone who would say that the short bar slows you down, I would counter with 41 tonnes of thinnings!

It's a digression, but I'm starting to feel the need for a mid sized saw and looking at the specs, there is nothing to choose between the MS441 and the 576XP. Not wanting to turn this into another Stihl versus Husqvarna debate, is there a clear choice? Additionally, does anyone have a good 70cc ish used saw they want to flog?

Thanks for that chaps! Brushcutter - I have come across those little green balls on occasion in cherry, but they don't seem to devalue the boards too badly. I hadn't expected to find any cherry at all, and when I stumbled across these two monsters in one corner on the site, I was delighted! Cherry seems to grow very well here - the estate I usually work on and know much better has dozens of huge specimens dotted around the woods. Adam - they were all the things I had considered might be issues for timber with sap in it. Wetter isn't too much of an issue - they will just be in the kiln for a touch longer. Mould should be OK too, as I treat my timber with an anti-fungal agent. It's staining that I'm most concerned about generally. Regarding ring barking - I've never been a fan actually, but I guess it does serve a purpose.

I work for a couple of different estates, and am paid by the hour. It is commercial forestry stands that we work in predominantly, though occasionally it is the shoot that funds our felling. I only work in hardwoods (IainArkle on here would call me a wuss - I would counter that I am sensible!) but really enjoy what I do. We tend to work in fairly unproductive stands, rarely able to fell enough to warrant a tonnage rate. That said, started doing a bit of work for a new estate today and they put me in a doddle of a sycamore stand. 6 1/2 hours later, 21 tonnes were down and sectioned so sometimes I do wish I wasn't on hourly! I don't work in forestry full time (I usually split my week 3 days forestry, 2 days sawmilling), but I have far more work that I can handle. Jonathan

Thanks for the continued help lads - David I might just give you a call when I've got my act together to sort the splitter project out. I've been run ragged by mental amounts of work lately, so non-essential projects have been put on hold for the time being. Jonathan

Hi all, Wondering what your experiences have been for felling hardwoods out of season. I've been offered timber from a lovely semi mature stand of beech, oak, ash and cherry. Amply sufficient to fill my next kiln - 70 to 80 year old trees, 18-22 inches DBH (bandsawmill perfect too) with no branching at all. Anyway, we are past the traditional season for felling hardwoods, and was wondering what effect this would have on the timber if it were felled around now (next week most likely). I realise sycamore is prone to staining if felled in spring or summer, which is why I'm not considering it, but the remainder would be brilliant (especially the cherry - 20 inch DBH and 20-30ft of good sawlog!). Thanks in advance! Jonathan

I enjoyed planting last year - not doing any quantity of it this year though Worked best for us in a production line fashion. There were two of us working, so one would put the stakes in, the other would knock them in. Then one would lay out the plants, the other would plant. Then one would lay out the tubes, the other would afix them to the stakes. We were planting newbies, but still managed a little over 200 per person per day on difficult sites.

Hehe - looks like classic potential for a stunt fell! Wizz up the tree, take off the branches and straight fell the stem with a line on it if needs be Nice video though - stunning location.

If it would make you feel better, I could call you stupid. That said I fear it might have dire consequences for me - your daughter looks sinister in those glasses, like she knows people who know people who could mess me up!

Firstly you will need a felling licence. It might well be a little tricky to obtain if you are planning to clearfell the site without any plans to replant. I'm no expert though, so I might be wrong. Secondly, you shouldn't have any issues selling the timber, whether as cordwood or split. For maximum return I'd split as much as possible and hold onto it until seasoned. Sell the pine at 80% of the price of the birch. I think that the best way to make the most from any section of woodland is to sell final product where possible. Why sell at £35-40 a tonne when the final split, dried product is worth £160 a tonne (based on green weight and volume). Much of the product will be processor perfect - hire one in on a day rate! Just ideas, but it's something I would consider in your position.

An 18 inch bar is much too much for a 250. I used to run a 15inch bar on my 260 until recently buying a 13. Now the 15 feels stupidly long and underpowered. You would be amazed the difference a short bar makes - I would bet it would make the saw a good deal more economical too.

Pictures 10 and 11 - new NPTC unit on 'Gob' cuts beckons? I'll stop now.......

Oh good God that's grim! Pop the saw on Ebay without cleaning it up - 'One Stihl chainsaw, covered in Sperm..........whale'

This afternoon I felled, sned and ringed up (to 6-9 inches) 6 cubic metres of sycamore. Only two trees though. I used about 5 tanks of fuel and oil with an MS260. So, around 0.4 litres of fuel and 0.2 litres of chain oil a cube. And I must admit that I didn't go nuts on sharpening the chain (running a 13 inch bar, with most stuff at or below bar length, with the first 6 foot being double bar length). I think you are using too much fuel for the job in hand. I would argue that it might well be the MS250 that is at fault. I had one, which I used for thinning for about two months before swapping it for the MS260. It was just very poor, with the oiler never working fully and the AV mounts falling to pieces. Pop the 250 on Ebay and get an MS261. Or, if you are going to be doing firewooding as opposed to thinning, get an MS361/MS362. Bit more grunt and not much more weight. Jonathan

Haha! Not having a jibe - just correcting for the original poster. I do know what you mean though - today is my first day off in 19 days!

You'll be selling logs by the m3 (volume), not m2 (area). Prices seem to vary hugely by area. The figure stated above sounds about right though

I've finally decided to give up on old vehicles and I'm lease purchasing a pickup. After much research and reading, I'm going for a Nissan Navara, and on paper, it seems the best choice. Best MPG, highest engine power, cheapest, largest inside and out and seemingly pretty tough. I'll reserve judgement until I've had it a while, but pretty excited about getting it. I am in agreement with some of the sentiments here regarding the L200 - it really is butt fugly! Jonathan

I'd forgotten about that! I don't think that I've ever had a week of work cause me so many scratches and cuts.